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View Full Version : Repellent: Methyl Nonyl Ketone?


Juls
October 25th 05, 12:52 AM
I'm getting ready to order one of those laser mice toys from Drs.
Foster and Smith (our Pet Smart is out of stock until the holidays) and
am tempted to order some of that spray cat repellent that contains
Methyl Nonyl Ketone. They have a can for about five dollars.

Has anyone used this, does it work, and is it safe?

I've got a couple of spots I'm trying to keep Jazz out of, like behind
the TV where the electrical and cable wires are. She thinks the wires
are great fun, and I can't come up with a way to make a barricade. I've
tried to distract her with other things, including a cheap cat tree
from Wal Mart (that is being returned, in favor of one I'll probably
have to make myself). But once she zeroes in on something, there's just
no stopping her.

So I was wondering about this stuff you spray. Oh, I read somewhere
online that cats hate lavender, and I've got tons of it outside...both
cats loved it and drug it around everywhere. I've also read about
vinegar, but being so close to electrical stuff, I'm afraid she'd see
it and immediately dive in.

Thanks, Juls

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No More Retail
October 25th 05, 01:02 AM
Archive-name: cats-faq/behavior
URL: http://www.fanciers.com/cat-faqs/behavior.html
Last-modified: 16 Jul 1999

=======
The latest versions of these FAQ's may be obtained via the Web at
http://www.fanciers.com/cat-faqs/

The multiple posted (ASCII) parts of the FAQ are all archived at
rtfm.mit.edu
(18.181.0.24) in the directory /pub/usenet/news.answers/cats-faq. These
files will also appear in other sites that mirror the RTFM archives.
==========


Problem Behaviors in Cats

Note: Please see the [1]Table of Contents FAQ for a complete list of
topics.

Cord (and Other) Chewing

Put something distasteful on the cord to discourage chewing.
Substances to try: tabasco sauce, cayenne pepper, Bitter Apple/Orange,
nail-biting nailpolish, orange/lemon peel. If you cannot find a
substance that will repel your cat, you may wish to use gaffer's tape
to secure exposed cords. Gaffer's tape comes in a variety of colors
and you will probably be able to find something relatively
inconspicuous. (Duct tape can also be used, but it's pretty messy and
hard to clean up if you're moving out of an apartment. Consider
permanent wiring if you own your place: installment behind walls, etc.

This will work on other chewed items, as well, although you will need
to check the compatibility of the chewed item with the substance you
put on it.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Joe Canuck
October 25th 05, 01:54 AM
Juls wrote:

> I'm getting ready to order one of those laser mice toys from Drs.
> Foster and Smith (our Pet Smart is out of stock until the holidays) and
> am tempted to order some of that spray cat repellent that contains
> Methyl Nonyl Ketone. They have a can for about five dollars.
>
> Has anyone used this, does it work, and is it safe?
>
> I've got a couple of spots I'm trying to keep Jazz out of, like behind
> the TV where the electrical and cable wires are. She thinks the wires
> are great fun, and I can't come up with a way to make a barricade. I've
> tried to distract her with other things, including a cheap cat tree
> from Wal Mart (that is being returned, in favor of one I'll probably
> have to make myself). But once she zeroes in on something, there's just
> no stopping her.
>
> So I was wondering about this stuff you spray. Oh, I read somewhere
> online that cats hate lavender, and I've got tons of it outside...both
> cats loved it and drug it around everywhere. I've also read about
> vinegar, but being so close to electrical stuff, I'm afraid she'd see
> it and immediately dive in.
>
> Thanks, Juls
>

Methyl Nonyl Ketone is considered a pesticide.

My cat loves to chew on cables, but I would not consider using this
stuff to keep her away from them.

I have spent a lot of time engaged in cable management to minimize or
eliminate the exposure. Providing alternatives, such as straws, works
well with my cat. She loves to chew on straws so I always leave a few on
the floor.

No More Retail
October 25th 05, 01:55 AM
What is a straw I have seen one in my house since 1982

Juls
October 25th 05, 02:07 AM
Wow, I'd never seen this FAQ before...some interesting tips there. (But
many aren't helpful for a deaf cat, who can't hear a shaking can of
coins)

I've tried a little squirt gun on her, but I think she likes it.

With the big diffenbachia I had, that needed to be brought inside for
winter, I finally had to move it to the basement today. (They don't go
in the basement) The foil did a good job in stopping her digging, but
then she got mad and started trying to climb it. She broke off about
half the leaves and I couldn't find a place to put it where she'd leave
it alone. I put the shamrocks down there too...she thought they were
delicious. Dmitri used to think the same, and once ate an entire plant
before I caught him. They just love those shamrocks! Oh, and the spider
plants, too, but those I've been able to hide from her by putting them
on top of a high bookshelf and hiding the many baby spiders behind the
plant. I also got them a new grass plant, but they always seem to lose
interest in that after the first day. Jack doesn't bother the other
plants.

I'll try the tabasco sauce, but I'm still wondering if this product
being sold is effective and safe. They have it at Pet Smart too, but
was three times the price as this can at Drs. F&S.

In article >, "No More
Retail" > wrote:

> Archive-name: cats-faq/behavior
> URL: http://www.fanciers.com/cat-faqs/behavior.html
> Last-modified: 16 Jul 1999
>
> =======
> The latest versions of these FAQ's may be obtained via the Web at
> http://www.fanciers.com/cat-faqs/
>
> The multiple posted (ASCII) parts of the FAQ are all archived at
> rtfm.mit.edu
> (18.181.0.24) in the directory /pub/usenet/news.answers/cats-faq. These
> files will also appear in other sites that mirror the RTFM archives.
> ==========
>
>
> Problem Behaviors in Cats
>
> Note: Please see the [1]Table of Contents FAQ for a complete list of
> topics.
>
> Cord (and Other) Chewing
>
> Put something distasteful on the cord to discourage chewing.
> Substances to try: tabasco sauce, cayenne pepper, Bitter Apple/Orange,
> nail-biting nailpolish, orange/lemon peel. If you cannot find a
> substance that will repel your cat, you may wish to use gaffer's tape
> to secure exposed cords. Gaffer's tape comes in a variety of colors
> and you will probably be able to find something relatively
> inconspicuous. (Duct tape can also be used, but it's pretty messy and
> hard to clean up if you're moving out of an apartment. Consider
> permanent wiring if you own your place: installment behind walls, etc.
>
> This will work on other chewed items, as well, although you will need
> to check the compatibility of the chewed item with the substance you
> put on it.
> __________________________________________________ _______________

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Juls
October 25th 05, 02:24 AM
In article >, Joe Canuck
> wrote:

> Methyl Nonyl Ketone is considered a pesticide.

Okay, thanks. That answers my question...I'll do alternatives.

WTF are they selling it if it's a pesticide??? That sucks.

I was tempted to try little paper plates sprinkled with this stuff I
used on my garden to keep rabbits out. It's made from coyote urine.
LOL. (It doesn't really stink unless you stick your face in it, then
there's a slight odor) Good stuff, but it ran all the rabbits
completely away. I just didn't want them to eat my garden, but I
enjoyed watching them frolic in the yard.

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Phil P.
October 25th 05, 02:33 AM
"Juls" > wrote in message
...


> I've got a couple of spots I'm trying to keep Jazz out of, like behind
> the TV where the electrical and cable wires are. She thinks the wires
> are great fun, and I can't come up with a way to make a barricade.

Juls,

Go to an automotive supply store and buy a few yards of vacuum hosing- it
comes on a roll (very flexible) and in a variety of inside diameters from
1/8" to about 1". Cut the hosing in the lengths of the wires; cut a slit
down the length of the hosing and put the wires inside.

You can also use plastic tubing that you can buy a Home Depot, but I prefer
vacuum hosing because the hoses are very strong and walls of the hosing are
very thick- thicker than the length of a cat's carnassial teeth. Vacuum
hosing is very inexpensive and very easy to work with- its so flexible that
you can even tie it into a tight knot.

Phil

Juls
October 25th 05, 03:39 AM
In article >, "Phil P."
> wrote:

> "Juls" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>
> > I've got a couple of spots I'm trying to keep Jazz out of, like behind
> > the TV where the electrical and cable wires are. She thinks the wires
> > are great fun, and I can't come up with a way to make a barricade.
>
> Juls,
>
> Go to an automotive supply store and buy a few yards of vacuum hosing- it
> comes on a roll (very flexible) and in a variety of inside diameters from
> 1/8" to about 1". Cut the hosing in the lengths of the wires; cut a slit
> down the length of the hosing and put the wires inside.
>
> You can also use plastic tubing that you can buy a Home Depot, but I prefer
> vacuum hosing because the hoses are very strong and walls of the hosing are
> very thick- thicker than the length of a cat's carnassial teeth. Vacuum
> hosing is very inexpensive and very easy to work with- its so flexible that
> you can even tie it into a tight knot.
>
> Phil

Oh wow, that's a great idea. I could do the same with computer cables,
too.

Any ideas for the space between the wall and the fridge? I tried a
piece of cardboard to fit, and she tore it down pretty quickly. For
some reason, she likes to sleep *behind* the refrigerator. It took me a
long time to figure out where she was hiding when she would disappear.
I knew she was sleeping somewhere, but hadn't thought of behind the
fridge until I heard her coming out one day...and there she came. When
she disappears, now I can go to the kitchen and jump up and down really
hard on the floor and the vibrations wake her, but it's not a place I
want her to be.


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Phil P.
October 25th 05, 04:58 AM
"Juls" > wrote in message
...
> In article >, "Phil P."
> > wrote:
>
> > "Juls" > wrote in message
> > ...
> >
> >
> > > I've got a couple of spots I'm trying to keep Jazz out of, like behind
> > > the TV where the electrical and cable wires are. She thinks the wires
> > > are great fun, and I can't come up with a way to make a barricade.
> >
> > Juls,
> >
> > Go to an automotive supply store and buy a few yards of vacuum hosing-
it
> > comes on a roll (very flexible) and in a variety of inside diameters
from
> > 1/8" to about 1". Cut the hosing in the lengths of the wires; cut a
slit
> > down the length of the hosing and put the wires inside.
> >
> > You can also use plastic tubing that you can buy a Home Depot, but I
prefer
> > vacuum hosing because the hoses are very strong and walls of the hosing
are
> > very thick- thicker than the length of a cat's carnassial teeth. Vacuum
> > hosing is very inexpensive and very easy to work with- its so flexible
that
> > you can even tie it into a tight knot.
> >
> > Phil
>
> Oh wow, that's a great idea. I could do the same with computer cables,
> too.


The best part about using vacuum hosing or tubing is you don't have to
disconnect all the wires. After you make the slit, just slide the hosing
over the wires. You can also put several wires inside one hose if the wires
go to the same place.

>
> Any ideas for the space between the wall and the fridge? I tried a
> piece of cardboard to fit,

You shouldn't block the space behind the fridge with a solid object because
it will also restrict air flow and cause the fridge motor to overheat and
possibly burn out.

While you're at home depot, buy a 4'H x 10L' roll of metal fencing (similar
to chicken wire) that has 1/2" square openings- they're too small for a
cat's paws to get stuck in. Don't unroll the fencing- just stand it up and
wedge it between the wall and the fridge- do the other of the side of fridge
the same way. The fencing will keep the cats out while still allowing air to
circulate behind the fridge. The rolls are hardly noticeable.

Some fencing comes wrapped in plastic packages. In this case, peel down a
few inches of the package and put a few layers of tape around the roll-
about an inch or two from the top of the roll so it doesn't unwind. Do the
same
on the other end. After both ends are taped, take the rest of the plastic
packaging off and wrap a few layers of tape around the middle of the roll.
Now the roll won't unwind. Wedge it between the wall and fridge. That ought
to do it.

Phil

Juls
October 25th 05, 06:50 AM
In article >, "Phil P."
> wrote:

> You shouldn't block the space behind the fridge with a solid object because
> it will also restrict air flow and cause the fridge motor to overheat and
> possibly burn out.
>
> While you're at home depot, buy a 4'H x 10L' roll of metal fencing (similar
> to chicken wire) that has 1/2" square openings- they're too small for a
> cat's paws to get stuck in. Don't unroll the fencing- just stand it up and
> wedge it between the wall and the fridge- do the other of the side of fridge
> the same way. The fencing will keep the cats out while still allowing air to
> circulate behind the fridge. The rolls are hardly noticeable.
>
> Some fencing comes wrapped in plastic packages. In this case, peel down a
> few inches of the package and put a few layers of tape around the roll-
> about an inch or two from the top of the roll so it doesn't unwind. Do the
> same
> on the other end. After both ends are taped, take the rest of the plastic
> packaging off and wrap a few layers of tape around the middle of the roll.
> Now the roll won't unwind. Wedge it between the wall and fridge. That ought
> to do it.

Fantastic! Thank you.

Now, could you come over and build me a custom cat tree??

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Phil P.
October 25th 05, 10:03 AM
"Juls" > wrote in message
...
> In article >, "Phil P."
> > wrote:
>
> > You shouldn't block the space behind the fridge with a solid object
because
> > it will also restrict air flow and cause the fridge motor to overheat
and
> > possibly burn out.
> >
> > While you're at home depot, buy a 4'H x 10L' roll of metal fencing
(similar
> > to chicken wire) that has 1/2" square openings- they're too small for a
> > cat's paws to get stuck in. Don't unroll the fencing- just stand it up
and
> > wedge it between the wall and the fridge- do the other of the side of
fridge
> > the same way. The fencing will keep the cats out while still allowing
air to
> > circulate behind the fridge. The rolls are hardly noticeable.
> >
> > Some fencing comes wrapped in plastic packages. In this case, peel down
a
> > few inches of the package and put a few layers of tape around the roll-
> > about an inch or two from the top of the roll so it doesn't unwind. Do
the
> > same
> > on the other end. After both ends are taped, take the rest of the
plastic
> > packaging off and wrap a few layers of tape around the middle of the
roll.
> > Now the roll won't unwind. Wedge it between the wall and fridge. That
ought
> > to do it.
>
> Fantastic! Thank you.


You could probably create barriers on both sides of the fridge from one roll
of fencing. Just use half a roll on each side. Make the diameter of the
rolls a lot wider than the space between the wall and fridge so they will
fit very tightly when you wedge them in.

A 4' x 10' roll of galvanized wire fencing shouldn't cost more than $10-$15.
That's what I used to build the outside pen for my cats. I stapled the
fencing to the inside of the 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" framing and I stapled heavy
duty screening to the outside of the frame. Keeps the bugs off the cats and
out of my house and also creates a "no man's land" between the screening and
fencing so other animals can't come in contact with my cats through the
fencing.


>
> Now, could you come over and build me a custom cat tree??


No- but I can show you how to build a cat tree and high-level walkway that
your cats will love for less than $100 using wall shelving or bookcase kits.

Screw two 6' or 8' double-slotted heavy-duty uprights into your walls. Wall
studs are usually spaced 18" apart center-to-center- so you can make the
columns as wide or as narrow as you want. Cover the shelves with pieces of
carpet remnants- or you can by a small 9x12' closeout carpet for $25-$30.
Cut round or square holes in the shelves with a jig saw. Stagger the holes:
cut a hole in the left end of the 2nd shelf, right side in the 3rd, left
side in the 4th and so on- as high as you want or about a foot from the
ceiling. Screw the shelves into the brackets from the bottom side of the
shelf so they don't move. Make sure the screws aren't too long- otherwise
the points will come through the top. If you use 3/4" luann plywood, use
1/2" or 5/8" screws, for 1/2" luann- use 3/8"screws. You can make little
hidey-holes by covering the front of a few shelves and covering the front
panels with carpet. Luann is very strong and very light weight.

Give your cats a real treat and build 2 columns- one on each side of a
window. Use a long piece of shelving for the top and middle shelves to
create bridges across the window- the middle bridge makes a great perch for
the cats to look out the window. The bridges will also provide escape
routes to the right column for a cat to come down in case the other cat is
blocking the way down on the left column. They also give the cats a great
place to chase each other- up one column across the bridges and down the
other column.

Take a look at these illustrations. When you see what they look like,
you'll see how *easy* they are to build.

http://www.maxshouse.com/Environmental_Enrichment/Wall-shelves_high-level_walkways.jpg

http://www.maxshouse.com/Environmental_Enrichment/Bookcases_high-level_walkways.jpg

Phil.

Ramboyd
October 25th 05, 02:15 PM
"Phil P." wrote:

> "Juls" > wrote in message
> ...
> > In article >, "Phil P."
> > > wrote:
> >
> > > You shouldn't block the space behind the fridge with a solid object
> because
> > > it will also restrict air flow and cause the fridge motor to overheat
> and
> > > possibly burn out.
> > >
> > > While you're at home depot, buy a 4'H x 10L' roll of metal fencing
> (similar
> > > to chicken wire) that has 1/2" square openings- they're too small for a
> > > cat's paws to get stuck in. Don't unroll the fencing- just stand it up
> and
> > > wedge it between the wall and the fridge- do the other of the side of
> fridge
> > > the same way. The fencing will keep the cats out while still allowing
> air to
> > > circulate behind the fridge. The rolls are hardly noticeable.
> > >
> > > Some fencing comes wrapped in plastic packages. In this case, peel down
> a
> > > few inches of the package and put a few layers of tape around the roll-
> > > about an inch or two from the top of the roll so it doesn't unwind. Do
> the
> > > same
> > > on the other end. After both ends are taped, take the rest of the
> plastic
> > > packaging off and wrap a few layers of tape around the middle of the
> roll.
> > > Now the roll won't unwind. Wedge it between the wall and fridge. That
> ought
> > > to do it.
> >
> > Fantastic! Thank you.
>
> You could probably create barriers on both sides of the fridge from one roll
> of fencing. Just use half a roll on each side. Make the diameter of the
> rolls a lot wider than the space between the wall and fridge so they will
> fit very tightly when you wedge them in.
>
> A 4' x 10' roll of galvanized wire fencing shouldn't cost more than $10-$15.
> That's what I used to build the outside pen for my cats. I stapled the
> fencing to the inside of the 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" framing and I stapled heavy
> duty screening to the outside of the frame. Keeps the bugs off the cats and
> out of my house and also creates a "no man's land" between the screening and
> fencing so other animals can't come in contact with my cats through the
> fencing.
>
> >
> > Now, could you come over and build me a custom cat tree??
>
> No- but I can show you how to build a cat tree and high-level walkway that
> your cats will love for less than $100 using wall shelving or bookcase kits.
>
> Screw two 6' or 8' double-slotted heavy-duty uprights into your walls. Wall
> studs are usually spaced 18" apart center-to-center- so you can make the
> columns as wide or as narrow as you want. Cover the shelves with pieces of
> carpet remnants- or you can by a small 9x12' closeout carpet for $25-$30.
> Cut round or square holes in the shelves with a jig saw. Stagger the holes:
> cut a hole in the left end of the 2nd shelf, right side in the 3rd, left
> side in the 4th and so on- as high as you want or about a foot from the
> ceiling. Screw the shelves into the brackets from the bottom side of the
> shelf so they don't move. Make sure the screws aren't too long- otherwise
> the points will come through the top. If you use 3/4" luann plywood, use
> 1/2" or 5/8" screws, for 1/2" luann- use 3/8"screws. You can make little
> hidey-holes by covering the front of a few shelves and covering the front
> panels with carpet. Luann is very strong and very light weight.
>
> Give your cats a real treat and build 2 columns- one on each side of a
> window. Use a long piece of shelving for the top and middle shelves to
> create bridges across the window- the middle bridge makes a great perch for
> the cats to look out the window. The bridges will also provide escape
> routes to the right column for a cat to come down in case the other cat is
> blocking the way down on the left column. They also give the cats a great
> place to chase each other- up one column across the bridges and down the
> other column.
>
> Take a look at these illustrations. When you see what they look like,
> you'll see how *easy* they are to build.
>
> http://www.maxshouse.com/Environmental_Enrichment/Wall-shelves_high-level_walkways.jpg
>
> http://www.maxshouse.com/Environmental_Enrichment/Bookcases_high-level_walkways.jpg
>
> Phil.

I might add, you can pick up carpet for free at major carpet stores. They often throw out
carpet from wall to wall installation jobs. Just check out the dumpster bin after the
store closes.

Ramboyd

======

"My Ottawa Includes Corruption"

Juls
October 25th 05, 05:41 PM
So helpful, Phil! Thanks....and I've actually got a roll of new carpet
in the basement I can use! (leftover, just sitting there) This is
really a neat looking project.

In article >, "Phil P."
> wrote:

> "Juls" > wrote in message
> ...
> > In article >, "Phil P."
> > > wrote:
> >
> > > You shouldn't block the space behind the fridge with a solid object
> because
> > > it will also restrict air flow and cause the fridge motor to overheat
> and
> > > possibly burn out.
> > >
> > > While you're at home depot, buy a 4'H x 10L' roll of metal fencing
> (similar
> > > to chicken wire) that has 1/2" square openings- they're too small for a
> > > cat's paws to get stuck in. Don't unroll the fencing- just stand it up
> and
> > > wedge it between the wall and the fridge- do the other of the side of
> fridge
> > > the same way. The fencing will keep the cats out while still allowing
> air to
> > > circulate behind the fridge. The rolls are hardly noticeable.
> > >
> > > Some fencing comes wrapped in plastic packages. In this case, peel down
> a
> > > few inches of the package and put a few layers of tape around the roll-
> > > about an inch or two from the top of the roll so it doesn't unwind. Do
> the
> > > same
> > > on the other end. After both ends are taped, take the rest of the
> plastic
> > > packaging off and wrap a few layers of tape around the middle of the
> roll.
> > > Now the roll won't unwind. Wedge it between the wall and fridge. That
> ought
> > > to do it.
> >
> > Fantastic! Thank you.
>
>
> You could probably create barriers on both sides of the fridge from one roll
> of fencing. Just use half a roll on each side. Make the diameter of the
> rolls a lot wider than the space between the wall and fridge so they will
> fit very tightly when you wedge them in.
>
> A 4' x 10' roll of galvanized wire fencing shouldn't cost more than $10-$15.
> That's what I used to build the outside pen for my cats. I stapled the
> fencing to the inside of the 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" framing and I stapled heavy
> duty screening to the outside of the frame. Keeps the bugs off the cats and
> out of my house and also creates a "no man's land" between the screening and
> fencing so other animals can't come in contact with my cats through the
> fencing.
>
>
> >
> > Now, could you come over and build me a custom cat tree??
>
>
> No- but I can show you how to build a cat tree and high-level walkway that
> your cats will love for less than $100 using wall shelving or bookcase kits.
>
> Screw two 6' or 8' double-slotted heavy-duty uprights into your walls. Wall
> studs are usually spaced 18" apart center-to-center- so you can make the
> columns as wide or as narrow as you want. Cover the shelves with pieces of
> carpet remnants- or you can by a small 9x12' closeout carpet for $25-$30.
> Cut round or square holes in the shelves with a jig saw. Stagger the holes:
> cut a hole in the left end of the 2nd shelf, right side in the 3rd, left
> side in the 4th and so on- as high as you want or about a foot from the
> ceiling. Screw the shelves into the brackets from the bottom side of the
> shelf so they don't move. Make sure the screws aren't too long- otherwise
> the points will come through the top. If you use 3/4" luann plywood, use
> 1/2" or 5/8" screws, for 1/2" luann- use 3/8"screws. You can make little
> hidey-holes by covering the front of a few shelves and covering the front
> panels with carpet. Luann is very strong and very light weight.
>
> Give your cats a real treat and build 2 columns- one on each side of a
> window. Use a long piece of shelving for the top and middle shelves to
> create bridges across the window- the middle bridge makes a great perch for
> the cats to look out the window. The bridges will also provide escape
> routes to the right column for a cat to come down in case the other cat is
> blocking the way down on the left column. They also give the cats a great
> place to chase each other- up one column across the bridges and down the
> other column.
>
> Take a look at these illustrations. When you see what they look like,
> you'll see how *easy* they are to build.
>
> http://www.maxshouse.com/Environmental_Enrichment/Wall-shelves_high-level_walkways.jpg
>
> http://www.maxshouse.com/Environmental_Enrichment/Bookcases_high-level_walkways.jpg
>
> Phil.

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bookbug2005
October 25th 05, 06:57 PM
I've tried the Methyl Nonyl Ketone, and it "works" for about 24-48
hours--until the odor evaporates. To me, it smells like really strong
pine. So while it will repel a kitty, repeated applications are
necessary. Better to find more permanent solutions.

Michelle

No More Retail
October 26th 05, 03:16 PM
Chemical substances
Strychnine, Sodium fluoroacetate, Phosphorus, Zinc Phosphide:
rat/mouse/mole/roach poisons, rodents killed by same. Phosphorus is also
found in fireworks, matches, matchboxes, and fertilizer.
Arsenic, Metaldehyde, Lead: slug/snail bait; some ant poisons, weed killers
and insecticides; arsenic is a common impurity found in many chemicals.
Commercial paints, linoleum, batteries are sources of lead.
Warfarin (Decon; Pindone): grain feeds used as rat/mouse poison, Also used
as a prescription anti-coagulant for humans, various brand names, such as
coumadin. The animal bleeds to death. Vitamin-K is antidote: look for
purplish spots on white of eyes and gums (at this point animal is VERY
sick).
Antifreeze (ethylene glycol): from cars. Wash down any from your driveway as
this is "good tasting" but highly toxic to most animals.
Organophosphates and Carbamates (Dichlorvos, Ectoral, Malathion, Sevin (in
high percentages) etc), Chlorinated Hydrocarbons (Chloradane, Toxaphene,
Lindane, Methoxychlor: flea/parasite treatments, insecticides.
Petroleum products: gasoline, kerosene, turpentine.
Corrosives (acid and alkali): household cleaners; drain decloggers;
commercial solvents.
Many household cleaning products. Pine-oil products are very toxic and
should be avoided or rinsed thoroughly (bleach is a better alternative). In
particular, avoid items containing Phenol.
Garbage (food poisoning): carrion; decomposing foods; animal manure.
People Medicines: antihistamines, pain relievers (esp. aspirin), sleeping
pills, diet pills, heart preparations and vitamins. Anything smelling of
wintergreen or having methyl salicylate as an ingredient. Tylenol
(acetominophen) will kill cats.

~^Johnny^~
November 7th 05, 07:54 AM
On Mon, 24 Oct 2005 23:52:10 GMT, Juls > wrote:

>I'm getting ready to order one of those laser mice toys from Drs.
>Foster and Smith (our Pet Smart is out of stock until the holidays) and
>am tempted to order some of that spray cat repellent that contains
>Methyl Nonyl Ketone.

I use herbal remedies. Especially effective is the dried flowers and
leaves of 'Salvia elegans', AKA "Pineapple sage". It grows well in
most zones, like s full/partial sun, tolerates misture and drought,
and is a memeber of the mint family. HOWEVER: one caveat: it cannot
be moved, once it is established, due to a deep taproot (unlike most
oterr mints). It must be propagated by seeds or cuttings, only.

Another less effective herb (also a member of the mint family) is
'Mentha pulegium', or pennyroyal. It is a strong insect repellant,
but not so strong for cats, and it can be toxic if ingested.

'Melissa officionales' (Lemon Balm), is also less effective than
Pineapple sage, but at least it is non-toxic, unlike pennyroyal.
And it does repel cats (unless planted next to 'Nepeta cataria'). <g>.

'Mentha piperita' (Peppermint), may also repel cats and dogs, and
essential oil of peppermint is quite safe (unlike that of pennyroyal).


Forget man-made keytones and other pesticides. They either don't
work, are hazardous, or are environmentally unsafe.



--
-john
wide-open at throttle dot info

My2Kitties
April 23rd 16, 08:33 PM
"Juls" wrote in message
...


I've got a couple of spots I'm trying to keep Jazz out of, like behind
the TV where the electrical and cable wires are. She thinks the wires
are great fun, and I can't come up with a way to make a barricade.

Juls,

Go to an automotive supply store and buy a few yards of vacuum hosing- it
comes on a roll (very flexible) and in a variety of inside diameters from
1/8" to about 1". Cut the hosing in the lengths of the wires; cut a slit
down the length of the hosing and put the wires inside.

You can also use plastic tubing that you can buy a Home Depot, but I prefer
vacuum hosing because the hoses are very strong and walls of the hosing are
very thick- thicker than the length of a cat's carnassial teeth. Vacuum
hosing is very inexpensive and very easy to work with- its so flexible that
you can even tie it into a tight knot.

Phil

Dear Phil, what a GREAT idea!! I'm going to an automotive supply s tore right away to get some for all my electrical cords. I have A QUESTION. If the hose is so strong and sturdy, HOW do you cut the length of it, esp. if it's only 1/8 inch diameter?