Some questions about flea infestation

[Suki]

We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the
following questions so we can combat the problem?:

1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that cat/dog
fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this
true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas? Since
we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die
out on their own.

2. Is Borax toxic to humans?

3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?

Thanks in advance.

[Leigh Menconi]

"Suki" > wrote in message
...
> We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the
> following questions so we can combat the problem?:
>
> 1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that
cat/dog
> fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this
> true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas?
Since
> we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die
> out on their own.

AFAIK, fleas are fleas. The ones that rode in on my brother's dog may have
preferred dog blood, but they feasted on me nonethless.
>
> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?

Not that I know of but I have heard that it's very bad for cats.
>
> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?

Don't know on this one. I can recommend that you repeat whatever you do
about 2 1/2 weeks later because the flea life-cycle is about 3 weeks. Then
you'll catch the ones that hatched after the first application but before
they reproduce. We always had much better luck with the chemicals from the
vets office than anything else.

Leigh in raLeigh


>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>

[Leigh Menconi]

"Suki" > wrote in message
...
> We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the
> following questions so we can combat the problem?:
>
> 1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that
cat/dog
> fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this
> true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas?
Since
> we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die
> out on their own.

AFAIK, fleas are fleas. The ones that rode in on my brother's dog may have
preferred dog blood, but they feasted on me nonethless.
>
> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?

Not that I know of but I have heard that it's very bad for cats.
>
> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?

Don't know on this one. I can recommend that you repeat whatever you do
about 2 1/2 weeks later because the flea life-cycle is about 3 weeks. Then
you'll catch the ones that hatched after the first application but before
they reproduce. We always had much better luck with the chemicals from the
vets office than anything else.

Leigh in raLeigh


>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>

[Leigh Menconi]

"Suki" > wrote in message
...
> We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the
> following questions so we can combat the problem?:
>
> 1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that
cat/dog
> fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this
> true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas?
Since
> we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die
> out on their own.

AFAIK, fleas are fleas. The ones that rode in on my brother's dog may have
preferred dog blood, but they feasted on me nonethless.
>
> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?

Not that I know of but I have heard that it's very bad for cats.
>
> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?

Don't know on this one. I can recommend that you repeat whatever you do
about 2 1/2 weeks later because the flea life-cycle is about 3 weeks. Then
you'll catch the ones that hatched after the first application but before
they reproduce. We always had much better luck with the chemicals from the
vets office than anything else.

Leigh in raLeigh


>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>

[SlinkyToy]

I once had horrible fleas. I got some basic flea powder at the store
and dosed all the rugs. I took bedding to the laundry and ran it
through boil/bake. Clothing was bagged for 2 weeks and I only wore
things that could be boiled and baked. I vacuumed twice a day and put
snipped-up flea collars in the vacuum bags, which I burned on a daily
basis.

At the end of two weeks I was flea-free. Had to treat the cats for
tapeworm subsequently...

[SlinkyToy]

I once had horrible fleas. I got some basic flea powder at the store
and dosed all the rugs. I took bedding to the laundry and ran it
through boil/bake. Clothing was bagged for 2 weeks and I only wore
things that could be boiled and baked. I vacuumed twice a day and put
snipped-up flea collars in the vacuum bags, which I burned on a daily
basis.

At the end of two weeks I was flea-free. Had to treat the cats for
tapeworm subsequently...

[SlinkyToy]

I once had horrible fleas. I got some basic flea powder at the store
and dosed all the rugs. I took bedding to the laundry and ran it
through boil/bake. Clothing was bagged for 2 weeks and I only wore
things that could be boiled and baked. I vacuumed twice a day and put
snipped-up flea collars in the vacuum bags, which I burned on a daily
basis.

At the end of two weeks I was flea-free. Had to treat the cats for
tapeworm subsequently...

[Pete]

Hi Suki,

There are many types of fleas, Non of them inhabit man exclusively.
Flea bodies are designed to live on a particular host animal by grabbing
onto the fur. Fleas will bite people ( as you have already experenced)
but will not live on a person. Fleas have four stages of develpoment.
Egg, larve, Pupa, and adult. When a pupa hatches it will feed on any
warm blooded animal( you and me included.)

Boric acid is a stomach poison that works by being ingested. If you
ingest enough of it you will be sick. Some people think that its
dessicant qualities effect flea development but it is a more common
theroy that flea larva eat the boric acid and it kills them.

The boric acid can attack an adult fleas outer cutical and kill it but
it is not the most efficent method of control.

If you have a pet, most of the spot on treatments can solve your
problem. fleas like to stay ont he host so by treating the animal you
can eventually control all of the fleas. Without an animal your best
recoures is to use a product that attacks as many stages of flea
development as possible. Vaccum regularly, find a product to apply
directly to your homes floor that is both an adluticide and has a growth
inhibiting hormone to control further development.

Suki wrote:

> We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the
> following questions so we can combat the problem?:
>
> 1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that cat/dog
> fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this
> true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas? Since
> we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die
> out on their own.
>
> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?
>
> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>

[Pete]

Hi Suki,

There are many types of fleas, Non of them inhabit man exclusively.
Flea bodies are designed to live on a particular host animal by grabbing
onto the fur. Fleas will bite people ( as you have already experenced)
but will not live on a person. Fleas have four stages of develpoment.
Egg, larve, Pupa, and adult. When a pupa hatches it will feed on any
warm blooded animal( you and me included.)

Boric acid is a stomach poison that works by being ingested. If you
ingest enough of it you will be sick. Some people think that its
dessicant qualities effect flea development but it is a more common
theroy that flea larva eat the boric acid and it kills them.

The boric acid can attack an adult fleas outer cutical and kill it but
it is not the most efficent method of control.

If you have a pet, most of the spot on treatments can solve your
problem. fleas like to stay ont he host so by treating the animal you
can eventually control all of the fleas. Without an animal your best
recoures is to use a product that attacks as many stages of flea
development as possible. Vaccum regularly, find a product to apply
directly to your homes floor that is both an adluticide and has a growth
inhibiting hormone to control further development.

Suki wrote:

> We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the
> following questions so we can combat the problem?:
>
> 1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that cat/dog
> fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this
> true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas? Since
> we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die
> out on their own.
>
> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?
>
> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>

[Pete]

Hi Suki,

There are many types of fleas, Non of them inhabit man exclusively.
Flea bodies are designed to live on a particular host animal by grabbing
onto the fur. Fleas will bite people ( as you have already experenced)
but will not live on a person. Fleas have four stages of develpoment.
Egg, larve, Pupa, and adult. When a pupa hatches it will feed on any
warm blooded animal( you and me included.)

Boric acid is a stomach poison that works by being ingested. If you
ingest enough of it you will be sick. Some people think that its
dessicant qualities effect flea development but it is a more common
theroy that flea larva eat the boric acid and it kills them.

The boric acid can attack an adult fleas outer cutical and kill it but
it is not the most efficent method of control.

If you have a pet, most of the spot on treatments can solve your
problem. fleas like to stay ont he host so by treating the animal you
can eventually control all of the fleas. Without an animal your best
recoures is to use a product that attacks as many stages of flea
development as possible. Vaccum regularly, find a product to apply
directly to your homes floor that is both an adluticide and has a growth
inhibiting hormone to control further development.

Suki wrote:

> We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the
> following questions so we can combat the problem?:
>
> 1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that cat/dog
> fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this
> true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas? Since
> we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die
> out on their own.
>
> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?
>
> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>

[Lar]

In article >, sukibot8
@yahoo.com says...
:) 1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that cat/dog
:) fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this
:) true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas? Since
:) we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die
:) out on their own.
There is a Human flea that usually are spread by working
with pigs. I believe it is more of an European/African
issue than American. Cat/dog fleas don't need specific
type of blood but have just developed as mentioned to
specific furs and body temp of host animals. Cat fleas
(I believe dog fleas too) will have a "moustache" of
bristles where the Human flea will just have a few. Your
flea problem may be from wild animals living under your
home or in the attic or walls.

:)
:) 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?

As with anything else it can be and can also cause
respiration problems.
:)
:) 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?

I believe the Borax treatment, due to its particle size
will mainly effect the larvae stage where as boric acid
designed for carpet treatments will have smaller
particles that the biting adult will ingest and die from
also. Borate treatments will be a slower mode maybe
taking several days to see results, but can work.

--

http://home.comcast.net/~larflu/owl1.jpg

Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!

[Lar]

In article >, sukibot8
@yahoo.com says...
:) 1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that cat/dog
:) fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this
:) true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas? Since
:) we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die
:) out on their own.
There is a Human flea that usually are spread by working
with pigs. I believe it is more of an European/African
issue than American. Cat/dog fleas don't need specific
type of blood but have just developed as mentioned to
specific furs and body temp of host animals. Cat fleas
(I believe dog fleas too) will have a "moustache" of
bristles where the Human flea will just have a few. Your
flea problem may be from wild animals living under your
home or in the attic or walls.

:)
:) 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?

As with anything else it can be and can also cause
respiration problems.
:)
:) 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?

I believe the Borax treatment, due to its particle size
will mainly effect the larvae stage where as boric acid
designed for carpet treatments will have smaller
particles that the biting adult will ingest and die from
also. Borate treatments will be a slower mode maybe
taking several days to see results, but can work.

--

http://home.comcast.net/~larflu/owl1.jpg

Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!

[Lar]

In article >, sukibot8
@yahoo.com says...
:) 1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that cat/dog
:) fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this
:) true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas? Since
:) we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die
:) out on their own.
There is a Human flea that usually are spread by working
with pigs. I believe it is more of an European/African
issue than American. Cat/dog fleas don't need specific
type of blood but have just developed as mentioned to
specific furs and body temp of host animals. Cat fleas
(I believe dog fleas too) will have a "moustache" of
bristles where the Human flea will just have a few. Your
flea problem may be from wild animals living under your
home or in the attic or walls.

:)
:) 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?

As with anything else it can be and can also cause
respiration problems.
:)
:) 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?

I believe the Borax treatment, due to its particle size
will mainly effect the larvae stage where as boric acid
designed for carpet treatments will have smaller
particles that the biting adult will ingest and die from
also. Borate treatments will be a slower mode maybe
taking several days to see results, but can work.

--

http://home.comcast.net/~larflu/owl1.jpg

Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!

[Ned Flanders]

"Suki" > wrote in message >...
> We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the
> following questions so we can combat the problem?:
>
> 1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that cat/dog
> fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this
> true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas? Since
> we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die
> out on their own.
>
> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?
>
> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?
>
> Thanks in advance.

Ingesting borax can cause irritability, anemia, skin inflammation and
lesions, hair loss, vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, and even death.
Potentially lethal doses from borax ingestion are one teaspoon for
infants, two for children, and five for adults. The most significant
toxicity concerns for borax center around ingestion poisoning and its
reproductive toxicity through ingestion. While borax has not been
shown to cause cancer or mutations, some animal studies have prompted
concerns that it may be a human reproductive toxin, and the California
EPA is currently evaluating it for possible consideration as a
reproductive toxin under Proposition 65. Borax's conversion to boric
acid in water prompts concerns for dermal absorption through broken
skin, especially among sensitive infants and children.

Cheers,

Ned

[Ned Flanders]

"Suki" > wrote in message >...
> We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the
> following questions so we can combat the problem?:
>
> 1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that cat/dog
> fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this
> true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas? Since
> we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die
> out on their own.
>
> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?
>
> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?
>
> Thanks in advance.

Ingesting borax can cause irritability, anemia, skin inflammation and
lesions, hair loss, vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, and even death.
Potentially lethal doses from borax ingestion are one teaspoon for
infants, two for children, and five for adults. The most significant
toxicity concerns for borax center around ingestion poisoning and its
reproductive toxicity through ingestion. While borax has not been
shown to cause cancer or mutations, some animal studies have prompted
concerns that it may be a human reproductive toxin, and the California
EPA is currently evaluating it for possible consideration as a
reproductive toxin under Proposition 65. Borax's conversion to boric
acid in water prompts concerns for dermal absorption through broken
skin, especially among sensitive infants and children.

Cheers,

Ned

[Ned Flanders]

"Suki" > wrote in message >...
> We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the
> following questions so we can combat the problem?:
>
> 1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that cat/dog
> fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this
> true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas? Since
> we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die
> out on their own.
>
> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?
>
> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?
>
> Thanks in advance.

Ingesting borax can cause irritability, anemia, skin inflammation and
lesions, hair loss, vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, and even death.
Potentially lethal doses from borax ingestion are one teaspoon for
infants, two for children, and five for adults. The most significant
toxicity concerns for borax center around ingestion poisoning and its
reproductive toxicity through ingestion. While borax has not been
shown to cause cancer or mutations, some animal studies have prompted
concerns that it may be a human reproductive toxin, and the California
EPA is currently evaluating it for possible consideration as a
reproductive toxin under Proposition 65. Borax's conversion to boric
acid in water prompts concerns for dermal absorption through broken
skin, especially among sensitive infants and children.

Cheers,

Ned

[smendrick]

It's likely that the flea eggs were left in the house by previous
inhabitants with pets. I have heard that the eggs can last for a
couple of years undisturbed. Frequent vacuuming will help to hatch
the existing flea eggs.

I believe the company "flea busters" uses boric acid in it's home flea
treatments. You can use the same methodology at home by sprinkling
the powder onto carpeted areas, then beat it into the fibers with a
broom. Frequent, regular vacuuming will help in alleviating the
problem.

[smendrick]

It's likely that the flea eggs were left in the house by previous
inhabitants with pets. I have heard that the eggs can last for a
couple of years undisturbed. Frequent vacuuming will help to hatch
the existing flea eggs.

I believe the company "flea busters" uses boric acid in it's home flea
treatments. You can use the same methodology at home by sprinkling
the powder onto carpeted areas, then beat it into the fibers with a
broom. Frequent, regular vacuuming will help in alleviating the
problem.

[smendrick]

It's likely that the flea eggs were left in the house by previous
inhabitants with pets. I have heard that the eggs can last for a
couple of years undisturbed. Frequent vacuuming will help to hatch
the existing flea eggs.

I believe the company "flea busters" uses boric acid in it's home flea
treatments. You can use the same methodology at home by sprinkling
the powder onto carpeted areas, then beat it into the fibers with a
broom. Frequent, regular vacuuming will help in alleviating the
problem.

[Bill]

>"Suki" > wrote in message
...
> We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the
> following questions so we can combat the problem?:
>
> 1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that
cat/dog
> fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this
> true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas?
Since
> we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die
> out on their own.
>
> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?
>
> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>

I had this same problem that I solved by calling a professional
exterminator. Problem solved.

As another poster pointed out, your problem may be caused by wild animals
that have made a home with you. Rats or mice are common, and they have
fleas too. This needs to be checked.

It would probably help to put a flea collar in the vacuum cleaner bag as
well, but this alone won't solve the problem. Even if no animals are
present, the flea eggs will continue to hatch in waves over time.
Professional exterminators know how to deal with this.

Bill

[Bill]

>"Suki" > wrote in message
...
> We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the
> following questions so we can combat the problem?:
>
> 1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that
cat/dog
> fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this
> true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas?
Since
> we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die
> out on their own.
>
> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?
>
> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>

I had this same problem that I solved by calling a professional
exterminator. Problem solved.

As another poster pointed out, your problem may be caused by wild animals
that have made a home with you. Rats or mice are common, and they have
fleas too. This needs to be checked.

It would probably help to put a flea collar in the vacuum cleaner bag as
well, but this alone won't solve the problem. Even if no animals are
present, the flea eggs will continue to hatch in waves over time.
Professional exterminators know how to deal with this.

Bill

[Bill]

>"Suki" > wrote in message
...
> We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the
> following questions so we can combat the problem?:
>
> 1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that
cat/dog
> fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this
> true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas?
Since
> we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die
> out on their own.
>
> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?
>
> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>

I had this same problem that I solved by calling a professional
exterminator. Problem solved.

As another poster pointed out, your problem may be caused by wild animals
that have made a home with you. Rats or mice are common, and they have
fleas too. This needs to be checked.

It would probably help to put a flea collar in the vacuum cleaner bag as
well, but this alone won't solve the problem. Even if no animals are
present, the flea eggs will continue to hatch in waves over time.
Professional exterminators know how to deal with this.

Bill

[PawsForThought]

>From: Lar

>I believe the Borax treatment, due to its particle size
>will mainly effect the larvae stage where as boric acid
>designed for carpet treatments will have smaller
>particles that the biting adult will ingest and die from
>also. Borate treatments will be a slower mode maybe
>taking several days to see results, but can work.

What about diatomaceous earth (food grade) for fleas? I know it's supposed to
work for insect control:

http://www.custommilling.com/Diatomaceous%20Earth.htm

http://www.usaemergencysupply.com/faq/diatomaceousearth.html

http://www.groworganic.com/a/item_PMB105_DiatomaceousEarth50LbBag.html

Lauren
________
See my cats: http://community.webshots.com/album/56955940rWhxAe
Raw Diet Info: http://www.holisticat.com/drjletter.html
http://www.geocities.com/rawfeeders/ForCatsOnly.html
Declawing Info: http://www.wholecat.com/articles/claws.htm

[PawsForThought]

>From: Lar

>I believe the Borax treatment, due to its particle size
>will mainly effect the larvae stage where as boric acid
>designed for carpet treatments will have smaller
>particles that the biting adult will ingest and die from
>also. Borate treatments will be a slower mode maybe
>taking several days to see results, but can work.

What about diatomaceous earth (food grade) for fleas? I know it's supposed to
work for insect control:

http://www.custommilling.com/Diatomaceous%20Earth.htm

http://www.usaemergencysupply.com/faq/diatomaceousearth.html

http://www.groworganic.com/a/item_PMB105_DiatomaceousEarth50LbBag.html

Lauren
________
See my cats: http://community.webshots.com/album/56955940rWhxAe
Raw Diet Info: http://www.holisticat.com/drjletter.html
http://www.geocities.com/rawfeeders/ForCatsOnly.html
Declawing Info: http://www.wholecat.com/articles/claws.htm

[PawsForThought]

>From: Lar

>I believe the Borax treatment, due to its particle size
>will mainly effect the larvae stage where as boric acid
>designed for carpet treatments will have smaller
>particles that the biting adult will ingest and die from
>also. Borate treatments will be a slower mode maybe
>taking several days to see results, but can work.

What about diatomaceous earth (food grade) for fleas? I know it's supposed to
work for insect control:

http://www.custommilling.com/Diatomaceous%20Earth.htm

http://www.usaemergencysupply.com/faq/diatomaceousearth.html

http://www.groworganic.com/a/item_PMB105_DiatomaceousEarth50LbBag.html

Lauren
________
See my cats: http://community.webshots.com/album/56955940rWhxAe
Raw Diet Info: http://www.holisticat.com/drjletter.html
http://www.geocities.com/rawfeeders/ForCatsOnly.html
Declawing Info: http://www.wholecat.com/articles/claws.htm

[Lar]

In article <893f05f3.0309240739.6288a9b9
@posting.google.com>, says...
:) I have heard that the eggs can last for a
:) couple of years undisturbed. Frequent vacuuming will help to hatch
:) the existing flea eggs.
:)
:)
You're thinking of the pupa stage.


--

http://home.comcast.net/~larflu/owl1.jpg

Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!

[Lar]

In article <893f05f3.0309240739.6288a9b9
@posting.google.com>, says...
:) I have heard that the eggs can last for a
:) couple of years undisturbed. Frequent vacuuming will help to hatch
:) the existing flea eggs.
:)
:)
You're thinking of the pupa stage.


--

http://home.comcast.net/~larflu/owl1.jpg

Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!

[Lar]

In article <893f05f3.0309240739.6288a9b9
@posting.google.com>, says...
:) I have heard that the eggs can last for a
:) couple of years undisturbed. Frequent vacuuming will help to hatch
:) the existing flea eggs.
:)
:)
You're thinking of the pupa stage.


--

http://home.comcast.net/~larflu/owl1.jpg

Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!

[Ned Flanders]

"Suki" > wrote in message >...
> We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the
> following questions so we can combat the problem?:
>
> 1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that cat/dog
> fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this
> true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas? Since
> we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die
> out on their own.
>
> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?
>
> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?
>
> Thanks in advance.

Try this, just as messy, but safer with dust masks:


Diatomaceous earth is a mined mineral product. It is the fossilized
remains of single-celled organisms that lived millions of years ago
(diatoms). Diatomaceous earth works on insects by puncturing their
outer protective layer causing death by dehydration. It comes
formulated alone or with pyrethrum insecticides. Alone, it is
virtually nontoxic to mammals. It is even added to animal feed to
control intestinal parasites and worms. This fossil is the abrasive
found in many types of toothpaste. In the home, it can be applied in
the wall voids, attics and other out-of-the-way spots to kill such
insects as ants, cockroaches and dry wood termites. Sprinkled on
carpets, it will kill fleas. As a barrier around garden beds, it
discourages slugs and snails. Caution: only natural diatomaceous earth
should be used for pest control (not pool grade).

And Nematodes added outside will end the problem, both can be found
online from organic gardening suppliers.


Cheers,

Ned

[Ned Flanders]

"Suki" > wrote in message >...
> We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the
> following questions so we can combat the problem?:
>
> 1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that cat/dog
> fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this
> true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas? Since
> we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die
> out on their own.
>
> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?
>
> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?
>
> Thanks in advance.

Try this, just as messy, but safer with dust masks:


Diatomaceous earth is a mined mineral product. It is the fossilized
remains of single-celled organisms that lived millions of years ago
(diatoms). Diatomaceous earth works on insects by puncturing their
outer protective layer causing death by dehydration. It comes
formulated alone or with pyrethrum insecticides. Alone, it is
virtually nontoxic to mammals. It is even added to animal feed to
control intestinal parasites and worms. This fossil is the abrasive
found in many types of toothpaste. In the home, it can be applied in
the wall voids, attics and other out-of-the-way spots to kill such
insects as ants, cockroaches and dry wood termites. Sprinkled on
carpets, it will kill fleas. As a barrier around garden beds, it
discourages slugs and snails. Caution: only natural diatomaceous earth
should be used for pest control (not pool grade).

And Nematodes added outside will end the problem, both can be found
online from organic gardening suppliers.


Cheers,

Ned

[Ned Flanders]

"Suki" > wrote in message >...
> We have a flea problem in our house. Can you help us by answering the
> following questions so we can combat the problem?:
>
> 1. Are there human fleas versus cat/dog fleas, someone told me that cat/dog
> fleas cannot reproduce by biting humans--they need cat/dog blood. Is this
> true? If so, how can we tell whether we have human or cat/dog fleas? Since
> we have no pets, I am hoping we have cat/dog fleas and that they will die
> out on their own.
>
> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?
>
> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?
>
> Thanks in advance.

Try this, just as messy, but safer with dust masks:


Diatomaceous earth is a mined mineral product. It is the fossilized
remains of single-celled organisms that lived millions of years ago
(diatoms). Diatomaceous earth works on insects by puncturing their
outer protective layer causing death by dehydration. It comes
formulated alone or with pyrethrum insecticides. Alone, it is
virtually nontoxic to mammals. It is even added to animal feed to
control intestinal parasites and worms. This fossil is the abrasive
found in many types of toothpaste. In the home, it can be applied in
the wall voids, attics and other out-of-the-way spots to kill such
insects as ants, cockroaches and dry wood termites. Sprinkled on
carpets, it will kill fleas. As a barrier around garden beds, it
discourages slugs and snails. Caution: only natural diatomaceous earth
should be used for pest control (not pool grade).

And Nematodes added outside will end the problem, both can be found
online from organic gardening suppliers.


Cheers,

Ned

[Meghan Noecker]

>> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?

Nope. All it does is absorb moisture. If you walk around on the rug
barefoot after sprinkling it in, your feet will be a little dry for a
couple days. Nothing more.

>>
>> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?
>>

Less than one day, usually. It's only a matter of the dog or cat lying
down on the floor and getting the borax to the flea.

For a bad infestation, it takes about a week to get rid of them. For a
small number, of fleas, 1-2 days.

We have been using vorax for about 10 years now. No problems. We have
cats and dogs as well as free roaming turtles. No problems.


Meghan & the Zoo Crew
Equine and Pet Photography
Friesians in the Northwest
http://www.zoocrewphoto.com

[Meghan Noecker]

>> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?

Nope. All it does is absorb moisture. If you walk around on the rug
barefoot after sprinkling it in, your feet will be a little dry for a
couple days. Nothing more.

>>
>> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?
>>

Less than one day, usually. It's only a matter of the dog or cat lying
down on the floor and getting the borax to the flea.

For a bad infestation, it takes about a week to get rid of them. For a
small number, of fleas, 1-2 days.

We have been using vorax for about 10 years now. No problems. We have
cats and dogs as well as free roaming turtles. No problems.


Meghan & the Zoo Crew
Equine and Pet Photography
Friesians in the Northwest
http://www.zoocrewphoto.com

[Meghan Noecker]

>> 2. Is Borax toxic to humans?

Nope. All it does is absorb moisture. If you walk around on the rug
barefoot after sprinkling it in, your feet will be a little dry for a
couple days. Nothing more.

>>
>> 3. Once a flea comes in contact with Borax, how long does it take to die?
>>

Less than one day, usually. It's only a matter of the dog or cat lying
down on the floor and getting the borax to the flea.

For a bad infestation, it takes about a week to get rid of them. For a
small number, of fleas, 1-2 days.

We have been using vorax for about 10 years now. No problems. We have
cats and dogs as well as free roaming turtles. No problems.


Meghan & the Zoo Crew
Equine and Pet Photography
Friesians in the Northwest
http://www.zoocrewphoto.com

[[email protected]]

All of the advice given here so far is good, however there are a couple of
things to point out. First off most states are stopping the use of the boric
acid flea treatment where you cover the carpet area and tamp in down into
the carpet. I think Florida was the first to stop it. Lots of it is due to
breathing problems by unsuspecting tenants. You treat with Boric Acid and a
new tenant moves in that has bad allergies you may have problems. That other
thing is that flea eggs can lay dormant for as much as six months if they
have no blood meal. The eggs are laid and they wait until they are "rattled"
and then that excites them to start hatching. This is once they are ready to
hatch, once they hatch and come into the pupae stage they will be eating
Keratin (sp) in the carpet. Once they hatch into young fleas they need blood
meals and that is when the biting starts.

Instead of going with Borax or any of the Boric Acid products, there is a
much simpler way to rid you home and pet of fleas. Go to the Vet and
purchase Frontline, DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME on the over the counter products,
get Frontline place the drops on the pet according to the label and within
48 to 72 hours your home should be flea free. When a customer calls me to
come treat for Fleas I advise them to try the Frontline first, it is less
that what I would be and what most of us don't want to admit, but it is the
truth, it is more effective than we are. In the Pest Control Industry the
key to any insect control is to treat them at the source, in this case it
would be a pet. Take care of your pet and your pet will take care of you.

Again though I must re-emphasize do not use the stuff you buy at Walmart or
the local drug store, those are all repellents and will cause the fleas to
jump off into your carpet and when you walk by they will still need to feed.
Use the Frontline, you will be happy.

--
I wish you all the best
Tim W

[[email protected]]

All of the advice given here so far is good, however there are a couple of
things to point out. First off most states are stopping the use of the boric
acid flea treatment where you cover the carpet area and tamp in down into
the carpet. I think Florida was the first to stop it. Lots of it is due to
breathing problems by unsuspecting tenants. You treat with Boric Acid and a
new tenant moves in that has bad allergies you may have problems. That other
thing is that flea eggs can lay dormant for as much as six months if they
have no blood meal. The eggs are laid and they wait until they are "rattled"
and then that excites them to start hatching. This is once they are ready to
hatch, once they hatch and come into the pupae stage they will be eating
Keratin (sp) in the carpet. Once they hatch into young fleas they need blood
meals and that is when the biting starts.

Instead of going with Borax or any of the Boric Acid products, there is a
much simpler way to rid you home and pet of fleas. Go to the Vet and
purchase Frontline, DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME on the over the counter products,
get Frontline place the drops on the pet according to the label and within
48 to 72 hours your home should be flea free. When a customer calls me to
come treat for Fleas I advise them to try the Frontline first, it is less
that what I would be and what most of us don't want to admit, but it is the
truth, it is more effective than we are. In the Pest Control Industry the
key to any insect control is to treat them at the source, in this case it
would be a pet. Take care of your pet and your pet will take care of you.

Again though I must re-emphasize do not use the stuff you buy at Walmart or
the local drug store, those are all repellents and will cause the fleas to
jump off into your carpet and when you walk by they will still need to feed.
Use the Frontline, you will be happy.

--
I wish you all the best
Tim W

[[email protected]]

All of the advice given here so far is good, however there are a couple of
things to point out. First off most states are stopping the use of the boric
acid flea treatment where you cover the carpet area and tamp in down into
the carpet. I think Florida was the first to stop it. Lots of it is due to
breathing problems by unsuspecting tenants. You treat with Boric Acid and a
new tenant moves in that has bad allergies you may have problems. That other
thing is that flea eggs can lay dormant for as much as six months if they
have no blood meal. The eggs are laid and they wait until they are "rattled"
and then that excites them to start hatching. This is once they are ready to
hatch, once they hatch and come into the pupae stage they will be eating
Keratin (sp) in the carpet. Once they hatch into young fleas they need blood
meals and that is when the biting starts.

Instead of going with Borax or any of the Boric Acid products, there is a
much simpler way to rid you home and pet of fleas. Go to the Vet and
purchase Frontline, DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME on the over the counter products,
get Frontline place the drops on the pet according to the label and within
48 to 72 hours your home should be flea free. When a customer calls me to
come treat for Fleas I advise them to try the Frontline first, it is less
that what I would be and what most of us don't want to admit, but it is the
truth, it is more effective than we are. In the Pest Control Industry the
key to any insect control is to treat them at the source, in this case it
would be a pet. Take care of your pet and your pet will take care of you.

Again though I must re-emphasize do not use the stuff you buy at Walmart or
the local drug store, those are all repellents and will cause the fleas to
jump off into your carpet and when you walk by they will still need to feed.
Use the Frontline, you will be happy.

--
I wish you all the best
Tim W

[Neil]

"Suki" > wrote in message >...
> We have a flea problem in our house.

Do you have cats, dogs, or any other pet that fleas like? If so, see
your vet about getting Advantage or some similar treatment for your
pet(s). Since we did that, we've never had a flea problem again.

Nothing else we tried was anywhere near as effective. Bug sprays,
powders, washing everything, etc. provide a little help, but it
doesn't last long. In the pre-Advantage era, we found that vacuuming
twice daily seemed to make the biggest difference, but since using
Advantage we've never had fleas again. Advantage (and similar
products) is by far the best solution, IME. Nothing else comes close.

(snip)

[Neil]

"Suki" > wrote in message >...
> We have a flea problem in our house.

Do you have cats, dogs, or any other pet that fleas like? If so, see
your vet about getting Advantage or some similar treatment for your
pet(s). Since we did that, we've never had a flea problem again.

Nothing else we tried was anywhere near as effective. Bug sprays,
powders, washing everything, etc. provide a little help, but it
doesn't last long. In the pre-Advantage era, we found that vacuuming
twice daily seemed to make the biggest difference, but since using
Advantage we've never had fleas again. Advantage (and similar
products) is by far the best solution, IME. Nothing else comes close.

(snip)

[Neil]

"Suki" > wrote in message >...
> We have a flea problem in our house.

Do you have cats, dogs, or any other pet that fleas like? If so, see
your vet about getting Advantage or some similar treatment for your
pet(s). Since we did that, we've never had a flea problem again.

Nothing else we tried was anywhere near as effective. Bug sprays,
powders, washing everything, etc. provide a little help, but it
doesn't last long. In the pre-Advantage era, we found that vacuuming
twice daily seemed to make the biggest difference, but since using
Advantage we've never had fleas again. Advantage (and similar
products) is by far the best solution, IME. Nothing else comes close.

(snip)

[Meghan Noecker]

On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 13:39:17 GMT, wrote:

>All of the advice given here so far is good, however there are a couple of
>things to point out. First off most states are stopping the use of the boric
>acid flea treatment where you cover the carpet area and tamp in down into
>the carpet. I think Florida was the first to stop it. Lots of it is due to
>breathing problems by unsuspecting tenants. You treat with Boric Acid and a
>new tenant moves in that has bad allergies you may have problems.

Do you have any links to information on this? I have asthma, but I
have not had any problems with it. I'm the one who sprinkles it into
the rug. It's dusty for about an hour, but not bad if you do it
right.I don't even sneeze. I find it hard to believe that 3-4
applications a year would cause a breathing problem. And there is no
reason to do it more often that that.


Meghan & the Zoo Crew
Equine and Pet Photography
http://www.zoocrewphoto.com

[Meghan Noecker]

On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 13:39:17 GMT, wrote:

>All of the advice given here so far is good, however there are a couple of
>things to point out. First off most states are stopping the use of the boric
>acid flea treatment where you cover the carpet area and tamp in down into
>the carpet. I think Florida was the first to stop it. Lots of it is due to
>breathing problems by unsuspecting tenants. You treat with Boric Acid and a
>new tenant moves in that has bad allergies you may have problems.

Do you have any links to information on this? I have asthma, but I
have not had any problems with it. I'm the one who sprinkles it into
the rug. It's dusty for about an hour, but not bad if you do it
right.I don't even sneeze. I find it hard to believe that 3-4
applications a year would cause a breathing problem. And there is no
reason to do it more often that that.


Meghan & the Zoo Crew
Equine and Pet Photography
http://www.zoocrewphoto.com

[Meghan Noecker]

On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 13:39:17 GMT, wrote:

>All of the advice given here so far is good, however there are a couple of
>things to point out. First off most states are stopping the use of the boric
>acid flea treatment where you cover the carpet area and tamp in down into
>the carpet. I think Florida was the first to stop it. Lots of it is due to
>breathing problems by unsuspecting tenants. You treat with Boric Acid and a
>new tenant moves in that has bad allergies you may have problems.

Do you have any links to information on this? I have asthma, but I
have not had any problems with it. I'm the one who sprinkles it into
the rug. It's dusty for about an hour, but not bad if you do it
right.I don't even sneeze. I find it hard to believe that 3-4
applications a year would cause a breathing problem. And there is no
reason to do it more often that that.


Meghan & the Zoo Crew
Equine and Pet Photography
http://www.zoocrewphoto.com

[Philip ®]

Meghan Noecker wrote:
>> I believe the company "flea busters" uses boric acid in it's home
>> flea treatments. You can use the same methodology at home by
>> sprinkling the powder onto carpeted areas, then beat it into the
>> fibers with a broom. Frequent, regular vacuuming will help in
>> alleviating the problem.
>
>
> Yes. We used to have a horrible problem years ago, and hired Flea
> Busters. They guaranteed their work for a year, and it lasted in
> our house for 5 years. By that time, we learned we could do it
> ourselves with Borax. We have to do it more often (3-4 times a
> year) since we can't pound it into the rug so deeply. But it works
> great. I haven't seen any evidence of fleas for about 2 years now.
> And the last time was because we let it go 8 months before doing
> the borax again. We can do the whole house with only half a box,
> so it is inexpensive, and fairly easy. Non toxic to the animals.
> Only kills small bugs like fleas. Basically, it absorbs moisture,
> so they dry out and die.
>
> If you currently have a flea problem, make sure you hit all the pet
> areas very well, basically anywhere they sleep. If the problem is
> bad, it takes about a week to get rid of them. If you have been
> doing it and forgot to keep up, and you see a little scratching or
> the first hints of fleas, you can do the borax and have them gone
> in 1-2 days.
>
> If the animals are really having trouble, go ahead and use the
> advantage type products right away. It works faster, and will
> relieve the problem. We have two cats that are allergic to flea
> bites, so when we forgot to do the borax and the fleas came back,
> we treated them with advantage to give them fast relief. We don't
> use it on a regular basis though since it doesn't treat the
> environment and gets very expensive with 3 dogs and 4 cats. The
> borax works great without any medication or toxins
>
> Meghan & the Zoo Crew
> Equine and Pet Photography
> Friesians in the Northwest
> http://www.zoocrewphoto.com

But ... but ... but ... you're killing innocent widda bugs!!!
You're committing atrocities on BILLIONS of innocents! You MURDERER!
You beast! Bugs have Rights too!

(laughing so hard I started coughing!)
--

~~Philip

"Never let school interfere
with your education - Mark Twain"

[Philip ®]

Meghan Noecker wrote:
>> I believe the company "flea busters" uses boric acid in it's home
>> flea treatments. You can use the same methodology at home by
>> sprinkling the powder onto carpeted areas, then beat it into the
>> fibers with a broom. Frequent, regular vacuuming will help in
>> alleviating the problem.
>
>
> Yes. We used to have a horrible problem years ago, and hired Flea
> Busters. They guaranteed their work for a year, and it lasted in
> our house for 5 years. By that time, we learned we could do it
> ourselves with Borax. We have to do it more often (3-4 times a
> year) since we can't pound it into the rug so deeply. But it works
> great. I haven't seen any evidence of fleas for about 2 years now.
> And the last time was because we let it go 8 months before doing
> the borax again. We can do the whole house with only half a box,
> so it is inexpensive, and fairly easy. Non toxic to the animals.
> Only kills small bugs like fleas. Basically, it absorbs moisture,
> so they dry out and die.
>
> If you currently have a flea problem, make sure you hit all the pet
> areas very well, basically anywhere they sleep. If the problem is
> bad, it takes about a week to get rid of them. If you have been
> doing it and forgot to keep up, and you see a little scratching or
> the first hints of fleas, you can do the borax and have them gone
> in 1-2 days.
>
> If the animals are really having trouble, go ahead and use the
> advantage type products right away. It works faster, and will
> relieve the problem. We have two cats that are allergic to flea
> bites, so when we forgot to do the borax and the fleas came back,
> we treated them with advantage to give them fast relief. We don't
> use it on a regular basis though since it doesn't treat the
> environment and gets very expensive with 3 dogs and 4 cats. The
> borax works great without any medication or toxins
>
> Meghan & the Zoo Crew
> Equine and Pet Photography
> Friesians in the Northwest
> http://www.zoocrewphoto.com

But ... but ... but ... you're killing innocent widda bugs!!!
You're committing atrocities on BILLIONS of innocents! You MURDERER!
You beast! Bugs have Rights too!

(laughing so hard I started coughing!)
--

~~Philip

"Never let school interfere
with your education - Mark Twain"

[Philip ®]

Meghan Noecker wrote:
>> I believe the company "flea busters" uses boric acid in it's home
>> flea treatments. You can use the same methodology at home by
>> sprinkling the powder onto carpeted areas, then beat it into the
>> fibers with a broom. Frequent, regular vacuuming will help in
>> alleviating the problem.
>
>
> Yes. We used to have a horrible problem years ago, and hired Flea
> Busters. They guaranteed their work for a year, and it lasted in
> our house for 5 years. By that time, we learned we could do it
> ourselves with Borax. We have to do it more often (3-4 times a
> year) since we can't pound it into the rug so deeply. But it works
> great. I haven't seen any evidence of fleas for about 2 years now.
> And the last time was because we let it go 8 months before doing
> the borax again. We can do the whole house with only half a box,
> so it is inexpensive, and fairly easy. Non toxic to the animals.
> Only kills small bugs like fleas. Basically, it absorbs moisture,
> so they dry out and die.
>
> If you currently have a flea problem, make sure you hit all the pet
> areas very well, basically anywhere they sleep. If the problem is
> bad, it takes about a week to get rid of them. If you have been
> doing it and forgot to keep up, and you see a little scratching or
> the first hints of fleas, you can do the borax and have them gone
> in 1-2 days.
>
> If the animals are really having trouble, go ahead and use the
> advantage type products right away. It works faster, and will
> relieve the problem. We have two cats that are allergic to flea
> bites, so when we forgot to do the borax and the fleas came back,
> we treated them with advantage to give them fast relief. We don't
> use it on a regular basis though since it doesn't treat the
> environment and gets very expensive with 3 dogs and 4 cats. The
> borax works great without any medication or toxins
>
> Meghan & the Zoo Crew
> Equine and Pet Photography
> Friesians in the Northwest
> http://www.zoocrewphoto.com

But ... but ... but ... you're killing innocent widda bugs!!!
You're committing atrocities on BILLIONS of innocents! You MURDERER!
You beast! Bugs have Rights too!

(laughing so hard I started coughing!)
--

~~Philip

"Never let school interfere
with your education - Mark Twain"

[PCOpug]

Very sound advice. I wonder what percentage of actual borates exist in the
various "powders"?

My neighbor has roaming cats. She uses the "drops" on her animals
(Advantage, Frontline etc.) and this works great !

I saw a case of an elderly lady that was exceptionally clean and never let
her cat outside. I believe the fleas came thru the front door. I believe
curious outdoor cats had a few residents jump off.


Ingesting borax can cause irritability, anemia, skin inflammation and
lesions, hair loss, vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, and even death.
Potentially lethal doses from borax ingestion are one teaspoon for
infants, two for children, and five for adults. The most significant
toxicity concerns for borax center around ingestion poisoning and its
reproductive toxicity through ingestion. While borax has not been
shown to cause cancer or mutations, some animal studies have prompted
concerns that it may be a human reproductive toxin, and the California
EPA is currently evaluating it for possible consideration as a
reproductive toxin under Proposition 65. Borax's conversion to boric
acid in water prompts concerns for dermal absorption through broken
skin, especially among sensitive infants and children

[PCOpug]

Very sound advice. I wonder what percentage of actual borates exist in the
various "powders"?

My neighbor has roaming cats. She uses the "drops" on her animals
(Advantage, Frontline etc.) and this works great !

I saw a case of an elderly lady that was exceptionally clean and never let
her cat outside. I believe the fleas came thru the front door. I believe
curious outdoor cats had a few residents jump off.


Ingesting borax can cause irritability, anemia, skin inflammation and
lesions, hair loss, vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, and even death.
Potentially lethal doses from borax ingestion are one teaspoon for
infants, two for children, and five for adults. The most significant
toxicity concerns for borax center around ingestion poisoning and its
reproductive toxicity through ingestion. While borax has not been
shown to cause cancer or mutations, some animal studies have prompted
concerns that it may be a human reproductive toxin, and the California
EPA is currently evaluating it for possible consideration as a
reproductive toxin under Proposition 65. Borax's conversion to boric
acid in water prompts concerns for dermal absorption through broken
skin, especially among sensitive infants and children

[PCOpug]

Very sound advice. I wonder what percentage of actual borates exist in the
various "powders"?

My neighbor has roaming cats. She uses the "drops" on her animals
(Advantage, Frontline etc.) and this works great !

I saw a case of an elderly lady that was exceptionally clean and never let
her cat outside. I believe the fleas came thru the front door. I believe
curious outdoor cats had a few residents jump off.


Ingesting borax can cause irritability, anemia, skin inflammation and
lesions, hair loss, vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, and even death.
Potentially lethal doses from borax ingestion are one teaspoon for
infants, two for children, and five for adults. The most significant
toxicity concerns for borax center around ingestion poisoning and its
reproductive toxicity through ingestion. While borax has not been
shown to cause cancer or mutations, some animal studies have prompted
concerns that it may be a human reproductive toxin, and the California
EPA is currently evaluating it for possible consideration as a
reproductive toxin under Proposition 65. Borax's conversion to boric
acid in water prompts concerns for dermal absorption through broken
skin, especially among sensitive infants and children

[[email protected]]

Meghan, I will try to find anything I can on this and let you know. I know
several other PCO's in FL and I will have them take a look here at our posts
and see if they can help you anymore than I can. Actually it was these guys
that told me about a big company in FL that was doing this treatment and
they were either shut down or the treatment was stopped and the company had
nothing other to do but close their doors. I will see what I can find and
post it here for you.

--
I wish you all the best
Tim W

[[email protected]]

Meghan, I will try to find anything I can on this and let you know. I know
several other PCO's in FL and I will have them take a look here at our posts
and see if they can help you anymore than I can. Actually it was these guys
that told me about a big company in FL that was doing this treatment and
they were either shut down or the treatment was stopped and the company had
nothing other to do but close their doors. I will see what I can find and
post it here for you.

--
I wish you all the best
Tim W

[[email protected]]

Meghan, I will try to find anything I can on this and let you know. I know
several other PCO's in FL and I will have them take a look here at our posts
and see if they can help you anymore than I can. Actually it was these guys
that told me about a big company in FL that was doing this treatment and
they were either shut down or the treatment was stopped and the company had
nothing other to do but close their doors. I will see what I can find and
post it here for you.

--
I wish you all the best
Tim W

[Lar]

In article >,
says...
:) Do you have any links to information on this? I have asthma, but I
:) have not had any problems with it. I'm the one who sprinkles it into
:) the rug.
:)
I don't think allergies would be the correct term but
people with respiratory issues in general can have
problems with the dust. Here is the MSDS for boric acid.
http://www.chess.cornell.edu/Safety/MSDS/boric_acid.htm
I believe the grade of the product the various
companies used for the flea control was not pure boric
acid for they claimed it was less toxic than table salt,
which boric acid is not, and has of course evolved into
grabbing what's ever labeled as boric acid and now is
used. I remember several customers that used the "Year
Long" flea control cursed many months after the
treatments due to excessive dust that constantly had to
be cleaned, which had to also of been breathed in. About
the only benefit boric acid treatments will have is that
it is cheap, but compared product to product, though it
can be relatively safe to use, probably is more toxic
than what's out there. Another "less toxic" approach
will be to introduce insect growth regulators (IGR's)
into the area. The sprays for the interior will stay
active up to 7 months and can be applied to the pets as
a spray monthly. If fleas are brought in and lay eggs
before the animal is cleaned, the growth regulator will
keep the eggs from hatching. My vote still goes to
having the animal treated with either Frontline or
Advantage. Before those product it was not unusual to
get 3-6 calls a day for fleas during the Summer. After
the first year those products came out that dropped to
maybe a couple of dozen flea jobs all year long.
--

http://home.comcast.net/~larflu/owl1.jpg

Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!

[Lar]

In article >,
says...
:) Do you have any links to information on this? I have asthma, but I
:) have not had any problems with it. I'm the one who sprinkles it into
:) the rug.
:)
I don't think allergies would be the correct term but
people with respiratory issues in general can have
problems with the dust. Here is the MSDS for boric acid.
http://www.chess.cornell.edu/Safety/MSDS/boric_acid.htm
I believe the grade of the product the various
companies used for the flea control was not pure boric
acid for they claimed it was less toxic than table salt,
which boric acid is not, and has of course evolved into
grabbing what's ever labeled as boric acid and now is
used. I remember several customers that used the "Year
Long" flea control cursed many months after the
treatments due to excessive dust that constantly had to
be cleaned, which had to also of been breathed in. About
the only benefit boric acid treatments will have is that
it is cheap, but compared product to product, though it
can be relatively safe to use, probably is more toxic
than what's out there. Another "less toxic" approach
will be to introduce insect growth regulators (IGR's)
into the area. The sprays for the interior will stay
active up to 7 months and can be applied to the pets as
a spray monthly. If fleas are brought in and lay eggs
before the animal is cleaned, the growth regulator will
keep the eggs from hatching. My vote still goes to
having the animal treated with either Frontline or
Advantage. Before those product it was not unusual to
get 3-6 calls a day for fleas during the Summer. After
the first year those products came out that dropped to
maybe a couple of dozen flea jobs all year long.
--

http://home.comcast.net/~larflu/owl1.jpg

Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!

[Lar]

In article >,
says...
:) Do you have any links to information on this? I have asthma, but I
:) have not had any problems with it. I'm the one who sprinkles it into
:) the rug.
:)
I don't think allergies would be the correct term but
people with respiratory issues in general can have
problems with the dust. Here is the MSDS for boric acid.
http://www.chess.cornell.edu/Safety/MSDS/boric_acid.htm
I believe the grade of the product the various
companies used for the flea control was not pure boric
acid for they claimed it was less toxic than table salt,
which boric acid is not, and has of course evolved into
grabbing what's ever labeled as boric acid and now is
used. I remember several customers that used the "Year
Long" flea control cursed many months after the
treatments due to excessive dust that constantly had to
be cleaned, which had to also of been breathed in. About
the only benefit boric acid treatments will have is that
it is cheap, but compared product to product, though it
can be relatively safe to use, probably is more toxic
than what's out there. Another "less toxic" approach
will be to introduce insect growth regulators (IGR's)
into the area. The sprays for the interior will stay
active up to 7 months and can be applied to the pets as
a spray monthly. If fleas are brought in and lay eggs
before the animal is cleaned, the growth regulator will
keep the eggs from hatching. My vote still goes to
having the animal treated with either Frontline or
Advantage. Before those product it was not unusual to
get 3-6 calls a day for fleas during the Summer. After
the first year those products came out that dropped to
maybe a couple of dozen flea jobs all year long.
--

http://home.comcast.net/~larflu/owl1.jpg

Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!

[The Real Bev]

Ned Flanders wrote:

> As a barrier around garden beds, it
> discourages slugs and snails. Caution: only natural diatomaceous earth
> should be used for pest control (not pool grade).

Why?

--
Cheers,
Bev
*****************************************
"Don't force it, use a bigger hammer!"
--M. Irving

[The Real Bev]

Ned Flanders wrote:

> As a barrier around garden beds, it
> discourages slugs and snails. Caution: only natural diatomaceous earth
> should be used for pest control (not pool grade).

Why?

--
Cheers,
Bev
*****************************************
"Don't force it, use a bigger hammer!"
--M. Irving

[The Real Bev]

Ned Flanders wrote:

> As a barrier around garden beds, it
> discourages slugs and snails. Caution: only natural diatomaceous earth
> should be used for pest control (not pool grade).

Why?

--
Cheers,
Bev
*****************************************
"Don't force it, use a bigger hammer!"
--M. Irving

[Lar]

In article >,
says...
:) > As a barrier around garden beds, it
:) > discourages slugs and snails. Caution: only natural diatomaceous earth
:) > should be used for pest control (not pool grade).
:)
:) Why?
:)
:)
It is heated to point where the sharp edges are lost and
the smaller particles will begin to bond together
forming larger more uniform particles, better for
filtering, but loses the desiccation benefits.

--
http://home.comcast.net/~larflu/bludf2.jpg

Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!

[Lar]

In article >,
says...
:) > As a barrier around garden beds, it
:) > discourages slugs and snails. Caution: only natural diatomaceous earth
:) > should be used for pest control (not pool grade).
:)
:) Why?
:)
:)
It is heated to point where the sharp edges are lost and
the smaller particles will begin to bond together
forming larger more uniform particles, better for
filtering, but loses the desiccation benefits.

--
http://home.comcast.net/~larflu/bludf2.jpg

Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!

[Lar]

In article >,
says...
:) > As a barrier around garden beds, it
:) > discourages slugs and snails. Caution: only natural diatomaceous earth
:) > should be used for pest control (not pool grade).
:)
:) Why?
:)
:)
It is heated to point where the sharp edges are lost and
the smaller particles will begin to bond together
forming larger more uniform particles, better for
filtering, but loses the desiccation benefits.

--
http://home.comcast.net/~larflu/bludf2.jpg

Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!

[Meghan Noecker]

On Fri, 26 Sep 2003 03:56:47 GMT, Lar > wrote:

I remember several customers that used the "Year
>Long" flea control cursed many months after the
>treatments due to excessive dust that constantly had to
>be cleaned, which had to also of been breathed in.

Hmm. Ours lasted a little over 5 years, and we never had a problem of
dust. Could be the way the put it in the floors, or perhaps
differences in climate. I am in Washington.

When that wore off, we switched to Borax, the kind you buy as laundry
detergent. One box does our whole house 4 times, so it lasts a year.
It doesn't take a lot, and we sprinkle it very liightly, low to the
floor, and then sweep it in gently so it doesn't stir a lot of dust.
We've been doing that about 10 years now. We did forget twice and let
it go 6-8 months without doing it, and those two times, we had a
couple days of fleas while the new treatment did its job.

>keep the eggs from hatching. My vote still goes to
>having the animal treated with either Frontline or
>Advantage.

These have always been very expensive (we currently have 7 pets, and
have had as many as 10), and while they did work, they had to be
reapplied over and over. I also have to wonder about applying these
chemicals to our pets.

Once the Borax is down int othe carpet and the excess vacuumed, it
really doesn't present a problem.

Perhaps the people with problems were using too much, or doing it
frequently?


Meghan & the Zoo Crew
Equine and Pet Photography
http://www.zoocrewphoto.com

[Meghan Noecker]

On Fri, 26 Sep 2003 03:56:47 GMT, Lar > wrote:

I remember several customers that used the "Year
>Long" flea control cursed many months after the
>treatments due to excessive dust that constantly had to
>be cleaned, which had to also of been breathed in.

Hmm. Ours lasted a little over 5 years, and we never had a problem of
dust. Could be the way the put it in the floors, or perhaps
differences in climate. I am in Washington.

When that wore off, we switched to Borax, the kind you buy as laundry
detergent. One box does our whole house 4 times, so it lasts a year.
It doesn't take a lot, and we sprinkle it very liightly, low to the
floor, and then sweep it in gently so it doesn't stir a lot of dust.
We've been doing that about 10 years now. We did forget twice and let
it go 6-8 months without doing it, and those two times, we had a
couple days of fleas while the new treatment did its job.

>keep the eggs from hatching. My vote still goes to
>having the animal treated with either Frontline or
>Advantage.

These have always been very expensive (we currently have 7 pets, and
have had as many as 10), and while they did work, they had to be
reapplied over and over. I also have to wonder about applying these
chemicals to our pets.

Once the Borax is down int othe carpet and the excess vacuumed, it
really doesn't present a problem.

Perhaps the people with problems were using too much, or doing it
frequently?


Meghan & the Zoo Crew
Equine and Pet Photography
http://www.zoocrewphoto.com

[Meghan Noecker]

On Fri, 26 Sep 2003 03:56:47 GMT, Lar > wrote:

I remember several customers that used the "Year
>Long" flea control cursed many months after the
>treatments due to excessive dust that constantly had to
>be cleaned, which had to also of been breathed in.

Hmm. Ours lasted a little over 5 years, and we never had a problem of
dust. Could be the way the put it in the floors, or perhaps
differences in climate. I am in Washington.

When that wore off, we switched to Borax, the kind you buy as laundry
detergent. One box does our whole house 4 times, so it lasts a year.
It doesn't take a lot, and we sprinkle it very liightly, low to the
floor, and then sweep it in gently so it doesn't stir a lot of dust.
We've been doing that about 10 years now. We did forget twice and let
it go 6-8 months without doing it, and those two times, we had a
couple days of fleas while the new treatment did its job.

>keep the eggs from hatching. My vote still goes to
>having the animal treated with either Frontline or
>Advantage.

These have always been very expensive (we currently have 7 pets, and
have had as many as 10), and while they did work, they had to be
reapplied over and over. I also have to wonder about applying these
chemicals to our pets.

Once the Borax is down int othe carpet and the excess vacuumed, it
really doesn't present a problem.

Perhaps the people with problems were using too much, or doing it
frequently?


Meghan & the Zoo Crew
Equine and Pet Photography
http://www.zoocrewphoto.com

[[email protected]]

Hey Lar, when you get a Flea call do you suggest Frontline first? I ask them
if they still have a pet inside and if they do I tell them they would be
better off getting the frontline. This year I have done less than 10 flea
jobs, those were all special occasions or where the person no longer had an
animal. I like telling them the truth and the truth is there is not better
treatment than Frontline or Advantage. The question about cost...I hate to
sound like such an ass, but if you can't afford the expenses then you should
not have the animal. If you cannot afford this stuff what are you going to
do if one of the animals needs some kind of surgery that could cost a grand
or more? If you take on the responsibility of owning an animal you need to
take on all that comes with it. The person that claims they have had no
problems may very well have had nothing......yet. It may come back to haunt
them in the years to come. My dad for instance worked in a glass factory and
used plain asbestos for over 30 years. They always told them it was "safe"
he is now eaten up with Asbestosis. His lungs are highly damaged because of
the dust from it.

I know the Boric Acid treatment works, but there is more to it than the
point that "it works." Chlorodane worked, DDT worked, Aldrin worked,
Heptachlor (sp) worked, Safrotin worked, all of these products worked and it
took years to find out what the final results were before they removed this
from the shelves. Boric Acid works but I would not use it in a flea
treatment under any circumstances.

--
I wish you all the best
Tim W

[[email protected]]

Hey Lar, when you get a Flea call do you suggest Frontline first? I ask them
if they still have a pet inside and if they do I tell them they would be
better off getting the frontline. This year I have done less than 10 flea
jobs, those were all special occasions or where the person no longer had an
animal. I like telling them the truth and the truth is there is not better
treatment than Frontline or Advantage. The question about cost...I hate to
sound like such an ass, but if you can't afford the expenses then you should
not have the animal. If you cannot afford this stuff what are you going to
do if one of the animals needs some kind of surgery that could cost a grand
or more? If you take on the responsibility of owning an animal you need to
take on all that comes with it. The person that claims they have had no
problems may very well have had nothing......yet. It may come back to haunt
them in the years to come. My dad for instance worked in a glass factory and
used plain asbestos for over 30 years. They always told them it was "safe"
he is now eaten up with Asbestosis. His lungs are highly damaged because of
the dust from it.

I know the Boric Acid treatment works, but there is more to it than the
point that "it works." Chlorodane worked, DDT worked, Aldrin worked,
Heptachlor (sp) worked, Safrotin worked, all of these products worked and it
took years to find out what the final results were before they removed this
from the shelves. Boric Acid works but I would not use it in a flea
treatment under any circumstances.

--
I wish you all the best
Tim W

[[email protected]]

Hey Lar, when you get a Flea call do you suggest Frontline first? I ask them
if they still have a pet inside and if they do I tell them they would be
better off getting the frontline. This year I have done less than 10 flea
jobs, those were all special occasions or where the person no longer had an
animal. I like telling them the truth and the truth is there is not better
treatment than Frontline or Advantage. The question about cost...I hate to
sound like such an ass, but if you can't afford the expenses then you should
not have the animal. If you cannot afford this stuff what are you going to
do if one of the animals needs some kind of surgery that could cost a grand
or more? If you take on the responsibility of owning an animal you need to
take on all that comes with it. The person that claims they have had no
problems may very well have had nothing......yet. It may come back to haunt
them in the years to come. My dad for instance worked in a glass factory and
used plain asbestos for over 30 years. They always told them it was "safe"
he is now eaten up with Asbestosis. His lungs are highly damaged because of
the dust from it.

I know the Boric Acid treatment works, but there is more to it than the
point that "it works." Chlorodane worked, DDT worked, Aldrin worked,
Heptachlor (sp) worked, Safrotin worked, all of these products worked and it
took years to find out what the final results were before they removed this
from the shelves. Boric Acid works but I would not use it in a flea
treatment under any circumstances.

--
I wish you all the best
Tim W

[Lar]

In article <rsWcb.4038$iT4.2944357
@news1.news.adelphia.net>,
says...
:) Hey Lar, when you get a Flea call do you suggest Frontline first? I ask them
:) if they still have a pet inside and if they do I tell them they would be
:) better off getting the frontline.
:)
Yes I do, and when I get to the home and get talking to
the pet owner and find out that they have started the
Frontline or Advantage I will reduce the quoted price
they were given. Supposedly over a billion dollars a
year went from the pest control industry to the
veterinarians....I say they can have it :)

--

As you slide down the banister of life, may you not come
across any splinters pointing the wrong way.

Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!

[Lar]

In article <rsWcb.4038$iT4.2944357
@news1.news.adelphia.net>,
says...
:) Hey Lar, when you get a Flea call do you suggest Frontline first? I ask them
:) if they still have a pet inside and if they do I tell them they would be
:) better off getting the frontline.
:)
Yes I do, and when I get to the home and get talking to
the pet owner and find out that they have started the
Frontline or Advantage I will reduce the quoted price
they were given. Supposedly over a billion dollars a
year went from the pest control industry to the
veterinarians....I say they can have it :)

--

As you slide down the banister of life, may you not come
across any splinters pointing the wrong way.

Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!

[Lar]

In article <rsWcb.4038$iT4.2944357
@news1.news.adelphia.net>,
says...
:) Hey Lar, when you get a Flea call do you suggest Frontline first? I ask them
:) if they still have a pet inside and if they do I tell them they would be
:) better off getting the frontline.
:)
Yes I do, and when I get to the home and get talking to
the pet owner and find out that they have started the
Frontline or Advantage I will reduce the quoted price
they were given. Supposedly over a billion dollars a
year went from the pest control industry to the
veterinarians....I say they can have it :)

--

As you slide down the banister of life, may you not come
across any splinters pointing the wrong way.

Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!

[[email protected]]

I must agree with you on that point. In this business there are some pests
that are hard to fight and then there are those that I would rather just
stay away from, Fleas is in the stay away catagory. If I can suggest
something for someone to purchase and use, as long as I know it is better
than what I can do I will always make those kind of suggestions. It may cost
me a couple of jobs every now and again but I feel it comes back to me in
the long run.....

--
I wish you all the best
Tim W

[[email protected]]

I must agree with you on that point. In this business there are some pests
that are hard to fight and then there are those that I would rather just
stay away from, Fleas is in the stay away catagory. If I can suggest
something for someone to purchase and use, as long as I know it is better
than what I can do I will always make those kind of suggestions. It may cost
me a couple of jobs every now and again but I feel it comes back to me in
the long run.....

--
I wish you all the best
Tim W

[[email protected]]

I must agree with you on that point. In this business there are some pests
that are hard to fight and then there are those that I would rather just
stay away from, Fleas is in the stay away catagory. If I can suggest
something for someone to purchase and use, as long as I know it is better
than what I can do I will always make those kind of suggestions. It may cost
me a couple of jobs every now and again but I feel it comes back to me in
the long run.....

--
I wish you all the best
Tim W

[Cheryl]

In t,
> composed with style:
> I must agree with you on that point. In this business there are
> some pests that are hard to fight and then there are those that I
> would rather just stay away from, Fleas is in the stay away
> catagory. If I can suggest something for someone to purchase and
> use, as long as I know it is better than what I can do I will
> always make those kind of suggestions. It may cost me a couple of
> jobs every now and again but I feel it comes back to me in the long
> run.....

What do you think of those lightbulb gadgets with a bowl of water
under it? Apparently it causes the fleas to be attracted to the light
and they jump toward it and end up in the bowl of water to drown.

[Cheryl]

In t,
> composed with style:
> I must agree with you on that point. In this business there are
> some pests that are hard to fight and then there are those that I
> would rather just stay away from, Fleas is in the stay away
> catagory. If I can suggest something for someone to purchase and
> use, as long as I know it is better than what I can do I will
> always make those kind of suggestions. It may cost me a couple of
> jobs every now and again but I feel it comes back to me in the long
> run.....

What do you think of those lightbulb gadgets with a bowl of water
under it? Apparently it causes the fleas to be attracted to the light
and they jump toward it and end up in the bowl of water to drown.

[Cheryl]

In t,
> composed with style:
> I must agree with you on that point. In this business there are
> some pests that are hard to fight and then there are those that I
> would rather just stay away from, Fleas is in the stay away
> catagory. If I can suggest something for someone to purchase and
> use, as long as I know it is better than what I can do I will
> always make those kind of suggestions. It may cost me a couple of
> jobs every now and again but I feel it comes back to me in the long
> run.....

What do you think of those lightbulb gadgets with a bowl of water
under it? Apparently it causes the fleas to be attracted to the light
and they jump toward it and end up in the bowl of water to drown.

[Philip ®]

In ,
Cheryl > being of bellicose mind posted:

>
> What do you think of those lightbulb gadgets with a bowl of water
> under it? Apparently it causes the fleas to be attracted to the
> light and they jump toward it and end up in the bowl of water to
> drown.

Wow! Never heard of such a thing! Wonder if a different version
would work against moths?
--

~~Philip

"Never let school interfere
with your education - Mark Twain"

[Philip ®]

In ,
Cheryl > being of bellicose mind posted:

>
> What do you think of those lightbulb gadgets with a bowl of water
> under it? Apparently it causes the fleas to be attracted to the
> light and they jump toward it and end up in the bowl of water to
> drown.

Wow! Never heard of such a thing! Wonder if a different version
would work against moths?
--

~~Philip

"Never let school interfere
with your education - Mark Twain"

[Philip ®]

In ,
Cheryl > being of bellicose mind posted:

>
> What do you think of those lightbulb gadgets with a bowl of water
> under it? Apparently it causes the fleas to be attracted to the
> light and they jump toward it and end up in the bowl of water to
> drown.

Wow! Never heard of such a thing! Wonder if a different version
would work against moths?
--

~~Philip

"Never let school interfere
with your education - Mark Twain"

[The Real Bev]

Lar wrote:
>
> In article >,
> says...
> :) > As a barrier around garden beds, it
> :) > discourages slugs and snails. Caution: only natural diatomaceous earth
> :) > should be used for pest control (not pool grade).
> :)
> :) Why?
> :)
> :)
> It is heated to point where the sharp edges are lost and
> the smaller particles will begin to bond together
> forming larger more uniform particles, better for
> filtering, but loses the desiccation benefits.

Thanks. I ALWAYS want to know why people say things like that.

Last week we bought a big package of Boraxo for a buck. Yesterday I
noticed some ants in the bathroom and dribbled some of it through their
trail No ants today, and I can still use it to wash my hands!

--
Cheers, Bev
================================================== =====================
"Windows Freedom Day: a holiday that moves each year, the date of which
is calculated by adding up the total amount of time a typical person
must spend restarting windows and then determining how many work weeks
that would correspond to." -- Trygve Lode

[The Real Bev]

Lar wrote:
>
> In article >,
> says...
> :) > As a barrier around garden beds, it
> :) > discourages slugs and snails. Caution: only natural diatomaceous earth
> :) > should be used for pest control (not pool grade).
> :)
> :) Why?
> :)
> :)
> It is heated to point where the sharp edges are lost and
> the smaller particles will begin to bond together
> forming larger more uniform particles, better for
> filtering, but loses the desiccation benefits.

Thanks. I ALWAYS want to know why people say things like that.

Last week we bought a big package of Boraxo for a buck. Yesterday I
noticed some ants in the bathroom and dribbled some of it through their
trail No ants today, and I can still use it to wash my hands!

--
Cheers, Bev
================================================== =====================
"Windows Freedom Day: a holiday that moves each year, the date of which
is calculated by adding up the total amount of time a typical person
must spend restarting windows and then determining how many work weeks
that would correspond to." -- Trygve Lode

[The Real Bev]

Lar wrote:
>
> In article >,
> says...
> :) > As a barrier around garden beds, it
> :) > discourages slugs and snails. Caution: only natural diatomaceous earth
> :) > should be used for pest control (not pool grade).
> :)
> :) Why?
> :)
> :)
> It is heated to point where the sharp edges are lost and
> the smaller particles will begin to bond together
> forming larger more uniform particles, better for
> filtering, but loses the desiccation benefits.

Thanks. I ALWAYS want to know why people say things like that.

Last week we bought a big package of Boraxo for a buck. Yesterday I
noticed some ants in the bathroom and dribbled some of it through their
trail No ants today, and I can still use it to wash my hands!

--
Cheers, Bev
================================================== =====================
"Windows Freedom Day: a holiday that moves each year, the date of which
is calculated by adding up the total amount of time a typical person
must spend restarting windows and then determining how many work weeks
that would correspond to." -- Trygve Lode

[[email protected]]

Cheryl, I have personally used those little gadgets and have found that yes
in fact they do work. They actually work quite well. I had a bad flea
problem in my home once after keeping the dogs out of the house while we
went on vacation, I used those traps and caught several glueboards full of
fleas. I recommend those to people that say they just simply cannot afford
Frontline or Advantage. I had a customer today as a matter of fact that I
treated for fleas, I was there yesterday and did not have the proper
supplies to do a flea treat so I went back today, I told them about the
light traps and they put 5 of them out last night and there were many many
fleas on them. I also recommend that in the water you put a table spoon of
Dawn dishwashing detergent. It helps the killing process along.

--
I wish you all the best
Tim W

[[email protected]]

Cheryl, I have personally used those little gadgets and have found that yes
in fact they do work. They actually work quite well. I had a bad flea
problem in my home once after keeping the dogs out of the house while we
went on vacation, I used those traps and caught several glueboards full of
fleas. I recommend those to people that say they just simply cannot afford
Frontline or Advantage. I had a customer today as a matter of fact that I
treated for fleas, I was there yesterday and did not have the proper
supplies to do a flea treat so I went back today, I told them about the
light traps and they put 5 of them out last night and there were many many
fleas on them. I also recommend that in the water you put a table spoon of
Dawn dishwashing detergent. It helps the killing process along.

--
I wish you all the best
Tim W

[[email protected]]

Cheryl, I have personally used those little gadgets and have found that yes
in fact they do work. They actually work quite well. I had a bad flea
problem in my home once after keeping the dogs out of the house while we
went on vacation, I used those traps and caught several glueboards full of
fleas. I recommend those to people that say they just simply cannot afford
Frontline or Advantage. I had a customer today as a matter of fact that I
treated for fleas, I was there yesterday and did not have the proper
supplies to do a flea treat so I went back today, I told them about the
light traps and they put 5 of them out last night and there were many many
fleas on them. I also recommend that in the water you put a table spoon of
Dawn dishwashing detergent. It helps the killing process along.

--
I wish you all the best
Tim W

[Cheryl]

In t,
> composed with style:
> Cheryl, I have personally used those little gadgets and have found
> that yes in fact they do work. They actually work quite well. I had
> a bad flea problem in my home once after keeping the dogs out of
> the house while we went on vacation, I used those traps and caught
> several glueboards full of fleas. I recommend those to people that
> say they just simply cannot afford Frontline or Advantage. I had a
> customer today as a matter of fact that I treated for fleas, I was
> there yesterday and did not have the proper supplies to do a flea
> treat so I went back today, I told them about the light traps and
> they put 5 of them out last night and there were many many fleas on
> them. I also recommend that in the water you put a table spoon of
> Dawn dishwashing detergent. It helps the killing process along.

Good tip on the Dawn, Tim. I haven't had a flea problem in years but
I've seen a lot of people suggest a flea comb for seriously infested
kittens and repeatedly dip the comb in water with Dawn to drown the
fleas while combing. Good to know those traps really work.

[Cheryl]

In t,
> composed with style:
> Cheryl, I have personally used those little gadgets and have found
> that yes in fact they do work. They actually work quite well. I had
> a bad flea problem in my home once after keeping the dogs out of
> the house while we went on vacation, I used those traps and caught
> several glueboards full of fleas. I recommend those to people that
> say they just simply cannot afford Frontline or Advantage. I had a
> customer today as a matter of fact that I treated for fleas, I was
> there yesterday and did not have the proper supplies to do a flea
> treat so I went back today, I told them about the light traps and
> they put 5 of them out last night and there were many many fleas on
> them. I also recommend that in the water you put a table spoon of
> Dawn dishwashing detergent. It helps the killing process along.

Good tip on the Dawn, Tim. I haven't had a flea problem in years but
I've seen a lot of people suggest a flea comb for seriously infested
kittens and repeatedly dip the comb in water with Dawn to drown the
fleas while combing. Good to know those traps really work.

[Cheryl]

In t,
> composed with style:
> Cheryl, I have personally used those little gadgets and have found
> that yes in fact they do work. They actually work quite well. I had
> a bad flea problem in my home once after keeping the dogs out of
> the house while we went on vacation, I used those traps and caught
> several glueboards full of fleas. I recommend those to people that
> say they just simply cannot afford Frontline or Advantage. I had a
> customer today as a matter of fact that I treated for fleas, I was
> there yesterday and did not have the proper supplies to do a flea
> treat so I went back today, I told them about the light traps and
> they put 5 of them out last night and there were many many fleas on
> them. I also recommend that in the water you put a table spoon of
> Dawn dishwashing detergent. It helps the killing process along.

Good tip on the Dawn, Tim. I haven't had a flea problem in years but
I've seen a lot of people suggest a flea comb for seriously infested
kittens and repeatedly dip the comb in water with Dawn to drown the
fleas while combing. Good to know those traps really work.

[Lar]

In article >,
says...
:) What do you think of those lightbulb gadgets with a bowl of water
:) under it? Apparently it causes the fleas to be attracted to the light
:) and they jump toward it and end up in the bowl of water to drown.
:)
:)
You don't have to go buy special traps either, just plug
in a night light in a wall outlet and put a cake/pie pan
of water and as Tim said, add a couple of drops of
liquid soap.
--

http://home.comcast.net/~larflu/owl1.jpg

Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!

[Lar]

In article >,
says...
:) What do you think of those lightbulb gadgets with a bowl of water
:) under it? Apparently it causes the fleas to be attracted to the light
:) and they jump toward it and end up in the bowl of water to drown.
:)
:)
You don't have to go buy special traps either, just plug
in a night light in a wall outlet and put a cake/pie pan
of water and as Tim said, add a couple of drops of
liquid soap.
--

http://home.comcast.net/~larflu/owl1.jpg

Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!

[Lar]

In article >,
says...
:) What do you think of those lightbulb gadgets with a bowl of water
:) under it? Apparently it causes the fleas to be attracted to the light
:) and they jump toward it and end up in the bowl of water to drown.
:)
:)
You don't have to go buy special traps either, just plug
in a night light in a wall outlet and put a cake/pie pan
of water and as Tim said, add a couple of drops of
liquid soap.
--

http://home.comcast.net/~larflu/owl1.jpg

Lar. (to e-mail, get rid of the BUGS!!

[Pete]

I think everyone is getting confused about the borates because we have
homeowners and PCO'S in the same thread. There are no borax ( Borate)
products available and labeled for use agianst fleas. Megan can go to
the grocery store everyday and buy detergent to apply into her carpet
but if I try the same thing as a flea treatment the hammer would fall.
There are many times when another product will work great on insect
problems ( dishwashing liquid for bee control comes to mind) but if it
is not registered, labeled and approved for either the pest or the site
then I cannot apply it. The local Fleabusters here in So Cal. used to
use a borate and pyrethrium powder combo until someone pointed out that
they advertised as not using insecticides. Now it is illegal to have
anything in your ads stating that your methods are "safe" or
"enviromentally friendly" or anything else along those lines. Borax does
work. It really can't be considered a cure all treatment for many
reasons. You can't use it on hard surface floors, it tends to damage
carpet ( very abrasive ), Shampooing or steamcleaning the carpet full of
borax is also exciting( better have a lot of the no foam additive handy)
Still if you are a homeowner doing it yourself then you will find the
borax method quite satisfactory.

Lar wrote:

> In article >,
> says...
> :) What do you think of those lightbulb gadgets with a bowl of water
> :) under it? Apparently it causes the fleas to be attracted to the light
> :) and they jump toward it and end up in the bowl of water to drown.
> :)
> :)
> You don't have to go buy special traps either, just plug
> in a night light in a wall outlet and put a cake/pie pan
> of water and as Tim said, add a couple of drops of
> liquid soap.

[Pete]

I think everyone is getting confused about the borates because we have
homeowners and PCO'S in the same thread. There are no borax ( Borate)
products available and labeled for use agianst fleas. Megan can go to
the grocery store everyday and buy detergent to apply into her carpet
but if I try the same thing as a flea treatment the hammer would fall.
There are many times when another product will work great on insect
problems ( dishwashing liquid for bee control comes to mind) but if it
is not registered, labeled and approved for either the pest or the site
then I cannot apply it. The local Fleabusters here in So Cal. used to
use a borate and pyrethrium powder combo until someone pointed out that
they advertised as not using insecticides. Now it is illegal to have
anything in your ads stating that your methods are "safe" or
"enviromentally friendly" or anything else along those lines. Borax does
work. It really can't be considered a cure all treatment for many
reasons. You can't use it on hard surface floors, it tends to damage
carpet ( very abrasive ), Shampooing or steamcleaning the carpet full of
borax is also exciting( better have a lot of the no foam additive handy)
Still if you are a homeowner doing it yourself then you will find the
borax method quite satisfactory.

Lar wrote:

> In article >,
> says...
> :) What do you think of those lightbulb gadgets with a bowl of water
> :) under it? Apparently it causes the fleas to be attracted to the light
> :) and they jump toward it and end up in the bowl of water to drown.
> :)
> :)
> You don't have to go buy special traps either, just plug
> in a night light in a wall outlet and put a cake/pie pan
> of water and as Tim said, add a couple of drops of
> liquid soap.

[Pete]

I think everyone is getting confused about the borates because we have
homeowners and PCO'S in the same thread. There are no borax ( Borate)
products available and labeled for use agianst fleas. Megan can go to
the grocery store everyday and buy detergent to apply into her carpet
but if I try the same thing as a flea treatment the hammer would fall.
There are many times when another product will work great on insect
problems ( dishwashing liquid for bee control comes to mind) but if it
is not registered, labeled and approved for either the pest or the site
then I cannot apply it. The local Fleabusters here in So Cal. used to
use a borate and pyrethrium powder combo until someone pointed out that
they advertised as not using insecticides. Now it is illegal to have
anything in your ads stating that your methods are "safe" or
"enviromentally friendly" or anything else along those lines. Borax does
work. It really can't be considered a cure all treatment for many
reasons. You can't use it on hard surface floors, it tends to damage
carpet ( very abrasive ), Shampooing or steamcleaning the carpet full of
borax is also exciting( better have a lot of the no foam additive handy)
Still if you are a homeowner doing it yourself then you will find the
borax method quite satisfactory.

Lar wrote:

> In article >,
> says...
> :) What do you think of those lightbulb gadgets with a bowl of water
> :) under it? Apparently it causes the fleas to be attracted to the light
> :) and they jump toward it and end up in the bowl of water to drown.
> :)
> :)
> You don't have to go buy special traps either, just plug
> in a night light in a wall outlet and put a cake/pie pan
> of water and as Tim said, add a couple of drops of
> liquid soap.

[PawsForThought]

>From: Pete

>
>I think everyone is getting confused about the borates because we have
>homeowners and PCO'S in the same thread. There are no borax ( Borate)
>products available and labeled for use agianst fleas. Megan can go to
>the grocery store everyday and buy detergent to apply into her carpet
>but if I try the same thing as a flea treatment the hammer would fall.
>There are many times when another product will work great on insect
>problems ( dishwashing liquid for bee control comes to mind) but if it
>is not registered, labeled and approved for either the pest or the site
>then I cannot apply it. The local Fleabusters here in So Cal. used to
>use a borate and pyrethrium powder combo until someone pointed out that
>they advertised as not using insecticides. Now it is illegal to have
>anything in your ads stating that your methods are "safe" or
>"enviromentally friendly" or anything else along those lines. Borax does
>work. It really can't be considered a cure all treatment for many
>reasons. You can't use it on hard surface floors, it tends to damage
>carpet ( very abrasive ), Shampooing or steamcleaning the carpet full of
>borax is also exciting( better have a lot of the no foam additive handy)
>Still if you are a homeowner doing it yourself then you will find the
>borax method quite satisfactory.

What about diatomaceous earth (food grade)? Wouldn't that be better than
Borax?
________
See my cats: http://community.webshots.com/album/56955940rWhxAe
Raw Diet Info: http://www.holisticat.com/drjletter.html
http://www.geocities.com/rawfeeders/ForCatsOnly.html
Declawing Info: http://www.wholecat.com/articles/claws.htm

[PawsForThought]

>From: Pete

>
>I think everyone is getting confused about the borates because we have
>homeowners and PCO'S in the same thread. There are no borax ( Borate)
>products available and labeled for use agianst fleas. Megan can go to
>the grocery store everyday and buy detergent to apply into her carpet
>but if I try the same thing as a flea treatment the hammer would fall.
>There are many times when another product will work great on insect
>problems ( dishwashing liquid for bee control comes to mind) but if it
>is not registered, labeled and approved for either the pest or the site
>then I cannot apply it. The local Fleabusters here in So Cal. used to
>use a borate and pyrethrium powder combo until someone pointed out that
>they advertised as not using insecticides. Now it is illegal to have
>anything in your ads stating that your methods are "safe" or
>"enviromentally friendly" or anything else along those lines. Borax does
>work. It really can't be considered a cure all treatment for many
>reasons. You can't use it on hard surface floors, it tends to damage
>carpet ( very abrasive ), Shampooing or steamcleaning the carpet full of
>borax is also exciting( better have a lot of the no foam additive handy)
>Still if you are a homeowner doing it yourself then you will find the
>borax method quite satisfactory.

What about diatomaceous earth (food grade)? Wouldn't that be better than
Borax?
________
See my cats: http://community.webshots.com/album/56955940rWhxAe
Raw Diet Info: http://www.holisticat.com/drjletter.html
http://www.geocities.com/rawfeeders/ForCatsOnly.html
Declawing Info: http://www.wholecat.com/articles/claws.htm

[PawsForThought]

>From: Pete

>
>I think everyone is getting confused about the borates because we have
>homeowners and PCO'S in the same thread. There are no borax ( Borate)
>products available and labeled for use agianst fleas. Megan can go to
>the grocery store everyday and buy detergent to apply into her carpet
>but if I try the same thing as a flea treatment the hammer would fall.
>There are many times when another product will work great on insect
>problems ( dishwashing liquid for bee control comes to mind) but if it
>is not registered, labeled and approved for either the pest or the site
>then I cannot apply it. The local Fleabusters here in So Cal. used to
>use a borate and pyrethrium powder combo until someone pointed out that
>they advertised as not using insecticides. Now it is illegal to have
>anything in your ads stating that your methods are "safe" or
>"enviromentally friendly" or anything else along those lines. Borax does
>work. It really can't be considered a cure all treatment for many
>reasons. You can't use it on hard surface floors, it tends to damage
>carpet ( very abrasive ), Shampooing or steamcleaning the carpet full of
>borax is also exciting( better have a lot of the no foam additive handy)
>Still if you are a homeowner doing it yourself then you will find the
>borax method quite satisfactory.

What about diatomaceous earth (food grade)? Wouldn't that be better than
Borax?
________
See my cats: http://community.webshots.com/album/56955940rWhxAe
Raw Diet Info: http://www.holisticat.com/drjletter.html
http://www.geocities.com/rawfeeders/ForCatsOnly.html
Declawing Info: http://www.wholecat.com/articles/claws.htm

[Philip ®]

In ,
PawsForThought > being of bellicose mind
posted:
>
> What about diatomaceous earth (food grade)? Wouldn't that be
> better than Borax?

What on earth are you eating? (pun)
--

~~Philip

"Never let school interfere
with your education - Mark Twain"

[Philip ®]

In ,
PawsForThought > being of bellicose mind
posted:
>
> What about diatomaceous earth (food grade)? Wouldn't that be
> better than Borax?

What on earth are you eating? (pun)
--

~~Philip

"Never let school interfere
with your education - Mark Twain"

[Philip ®]

In ,
PawsForThought > being of bellicose mind
posted:
>
> What about diatomaceous earth (food grade)? Wouldn't that be
> better than Borax?

What on earth are you eating? (pun)
--

~~Philip

"Never let school interfere
with your education - Mark Twain"

[PawsForThought]

>From: "Philip ®"

>PawsForThought > being of bellicose mind
>posted:
>>
>> What about diatomaceous earth (food grade)? Wouldn't that be
>> better than Borax?
>
>What on earth are you eating? (pun)
>--
>
> ~~Philip

Aaaargh! LOL
________
See my cats: http://community.webshots.com/album/56955940rWhxAe
Raw Diet Info: http://www.holisticat.com/drjletter.html
http://www.geocities.com/rawfeeders/ForCatsOnly.html
Declawing Info: http://www.wholecat.com/articles/claws.htm

[PawsForThought]

>From: "Philip ®"

>PawsForThought > being of bellicose mind
>posted:
>>
>> What about diatomaceous earth (food grade)? Wouldn't that be
>> better than Borax?
>
>What on earth are you eating? (pun)
>--
>
> ~~Philip

Aaaargh! LOL
________
See my cats: http://community.webshots.com/album/56955940rWhxAe
Raw Diet Info: http://www.holisticat.com/drjletter.html
http://www.geocities.com/rawfeeders/ForCatsOnly.html
Declawing Info: http://www.wholecat.com/articles/claws.htm

[PawsForThought]

>From: "Philip ®"

>PawsForThought > being of bellicose mind
>posted:
>>
>> What about diatomaceous earth (food grade)? Wouldn't that be
>> better than Borax?
>
>What on earth are you eating? (pun)
>--
>
> ~~Philip

Aaaargh! LOL
________
See my cats: http://community.webshots.com/album/56955940rWhxAe
Raw Diet Info: http://www.holisticat.com/drjletter.html
http://www.geocities.com/rawfeeders/ForCatsOnly.html
Declawing Info: http://www.wholecat.com/articles/claws.htm

[Bob]

> Instead of going with Borax or any of the Boric Acid products, there is a
> much simpler way to rid you home and pet of fleas. Go to the Vet and
> purchase Frontline, DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME on the over the counter products,
> get Frontline place the drops on the pet according to the label and within
> 48 to 72 hours your home should be flea free. When a customer calls me to
> come treat for Fleas I advise them to try the Frontline first, it is less
> that what I would be and what most of us don't want to admit, but it is the
> truth, it is more effective than we are. In the Pest Control Industry the
> key to any insect control is to treat them at the source, in this case it
> would be a pet. Take care of your pet and your pet will take care of you.
>
> Again though I must re-emphasize do not use the stuff you buy at Walmart or
> the local drug store, those are all repellents and will cause the fleas to
> jump off into your carpet and when you walk by they will still need to feed.
> Use the Frontline, you will be happy.

This is totally inaccurate. I bought Frontline PLUS (supposed to be
better than standard Frontline) and applied it to our dog 3 weeks ago
and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on
our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us.

[Bob]

> Instead of going with Borax or any of the Boric Acid products, there is a
> much simpler way to rid you home and pet of fleas. Go to the Vet and
> purchase Frontline, DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME on the over the counter products,
> get Frontline place the drops on the pet according to the label and within
> 48 to 72 hours your home should be flea free. When a customer calls me to
> come treat for Fleas I advise them to try the Frontline first, it is less
> that what I would be and what most of us don't want to admit, but it is the
> truth, it is more effective than we are. In the Pest Control Industry the
> key to any insect control is to treat them at the source, in this case it
> would be a pet. Take care of your pet and your pet will take care of you.
>
> Again though I must re-emphasize do not use the stuff you buy at Walmart or
> the local drug store, those are all repellents and will cause the fleas to
> jump off into your carpet and when you walk by they will still need to feed.
> Use the Frontline, you will be happy.

This is totally inaccurate. I bought Frontline PLUS (supposed to be
better than standard Frontline) and applied it to our dog 3 weeks ago
and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on
our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us.

[[email protected]]

Bob I sent you an email with a couple of questions that may answer why this
is not working. I am waiting for your reply.

Tim W

--
The obvious is not always what it seems to be. If you are to obvious people
will tend to turn away.

[[email protected]]

Bob I sent you an email with a couple of questions that may answer why this
is not working. I am waiting for your reply.

Tim W

--
The obvious is not always what it seems to be. If you are to obvious people
will tend to turn away.

[ZPL]

They are the newer ones hatching. Will take awhile to catch up with all of
the newly hatching ones. In another week, you can try Advantage instead of
the Frontline.

"Bob" > wrote in message
m...
> > Instead of going with Borax or any of the Boric Acid products, there is
a
> > much simpler way to rid you home and pet of fleas. Go to the Vet and
> > purchase Frontline, DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME on the over the counter
products,
> > get Frontline place the drops on the pet according to the label and
within
> > 48 to 72 hours your home should be flea free. When a customer calls me
to
> > come treat for Fleas I advise them to try the Frontline first, it is
less
> > that what I would be and what most of us don't want to admit, but it is
the
> > truth, it is more effective than we are. In the Pest Control Industry
the
> > key to any insect control is to treat them at the source, in this case
it
> > would be a pet. Take care of your pet and your pet will take care of
you.
> >
> > Again though I must re-emphasize do not use the stuff you buy at Walmart
or
> > the local drug store, those are all repellents and will cause the fleas
to
> > jump off into your carpet and when you walk by they will still need to
feed.
> > Use the Frontline, you will be happy.
>
> This is totally inaccurate. I bought Frontline PLUS (supposed to be
> better than standard Frontline) and applied it to our dog 3 weeks ago
> and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on
> our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us.

[ZPL]

They are the newer ones hatching. Will take awhile to catch up with all of
the newly hatching ones. In another week, you can try Advantage instead of
the Frontline.

"Bob" > wrote in message
m...
> > Instead of going with Borax or any of the Boric Acid products, there is
a
> > much simpler way to rid you home and pet of fleas. Go to the Vet and
> > purchase Frontline, DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME on the over the counter
products,
> > get Frontline place the drops on the pet according to the label and
within
> > 48 to 72 hours your home should be flea free. When a customer calls me
to
> > come treat for Fleas I advise them to try the Frontline first, it is
less
> > that what I would be and what most of us don't want to admit, but it is
the
> > truth, it is more effective than we are. In the Pest Control Industry
the
> > key to any insect control is to treat them at the source, in this case
it
> > would be a pet. Take care of your pet and your pet will take care of
you.
> >
> > Again though I must re-emphasize do not use the stuff you buy at Walmart
or
> > the local drug store, those are all repellents and will cause the fleas
to
> > jump off into your carpet and when you walk by they will still need to
feed.
> > Use the Frontline, you will be happy.
>
> This is totally inaccurate. I bought Frontline PLUS (supposed to be
> better than standard Frontline) and applied it to our dog 3 weeks ago
> and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on
> our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us.

[Marshall Dermer]

Frontline will kill the fleas on your dog. You have fleas and likely flea
eggs in your house. You need to use chemicals in your house to kill the
fleas and to stop the development (growth inhibitor) of the eggs.

Here in Milwaukee, I go to one of the old time hardware stores and
buy the requisite chemicals and spray them on the carpets, beds,
furniture of our house. Usually about $60 of chemicals covers our
2000 sq ft house.

--Marshall

[Marshall Dermer]

Frontline will kill the fleas on your dog. You have fleas and likely flea
eggs in your house. You need to use chemicals in your house to kill the
fleas and to stop the development (growth inhibitor) of the eggs.

Here in Milwaukee, I go to one of the old time hardware stores and
buy the requisite chemicals and spray them on the carpets, beds,
furniture of our house. Usually about $60 of chemicals covers our
2000 sq ft house.

--Marshall

[devildogokc]

Frontline will kill adult fleas...if you used it after noticing a problem
then you have eggs that will hatch about a week or two later. Need to treat
at 10 day intervals to kill new fleas as they hatch. Nothing will penetrate
a flea egg! Then stick with frontline to prevent further infestations.
"Bob" > wrote in message
m...
> > Instead of going with Borax or any of the Boric Acid products, there is
a
> > much simpler way to rid you home and pet of fleas. Go to the Vet and
> > purchase Frontline, DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME on the over the counter
products,
> > get Frontline place the drops on the pet according to the label and
within
> > 48 to 72 hours your home should be flea free. When a customer calls me
to
> > come treat for Fleas I advise them to try the Frontline first, it is
less
> > that what I would be and what most of us don't want to admit, but it is
the
> > truth, it is more effective than we are. In the Pest Control Industry
the
> > key to any insect control is to treat them at the source, in this case
it
> > would be a pet. Take care of your pet and your pet will take care of
you.
> >
> > Again though I must re-emphasize do not use the stuff you buy at Walmart
or
> > the local drug store, those are all repellents and will cause the fleas
to
> > jump off into your carpet and when you walk by they will still need to
feed.
> > Use the Frontline, you will be happy.
>
> This is totally inaccurate. I bought Frontline PLUS (supposed to be
> better than standard Frontline) and applied it to our dog 3 weeks ago
> and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on
> our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us.

[devildogokc]

Frontline will kill adult fleas...if you used it after noticing a problem
then you have eggs that will hatch about a week or two later. Need to treat
at 10 day intervals to kill new fleas as they hatch. Nothing will penetrate
a flea egg! Then stick with frontline to prevent further infestations.
"Bob" > wrote in message
m...
> > Instead of going with Borax or any of the Boric Acid products, there is
a
> > much simpler way to rid you home and pet of fleas. Go to the Vet and
> > purchase Frontline, DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME on the over the counter
products,
> > get Frontline place the drops on the pet according to the label and
within
> > 48 to 72 hours your home should be flea free. When a customer calls me
to
> > come treat for Fleas I advise them to try the Frontline first, it is
less
> > that what I would be and what most of us don't want to admit, but it is
the
> > truth, it is more effective than we are. In the Pest Control Industry
the
> > key to any insect control is to treat them at the source, in this case
it
> > would be a pet. Take care of your pet and your pet will take care of
you.
> >
> > Again though I must re-emphasize do not use the stuff you buy at Walmart
or
> > the local drug store, those are all repellents and will cause the fleas
to
> > jump off into your carpet and when you walk by they will still need to
feed.
> > Use the Frontline, you will be happy.
>
> This is totally inaccurate. I bought Frontline PLUS (supposed to be
> better than standard Frontline) and applied it to our dog 3 weeks ago
> and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on
> our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us.

[Violette]

>
> This is totally inaccurate. I bought Frontline PLUS (supposed to be
> better than standard Frontline) and applied it to our dog 3 weeks ago
> and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on
> our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us.

I noticed the same thing when using Frontline this year. They either
produced a bad batch, changed their formula, or fleas are becoming
resistant to the product.

We have 9 cats and a dog so flea control is petty important. I
finally ended up going back to the vet for a different
product...Ovitrol it kills adult fleas and has a growth inhibitor.
Voila no more fleas. As long as the animals are treated regularly,
they stay flea free. We also treated all of our carpets with borax.
Once a month, I also spray the area the dog frequents most with
ovitrol.

We have a white cat, she is our flea barometer, when I see a flea on
her I know it's time to treat everyone again. This allows us to
stretch flea treatment out a little longer than the directions
indicate....which i think is better for our animals.

[Violette]

>
> This is totally inaccurate. I bought Frontline PLUS (supposed to be
> better than standard Frontline) and applied it to our dog 3 weeks ago
> and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on
> our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us.

I noticed the same thing when using Frontline this year. They either
produced a bad batch, changed their formula, or fleas are becoming
resistant to the product.

We have 9 cats and a dog so flea control is petty important. I
finally ended up going back to the vet for a different
product...Ovitrol it kills adult fleas and has a growth inhibitor.
Voila no more fleas. As long as the animals are treated regularly,
they stay flea free. We also treated all of our carpets with borax.
Once a month, I also spray the area the dog frequents most with
ovitrol.

We have a white cat, she is our flea barometer, when I see a flea on
her I know it's time to treat everyone again. This allows us to
stretch flea treatment out a little longer than the directions
indicate....which i think is better for our animals.

[All In One Pest Control]

The problem could have been where you were constantly using Frontline, if
that was all you used. I use Frontline in the spring and summer and then
switch to advantage in the fall and winter. This way there isn't any
resistance built up from my house. The new Frontline is a good sales tool
only. That is just a personal opinion, but the thing it does over the
regular frontline is it supposedly kills Mosquitoes. You are not the first
person I have encountered that switched to the new stuff and found it did
not work as well as the original formulation. I stay with the original
formulation when using it. The Mosquito thing is a sales aspect because of
the fear built on the West Nile Virus and such. I am not saying it does not
kill mosquitoes but I simply don't think it is necessary. Again that is all
just a personal observation.


"Violette" > wrote in message
om...
> >
> > This is totally inaccurate. I bought Frontline PLUS (supposed to be
> > better than standard Frontline) and applied it to our dog 3 weeks ago
> > and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on
> > our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us.
>
> I noticed the same thing when using Frontline this year. They either
> produced a bad batch, changed their formula, or fleas are becoming
> resistant to the product.
>
> We have 9 cats and a dog so flea control is petty important. I
> finally ended up going back to the vet for a different
> product...Ovitrol it kills adult fleas and has a growth inhibitor.
> Voila no more fleas. As long as the animals are treated regularly,
> they stay flea free. We also treated all of our carpets with borax.
> Once a month, I also spray the area the dog frequents most with
> ovitrol.
>
> We have a white cat, she is our flea barometer, when I see a flea on
> her I know it's time to treat everyone again. This allows us to
> stretch flea treatment out a little longer than the directions
> indicate....which i think is better for our animals.

[All In One Pest Control]

The problem could have been where you were constantly using Frontline, if
that was all you used. I use Frontline in the spring and summer and then
switch to advantage in the fall and winter. This way there isn't any
resistance built up from my house. The new Frontline is a good sales tool
only. That is just a personal opinion, but the thing it does over the
regular frontline is it supposedly kills Mosquitoes. You are not the first
person I have encountered that switched to the new stuff and found it did
not work as well as the original formulation. I stay with the original
formulation when using it. The Mosquito thing is a sales aspect because of
the fear built on the West Nile Virus and such. I am not saying it does not
kill mosquitoes but I simply don't think it is necessary. Again that is all
just a personal observation.


"Violette" > wrote in message
om...
> >
> > This is totally inaccurate. I bought Frontline PLUS (supposed to be
> > better than standard Frontline) and applied it to our dog 3 weeks ago
> > and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on
> > our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us.
>
> I noticed the same thing when using Frontline this year. They either
> produced a bad batch, changed their formula, or fleas are becoming
> resistant to the product.
>
> We have 9 cats and a dog so flea control is petty important. I
> finally ended up going back to the vet for a different
> product...Ovitrol it kills adult fleas and has a growth inhibitor.
> Voila no more fleas. As long as the animals are treated regularly,
> they stay flea free. We also treated all of our carpets with borax.
> Once a month, I also spray the area the dog frequents most with
> ovitrol.
>
> We have a white cat, she is our flea barometer, when I see a flea on
> her I know it's time to treat everyone again. This allows us to
> stretch flea treatment out a little longer than the directions
> indicate....which i think is better for our animals.

[All In One Pest Control]

The problem could have been where you were constantly using Frontline, if
that was all you used. I use Frontline in the spring and summer and then
switch to advantage in the fall and winter. This way there isn't any
resistance built up from my house. The new Frontline is a good sales tool
only. That is just a personal opinion, but the thing it does over the
regular frontline is it supposedly kills Mosquitoes. You are not the first
person I have encountered that switched to the new stuff and found it did
not work as well as the original formulation. I stay with the original
formulation when using it. The Mosquito thing is a sales aspect because of
the fear built on the West Nile Virus and such. I am not saying it does not
kill mosquitoes but I simply don't think it is necessary. Again that is all
just a personal observation.


"Violette" > wrote in message
om...
> >
> > This is totally inaccurate. I bought Frontline PLUS (supposed to be
> > better than standard Frontline) and applied it to our dog 3 weeks ago
> > and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on
> > our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us.
>
> I noticed the same thing when using Frontline this year. They either
> produced a bad batch, changed their formula, or fleas are becoming
> resistant to the product.
>
> We have 9 cats and a dog so flea control is petty important. I
> finally ended up going back to the vet for a different
> product...Ovitrol it kills adult fleas and has a growth inhibitor.
> Voila no more fleas. As long as the animals are treated regularly,
> they stay flea free. We also treated all of our carpets with borax.
> Once a month, I also spray the area the dog frequents most with
> ovitrol.
>
> We have a white cat, she is our flea barometer, when I see a flea on
> her I know it's time to treat everyone again. This allows us to
> stretch flea treatment out a little longer than the directions
> indicate....which i think is better for our animals.

[Annie Wxill]

"All In One Pest Control" > wrote in message
...
.... The new Frontline is a good sales tool
> only. That is just a personal opinion, but the thing it does over the
> regular frontline is it supposedly kills Mosquitoes. ... The Mosquito
thing is a sales aspect because of
> the fear built on the West Nile Virus and such. I am not saying it does
not
> kill mosquitoes but I simply don't think it is necessary. Again that is
all
> just a personal observation.

I have never used Frontline on our cats, so I can't comment on its
effectiveness. The problem with mosquitoes and cats is not about West Nile.
It is about heartworm, which is likely to be fatal to cats. Because
mosquitoes in our area carry heartworm, we believe that protection is
important and necessary for our cats.
We used to use Advantage for fleas and Heartguard for heartworm. Now we use
Revolution, which protects against both those things and other parasites as
well.
Annie

[Annie Wxill]

"All In One Pest Control" > wrote in message
...
.... The new Frontline is a good sales tool
> only. That is just a personal opinion, but the thing it does over the
> regular frontline is it supposedly kills Mosquitoes. ... The Mosquito
thing is a sales aspect because of
> the fear built on the West Nile Virus and such. I am not saying it does
not
> kill mosquitoes but I simply don't think it is necessary. Again that is
all
> just a personal observation.

I have never used Frontline on our cats, so I can't comment on its
effectiveness. The problem with mosquitoes and cats is not about West Nile.
It is about heartworm, which is likely to be fatal to cats. Because
mosquitoes in our area carry heartworm, we believe that protection is
important and necessary for our cats.
We used to use Advantage for fleas and Heartguard for heartworm. Now we use
Revolution, which protects against both those things and other parasites as
well.
Annie

[Annie Wxill]

"All In One Pest Control" > wrote in message
...
.... The new Frontline is a good sales tool
> only. That is just a personal opinion, but the thing it does over the
> regular frontline is it supposedly kills Mosquitoes. ... The Mosquito
thing is a sales aspect because of
> the fear built on the West Nile Virus and such. I am not saying it does
not
> kill mosquitoes but I simply don't think it is necessary. Again that is
all
> just a personal observation.

I have never used Frontline on our cats, so I can't comment on its
effectiveness. The problem with mosquitoes and cats is not about West Nile.
It is about heartworm, which is likely to be fatal to cats. Because
mosquitoes in our area carry heartworm, we believe that protection is
important and necessary for our cats.
We used to use Advantage for fleas and Heartguard for heartworm. Now we use
Revolution, which protects against both those things and other parasites as
well.
Annie

[Yngver]

"Annie Wxill" wrote:

>I have never used Frontline on our cats, so I can't comment on its
>effectiveness. The problem with mosquitoes and cats is not about West Nile.
>It is about heartworm, which is likely to be fatal to cats. Because
>mosquitoes in our area carry heartworm, we believe that protection is
>important and necessary for our cats.
>We used to use Advantage for fleas and Heartguard for heartworm. Now we use
>Revolution, which protects against both those things and other parasites as
>well.
>Annie
>
I agree. Cats are at little or no risk for WNV, but they are at risk for
heartworm. We also use Revolution to protect against heartworm. Our cats have
never had fleas, so we don't use it for that, but when we brought in a stray
that had a severe case of ear mites, we were glad our cats were already on
Revolution.

[Yngver]

"Annie Wxill" wrote:

>I have never used Frontline on our cats, so I can't comment on its
>effectiveness. The problem with mosquitoes and cats is not about West Nile.
>It is about heartworm, which is likely to be fatal to cats. Because
>mosquitoes in our area carry heartworm, we believe that protection is
>important and necessary for our cats.
>We used to use Advantage for fleas and Heartguard for heartworm. Now we use
>Revolution, which protects against both those things and other parasites as
>well.
>Annie
>
I agree. Cats are at little or no risk for WNV, but they are at risk for
heartworm. We also use Revolution to protect against heartworm. Our cats have
never had fleas, so we don't use it for that, but when we brought in a stray
that had a severe case of ear mites, we were glad our cats were already on
Revolution.

[Yngver]

"Annie Wxill" wrote:

>I have never used Frontline on our cats, so I can't comment on its
>effectiveness. The problem with mosquitoes and cats is not about West Nile.
>It is about heartworm, which is likely to be fatal to cats. Because
>mosquitoes in our area carry heartworm, we believe that protection is
>important and necessary for our cats.
>We used to use Advantage for fleas and Heartguard for heartworm. Now we use
>Revolution, which protects against both those things and other parasites as
>well.
>Annie
>
I agree. Cats are at little or no risk for WNV, but they are at risk for
heartworm. We also use Revolution to protect against heartworm. Our cats have
never had fleas, so we don't use it for that, but when we brought in a stray
that had a severe case of ear mites, we were glad our cats were already on
Revolution.

[news.verizon.net]

I tried this product for flea control and it really worked. I have 2 dogs,
10 cats and a few foster cats. Go to www.fleatreat.com

"devildogokc" > wrote in message
news:zHerb.2620$jt.1461@okepread05...
> Frontline will kill adult fleas...if you used it after noticing a problem
> then you have eggs that will hatch about a week or two later. Need to
treat
> at 10 day intervals to kill new fleas as they hatch. Nothing will
penetrate
> a flea egg! Then stick with frontline to prevent further infestations.
> "Bob" > wrote in message
> m...
> > > Instead of going with Borax or any of the Boric Acid products, there
is
> a
> > > much simpler way to rid you home and pet of fleas. Go to the Vet and
> > > purchase Frontline, DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME on the over the counter
> products,
> > > get Frontline place the drops on the pet according to the label and
> within
> > > 48 to 72 hours your home should be flea free. When a customer calls me
> to
> > > come treat for Fleas I advise them to try the Frontline first, it is
> less
> > > that what I would be and what most of us don't want to admit, but it
is
> the
> > > truth, it is more effective than we are. In the Pest Control Industry
> the
> > > key to any insect control is to treat them at the source, in this case
> it
> > > would be a pet. Take care of your pet and your pet will take care of
> you.
> > >
> > > Again though I must re-emphasize do not use the stuff you buy at
Walmart
> or
> > > the local drug store, those are all repellents and will cause the
fleas
> to
> > > jump off into your carpet and when you walk by they will still need to
> feed.
> > > Use the Frontline, you will be happy.
> >
> > This is totally inaccurate. I bought Frontline PLUS (supposed to be
> > better than standard Frontline) and applied it to our dog 3 weeks ago
> > and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on
> > our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us.
>
>

[news.verizon.net]

I tried this product for flea control and it really worked. I have 2 dogs,
10 cats and a few foster cats. Go to www.fleatreat.com

"devildogokc" > wrote in message
news:zHerb.2620$jt.1461@okepread05...
> Frontline will kill adult fleas...if you used it after noticing a problem
> then you have eggs that will hatch about a week or two later. Need to
treat
> at 10 day intervals to kill new fleas as they hatch. Nothing will
penetrate
> a flea egg! Then stick with frontline to prevent further infestations.
> "Bob" > wrote in message
> m...
> > > Instead of going with Borax or any of the Boric Acid products, there
is
> a
> > > much simpler way to rid you home and pet of fleas. Go to the Vet and
> > > purchase Frontline, DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME on the over the counter
> products,
> > > get Frontline place the drops on the pet according to the label and
> within
> > > 48 to 72 hours your home should be flea free. When a customer calls me
> to
> > > come treat for Fleas I advise them to try the Frontline first, it is
> less
> > > that what I would be and what most of us don't want to admit, but it
is
> the
> > > truth, it is more effective than we are. In the Pest Control Industry
> the
> > > key to any insect control is to treat them at the source, in this case
> it
> > > would be a pet. Take care of your pet and your pet will take care of
> you.
> > >
> > > Again though I must re-emphasize do not use the stuff you buy at
Walmart
> or
> > > the local drug store, those are all repellents and will cause the
fleas
> to
> > > jump off into your carpet and when you walk by they will still need to
> feed.
> > > Use the Frontline, you will be happy.
> >
> > This is totally inaccurate. I bought Frontline PLUS (supposed to be
> > better than standard Frontline) and applied it to our dog 3 weeks ago
> > and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on
> > our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us.
>
>

[news.verizon.net]

I tried this product for flea control and it really worked. I have 2 dogs,
10 cats and a few foster cats. Go to www.fleatreat.com

"devildogokc" > wrote in message
news:zHerb.2620$jt.1461@okepread05...
> Frontline will kill adult fleas...if you used it after noticing a problem
> then you have eggs that will hatch about a week or two later. Need to
treat
> at 10 day intervals to kill new fleas as they hatch. Nothing will
penetrate
> a flea egg! Then stick with frontline to prevent further infestations.
> "Bob" > wrote in message
> m...
> > > Instead of going with Borax or any of the Boric Acid products, there
is
> a
> > > much simpler way to rid you home and pet of fleas. Go to the Vet and
> > > purchase Frontline, DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME on the over the counter
> products,
> > > get Frontline place the drops on the pet according to the label and
> within
> > > 48 to 72 hours your home should be flea free. When a customer calls me
> to
> > > come treat for Fleas I advise them to try the Frontline first, it is
> less
> > > that what I would be and what most of us don't want to admit, but it
is
> the
> > > truth, it is more effective than we are. In the Pest Control Industry
> the
> > > key to any insect control is to treat them at the source, in this case
> it
> > > would be a pet. Take care of your pet and your pet will take care of
> you.
> > >
> > > Again though I must re-emphasize do not use the stuff you buy at
Walmart
> or
> > > the local drug store, those are all repellents and will cause the
fleas
> to
> > > jump off into your carpet and when you walk by they will still need to
> feed.
> > > Use the Frontline, you will be happy.
> >
> > This is totally inaccurate. I bought Frontline PLUS (supposed to be
> > better than standard Frontline) and applied it to our dog 3 weeks ago
> > and she now has many fleas and we cannot sleep in our bed or sit on
> > our couch without almost contantly feeling fleas crawling on us.
>
>