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August 5th 06, 03:48 PM
Hi. I'm trying to catch two lovely neighborhood cats I thought were
owned (made a long post about this last weekend). Anyway, my Stray Cat
Rescue Kit arrived this past week, and I've never had more trouble
assembling anything in my life.

The Kit comes with a "Divider" that allows you to feed the stray if
some problem prolongs transport (and the only no-kill shelter currently
accepting strays in my area is over an hour's drive away).

I believe I've mastered the kit except for the placement of this
comb-like divider, but there are two unbelievable pieces of information
included in the instructions (which had I known probably would have
kept me from buying such an expensive trap). 1) You're told to stand
the trap *on END* while inserting the trap divider; and I simply do not
understand why. So if anyone has experience with this particular model
trap, would I *ever* appreciate an explanation. 2) The illustration
of the divider included in the manual shows the divider being inserted
only two-thirds of the way, which makes absolutely no sense if you're
catching a feral whose rabies status is unknown. To make a long post
short, would someone tell me exactly how you're to insert the divider?

I just can't trap my first cat (tried but never succeeded when I lived
in another neighborhood) without some confidence this will not
traumatize the cat as badly as setting this ugly thing is traumatizing
me!

Thank you all for your wonderful support.

August 5th 06, 07:23 PM
In article . com>,
wrote:

> Hi. I'm trying to catch two lovely neighborhood cats I thought were
> owned (made a long post about this last weekend). Anyway, my Stray
> Cat Rescue Kit arrived this past week, and I've never had more
> trouble assembling anything in my life.

Hmmm. Most of the traps I've used were already assembled. Does your
trap open at both ends? (I have seen some that did, and others that did
not)

> The Kit comes with a "Divider" that allows you to feed the stray if
> some problem prolongs transport (and the only no-kill shelter
> currently accepting strays in my area is over an hour's drive away).

Wow. That sounds like a GREAT kit. I have seen those dividers at the
vet's office, but never used them myself. Did you buy this over the
'Net? If so, could you share the URL with us?

> You're told to stand the trap *on END* while inserting the trap
> divider; and I simply do not understand why.

Probably so that the growling, yowling, spitting, upset, wild living
chainsaw you have captured is unceremoniously dumped to the bottom, at
which time you can then insert the divider into the cage above him,
about 1/3 of the way up. That would keep the prisoner confined safely
while you go about the business of feeding, watering, cleaning and
recovering the cage... you DO cover the cage, don't you?

> The illustration of the divider included in the manual shows the
> divider being inserted only two-thirds of the way, which makes
> absolutely no sense if you're catching a feral whose rabies status is
> unknown.

The divider should easily reach clear through the cage; the point is to
confine the animal to the space behind it. If your divider doesn't cover
the width of the cage, I would call the manufacturer or talk to a vet
about it.

As far as rabies goes, when I was trapping ferals for TNR work, my
doctor insisted that I take vaccinations against rabies. By working with
stray cats, I fell into a high-risk group for rabies because feeding
cats outdoors made me more susceptible to the worst area vectors: skunk.

I am due for a titer this year, but since I no longer do that work, I
think I'll pass.

August 5th 06, 07:46 PM
wrote:
>
> Hmmm. Most of the traps I've used were already assembled. Does your
> trap open at both ends? (I have seen some that did, and others that did
> not)

Oh, yes.
>
> > The Kit comes with a "Divider" that allows you to feed the stray if
> > some problem prolongs transport (and the only no-kill shelter
> > currently accepting strays in my area is over an hour's drive away).
>
> Wow. That sounds like a GREAT kit. I have seen those dividers at the
> vet's office, but never used them myself. Did you buy this over the
> 'Net? If so, could you share the URL with us?

www.havahart.com

> Probably so that the growling, yowling, spitting, upset, wild living
> chainsaw you have captured is unceremoniously dumped to the bottom, at
> which time you can then insert the divider into the cage above him,
> about 1/3 of the way up. That would keep the prisoner confined safely
> while you go about the business of feeding, watering, cleaning and
> recovering the cage... you DO cover the cage, don't you?

Well, now it's more clear. I called our SPCA, and the worker who
answered must have been new on the job, because she was as mystified as
I was about the reason why.
>
> > The illustration of the divider included in the manual shows the
> > divider being inserted only two-thirds of the way, which makes
> > absolutely no sense if you're catching a feral whose rabies status is
> > unknown.
>
> The divider should easily reach clear through the cage; the point is to
> confine the animal to the space behind it. If your divider doesn't cover
> the width of the cage, I would call the manufacturer or talk to a vet
> about it.

What bothers me greatly is that the illustrated manual shows a hook at
the end of the divider, but my contraption has the hook in the middle
of approximately 8 comb-like "teeth" (that penetrate the grill). See,
I was under the naive impression you could divide the cage *before*
capturing the cat, so that when it got hungry, you could pull the
divider out to let it feed or have some water.

> As far as rabies goes, when I was trapping ferals for TNR work, my
> doctor insisted that I take vaccinations against rabies. By working with
> stray cats, I fell into a high-risk group for rabies because feeding
> cats outdoors made me more susceptible to the worst area vectors: skunk.
>
> I am due for a titer this year, but since I no longer do that work, I
> think I'll pass.

I'm seeing my PCP on Monday for unrelated reasons, but can you tell me
if a rabies shot hurts a great deal? I'd feel much better knowing that
if one of the cats bites me, I'll be protected.

Thank you very much for taking the time to answer.

August 5th 06, 10:30 PM
In article om>,
wrote:

> I'm seeing my PCP on Monday for unrelated reasons, but can you tell
> me if a rabies shot hurts a great deal?

Not if the tech giving you the shot knows what they are doing. The best
thing the patient can do is relax the injection site. If you do that,
you won't even feel it. If you are tense, it hurts a little (and
believe me, I am a total pain sissy who sweats bullets at the sight of
doctor instruments).

And even if the tech doesn't care, the actual shot doesn't hurt that
much. The needle is pretty small. The worst part is that the injection
site aches for a few hours after the shot. IIRC, you have to get three
shots over a period of six or seven weeks. Then, three years later, you
go back for testing. If you are still immune, they will send you on
your way. If not, you go through the series again.

> I'd feel much better knowing that if one of the cats bites me, I'll
> be protected.

I know I did. Rabies vaccinations are quick, easy. cheap and most
importantly, EFFECTIVE protection if you enter any high-risk
environment. I highly recommend vaccination to everyone doing any kind
of animal rescue work.

MaryL
August 5th 06, 10:51 PM
> wrote in message
oups.com...
> Hi. I'm trying to catch two lovely neighborhood cats I thought were
> owned (made a long post about this last weekend). Anyway, my Stray Cat
> Rescue Kit arrived this past week, and I've never had more trouble
> assembling anything in my life.
>
> The Kit comes with a "Divider" that allows you to feed the stray if
> some problem prolongs transport (and the only no-kill shelter currently
> accepting strays in my area is over an hour's drive away).
>
> I believe I've mastered the kit except for the placement of this
> comb-like divider, but there are two unbelievable pieces of information
> included in the instructions (which had I known probably would have
> kept me from buying such an expensive trap). 1) You're told to stand
> the trap *on END* while inserting the trap divider; and I simply do not
> understand why. So if anyone has experience with this particular model
> trap, would I *ever* appreciate an explanation. 2) The illustration
> of the divider included in the manual shows the divider being inserted
> only two-thirds of the way, which makes absolutely no sense if you're
> catching a feral whose rabies status is unknown. To make a long post
> short, would someone tell me exactly how you're to insert the divider?
>
> I just can't trap my first cat (tried but never succeeded when I lived
> in another neighborhood) without some confidence this will not
> traumatize the cat as badly as setting this ugly thing is traumatizing
> me!
>
> Thank you all for your wonderful support.
>

Check the literature to see if it includes a tollfree telephone number. If
so, I would call on Monday and see if anyone can answer your questions. You
*might* just get a sales rep who knows nothing, but you also would not be
wasting anything more than a few minutes of your time with a phone call.

MaryL

Photos of Duffy and Holly: >'o'<
Duffy: http://tinyurl.com/cslwf
Holly: http://tinyurl.com/9t68o
Duffy and Holly together: http://tinyurl.com/8b47e