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Cat Hiding please help
Back in October 2003 we adopted a torishel cat, Female, 3 years old.
From Oct until Jan 2005 she hid in our recroom in the cubby hole underneath our mainfloor bathroom. (basically where the ceiling and wall meet) By a fluke we managed to get her out of there. She came upstairs to eat and we closed the door to the furnace room where she had been hiding. its been 2 weeks and now she constantly hides underneath our spare room bed. She doesnt come out on her own except to eat and use the litter. If we try to make contact with her she will run underneath our spare room dresser. She clearly doesnt want to have any affection or socialization. We have 1 other cat and he doesnt bug her and the 2 of them never fight. She just sits underneath the bed all day. There was an ad in the paper for her and we adopted her. I know it takes some time for cats to adjust to thier new environment cause I have adopted many before this, but I have never known a cat to take almost 4 months to come out from hiding. I am just frusterated that she wants to be left alone. Any ideas on what I can do? |
Hi karen
The room that she is hiding in has a spare bed and dresser. She sits underneath the bed all day and night. When she was in the cubby hole in the basement my hubby would play quietly on his xbox down stairs and wait for her but she never would come out. I just wish she was more social and wanting affection. I some times wonder if her previous owners abused her. Karen Chuplis wrote: in article , at wrote on 1/31/05 10:28 PM: Back in October 2003 we adopted a torishel cat, Female, 3 years old. From Oct until Jan 2005 she hid in our recroom in the cubby hole underneath our mainfloor bathroom. (basically where the ceiling and wall meet) By a fluke we managed to get her out of there. She came upstairs to eat and we closed the door to the furnace room where she had been hiding. its been 2 weeks and now she constantly hides underneath our spare room bed. She doesnt come out on her own except to eat and use the litter. If we try to make contact with her she will run underneath our spare room dresser. She clearly doesnt want to have any affection or socialization. We have 1 other cat and he doesnt bug her and the 2 of them never fight. She just sits underneath the bed all day. There was an ad in the paper for her and we adopted her. I know it takes some time for cats to adjust to thier new environment cause I have adopted many before this, but I have never known a cat to take almost 4 months to come out from hiding. I am just frusterated that she wants to be left alone. Any ideas on what I can do? Well, I would definitely purchase a Feliway diffuser. I know I sound like a broken record but I think it helps. Then, I would sit in the room reading doing any quiet things you can think of. We adopted a silver tipped persian who only came out late at night. She was like a ghost. She only started to come out late (like 1 or 2 a.m.) when my Dad and I stayed up late playing nitendo quietly. The rest of the house was really quiet. She slowly started coming out more and more. But I would say it took several months. What is the room she is in like? Is there a comfy chair? A window? Hopefully others will have some suggestions. |
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wrote in message oups.com... The room that she is hiding in has a spare bed and dresser. She sits underneath the bed all day and night. When she was in the cubby hole in the basement my hubby would play quietly on his xbox down stairs and wait for her but she never would come out. I just wish she was more social and wanting affection. I some times wonder if her previous owners abused her. You are sweet to care for her, as this kitty needs you more than others might. Give her the gift of your patience and she will reward you tenfold. She needs love and affection and play, too. She's just afraid. She can learn to trust you. |
in article ,
at wrote on 2/1/05 8:09AM: Hi karen The room that she is hiding in has a spare bed and dresser. She sits underneath the bed all day and night. When she was in the cubby hole in the basement my hubby would play quietly on his xbox down stairs and wait for her but she never would come out. I just wish she was more social and wanting affection. I some times wonder if her previous owners abused her. You might try a cubby hole out from under the bed. Petco and stores like that have a little cave thing that has a bed on top and a cave underneath. http://tinyurl.com/3uwqj I highly recommend the Feliway to help her relax too. And lots of patience. I know she will come around if you just be patient. |
How do I get her to trust me?
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in article ,
at wrote on 2/1/05 4:54 PM: How do I get her to trust me? Honestly, the best thing is to let her come to you on her own terms. Don't push anything. Sit and read, maybe even read out loud quietly to her to become used to you. As with any cat, routine is a very, very good way to establish comfort. They like routine. Maybe set up a schedule of when you bring in food an put it down, sit on the floor and read out loud or talk to her softly. Patience is the thing. |
wrote in message ups.com... How do I get her to trust me? So you speak softly to her almost like you're cooing or purring? I know that sounds dumb but they love it. Also, loud noises or fast moves will make her more fearful. Just find some patience, keep the goodies and treats coming, and let her get used to you. The woman who lives in the house where many of the cats are housed for my local shelter often puts very hard to socialize cats (meaning shy, not aggressive) in her bathroom with their box and everything they need. (One cat at a time, needless to say.) She says it is the best way for the cats to get used to being around a human and see that the human will not hurt them. She said that the fact that there is no place to hide is a good thing. I am not sure what I think of this, but thought I would throw it out there. |
wrote in message ups.com... How do I get her to trust me? Feed her on a regular schedule twice a day. First, put the food in the room where she hides. Call her name when you enter the room and talk to her. Tell her it's O.K. Tell her she can eat. Then, leave her alone so she will come out and eat. Shut the door so she will feel more secure. After a while, go in and get the food dish and take away any remaining food. When it is time for the next meal, repeat the previous steps. Eventually, she will expect to be fed at that time and will be looking for you because she will associate you with the food. If she shows her face or answers you when you enter the room, put the food down and sit very still across the room from her. Talk softly to her. Encourage her to eat while you are there. Do not move. When she comes out to eat while you are there, move a little closer to the dish each time you feed her. Always sit perfectly still so you will not spook her, until she warms up to you a little. Just keep pushing a tiny bit at a time. Between feeding time, go into the room with some treats. Sit and read and pretty much ignore her, except for talking to her. When you go, leave a couple of treats behind where you were. If there is a bed or a place to sleep, even on the floor, sleep in there some nights. She probably will come out and check you out. You might find her walking on you or on the bed with you, just watching you. Let her get used to you. The Feliway suggestion to make her feel more comfortable is very good. Also, be sure she has a sturdy scratching post, because she will need to scratch something. She will come around. Really. Some take longer than others, but she will come around. Annie |
On Tue, 01 Feb 2005 18:17:05 GMT, "Mary"
wrote: wrote in message roups.com... The room that she is hiding in has a spare bed and dresser. She sits underneath the bed all day and night. When she was in the cubby hole in the basement my hubby would play quietly on his xbox down stairs and wait for her but she never would come out. I just wish she was more social and wanting affection. I some times wonder if her previous owners abused her. I have 4 cats now. I adopted the first 2 together, and I believe they were ferrel. They were too younge to be away from the mom cat so I took them both. Lots of things to over come, but these 2 are still very sppoky. Cat5 is the worse. He will hide if any one comes over to visit. I have found one thing though. Cat 5 use to only want to be near me and is still my big baby. And Lucifer never wanted me to hold her. Now that they have been here since 2004, Cat5 willing climbs on my daughters or husbands lap. Lucifer has become super glued to me if I am resting. So it seems cats change from year to year, sorta slow and gradual. I also recommend feliway. I have used it when adding a new cat and it does help. Good luck, patience be with you, Karryl |
On 1 Feb 2005 14:54:38 -0800, wrote:
How do I get her to trust me? Any chance you can hand feed her? It may help some. Karryl |
wrote in message
oups.com... Back in October 2003 we adopted a torishel cat, Female, 3 years old. From Oct until Jan 2005 she hid in our recroom in the cubby hole underneath our mainfloor bathroom. (basically where the ceiling and wall meet) By a fluke we managed to get her out of there. She came upstairs to eat and we closed the door to the furnace room where she had been hiding. its been 2 weeks and now she constantly hides underneath our spare room bed. She doesnt come out on her own except to eat and use the litter. If we try to make contact with her she will run underneath our spare room dresser. She clearly doesnt want to have any affection or socialization. We have 1 other cat and he doesnt bug her and the 2 of them never fight. She just sits underneath the bed all day. There was an ad in the paper for her and we adopted her. I know it takes some time for cats to adjust to thier new environment cause I have adopted many before this, but I have never known a cat to take almost 4 months to come out from hiding. I am just frusterated that she wants to be left alone. Any ideas on what I can do? The symptoms you describe are consistent with feline anxiety disorder, and the most expedient and effective solution is 0.5mg/kg/day fluoxetine (Prozac). Your pharmacy can compound this medication in #3 gel caps so that one cap daily will deliver precisely the prescribed dose. Expect a positive response within 48 hours, and a much happier and well-adjusted cat within 2-4 weeks; maintenance for at least six months seems to produce the most robust longer-term results. |
From Oct until Jan 2005 she hid in our recroom in the cubby hole
underneath our mainfloor bathroom. (basically where the ceiling and wall meet) By a fluke we managed to get her out of there. She came upstairs to eat and we closed the door to the furnace room where she had been hiding. Its been 2 weeks and now she constantly hides underneath our spare room bed. She doesnt come out on her own except to eat and use the litter. If we try to make contact with her she will run underneath our spare room dresser. She clearly doesnt want to have any affection or socialization. We have 1 other cat and he doesnt bug her and the 2 of them never fight. She just sits underneath the bed all day. There was an ad in the paper for her and we adopted her. I know it takes some time for cats to adjust to thier new environment cause I have adopted many before this, but I have never known a cat to take almost 4 months to come out from hiding. I am just frusterated that she wants to be left alone. Any ideas on what I can do? Try to relax. I know how frustrating it is. And please, please, please don't even think about prozacing this cat. I've been where you are. My 2nd cat was a terrified semi-feral and even at two years in is still a bit challenged sometimes at relating to the humans, although she's come a long way. And she was much faster to come around than a cat my sister adopted 4 years ago. For what it's worth, they're both total snugglebugs now, and to look at Clea (my sister's cat), you would never know that she spent six months in the wall of my sister's apartment and another six months under the bed. Sometimes it just takes a while. They operate on cat time, not human time. Try to remember that we really have no way of knowing what kind of hell they have been through, and on their own terms, they probably have very good reason to be wary. Eventually the kitty will see that you are not a threat, this is not a bad place, and that she can stay and it isn't just another stopover. But she doesn't know that yet. It's really hard to deal with a creature that isn't ready to give and can only take from us, but this is where we have to show the emotional maturity to wait for the cat to come around, even though it isn't able yet to meet any of our desires in a "pet". She will come around and honestly, will be so grateful and happy when she does that you'll probably love her even more than the others. But until then: Talk to her, even when she runs away. Say gentle things. She's watching you even if you can't see her. Make food and treats available to her regularly, on as set a routine as you can manage, even if she rarely seems to partake of them. Let her see you petting and playing with the other cat as often as possible. Try to find something sedentary to do in the area she's hiding, so you can be present without moving too much. (My sister's cat would run away if anybody moved in her vincinity, but would creep out to watch the humans if she thought they were sleeping). Put blankets and soft towels with your scent in whatever area she's hiding in so she can get used to how you smell. And just let her be. She'll find her way. |
wrote in message ups.com... Try to relax. I know how frustrating it is. And please, please, please don't even think about prozacing this cat. I've been where you are. My 2nd cat was a terrified semi-feral and even at two years in is still a bit challenged sometimes at relating to the humans, although she's come a long way. And she was much faster to come around than a cat my sister adopted 4 years ago. For what it's worth, they're both total snugglebugs now, and to look at Clea (my sister's cat), you would never know that she spent six months in the wall of my sister's apartment and another six months under the bed. Sometimes it just takes a while. They operate on cat time, not human time. What a great way to put it. :) And I agree that drugs should be the last resort, only if the cat's health or life is in danger. Try to remember that we really have no way of knowing what kind of hell they have been through, and on their own terms, they probably have very good reason to be wary. Eventually the kitty will see that you are not a threat, this is not a bad place, and that she can stay and it isn't just another stopover. But she doesn't know that yet. It's really hard to deal with a creature that isn't ready to give and can only take from us, but this is where we have to show the emotional maturity to wait for the cat to come around, even though it isn't able yet to meet any of our desires in a "pet". She will come around and honestly, will be so grateful and happy when she does that you'll probably love her even more than the others. But until then: Talk to her, even when she runs away. Say gentle things. She's watching you even if you can't see her. Make food and treats available to her regularly, on as set a routine as you can manage, even if she rarely seems to partake of them. Let her see you petting and playing with the other cat as often as possible. Try to find something sedentary to do in the area she's hiding, so you can be present without moving too much. (My sister's cat would run away if anybody moved in her vincinity, but would creep out to watch the humans if she thought they were sleeping). Put blankets and soft towels with your scent in whatever area she's hiding in so she can get used to how you smell. And just let her be. She'll find her way. Tracy, thanks for taking the time to write this. You really know your scaredycats! ;) |
It is clear that this kitty needs a lot of patience and love. I went
through this when I adopted my little Belle a year and a half ago. It was a long and very gradual process for her to establish trust in me but it was sooooooo worth it. It is very traumatic for many adult cats to be put in an unfamiliar environment. Some cats take months or even years to adjust completely. Please stick with your kitty and don't give up on her. Here are a few suggestions that worked for me (based on the advise of my vet). 1. Take a t-shirt or a sweater that you have slept in or exercised in and put it near where she sleeps. An article of clothing that you have slept in or exercised in will have your scent on it. This will allow the cat to get used to your scent. Cats trust what is familiar. 2. Sit for 30 minutes to an hour next to the bed when she is hiding underneath (but not looking at her or reaching for her) and sing softly or read aloud in a soft tone. Again this will help her to get used to your voice and your presence and realize that you are not a treat to her. Never have more than one person in the room at this time. It is much easier to get her to trust you first and when she is ready she will gradually get used to other people. 3. Never force yourself on her. If you try to force her to let you touch her or pick her up she will not feel safe with you. You will make things worse if you pick at her or try to rush her. If she comes out when you are in the room sit on the floor and speak softly to her. Allow her to come to you and never try to hold her back when she is ready to return to her safe zone. 4. Until she feels safe to be out in the open exploring the room she's in, keep the door closed. This will allow her to establish a broader area in which she feels safe. The most important thing, as I learned, is that you can't rush the process. What seems perfectly safe to us can feel very threatening to a cat. If you have patience your cat will eventually learn to trust - maybe not today, maybe not next week - it may take a very long time but it is worth it in the end. Paws up to you for giving this kitty the kindness and patience she needs. -- Message posted via http://www.catkb.com |
3. Never force yourself on her. If you try to force her to let you touch her or pick her up she will not feel safe with you. You will make things worse if you pick at her or try to rush her. If she comes out when you are in the room sit on the floor and speak softly to her. Allow her to come to you and never try to hold her back when she is ready to return to her safe zone. I think this one is ultra primo important. Just only talk to her, just like if a friend or child walked into the room "Well, look who's out here sleepy head. You look so pretty today. " and such, but without approaching can really really be of benefit to earning trust. |
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You may have a recently rescued feral or long-abandoned pet. Be very patient. Try confining her in a room where she has a hideyhole that you reach (not to grab her but to offer treats). Or even consider caging her for a while, until she is used to your hands. I discuss this at length in a little article posted to the Campus Cats website: Taming the Tiger. You might also consider adopting another cat to befriend your fraidycat. Good luck! www.campuscats.org Sharon Talbert Friends of Campus Cats feel free to email me at |
wrote in message
ups.com... [snip] Try to relax. I know how frustrating it is. And please, please, please don't even think about prozacing this cat. [snip] You can always tell a behavioralist ... you just can't tell them much! |
"mpwilliams" wrote in message ... wrote in message ups.com... [snip] Try to relax. I know how frustrating it is. And please, please, please don't even think about prozacing this cat. [snip] You can always tell a behavioralist ... you just can't tell them much! It is stupid to medicate a cat without trying behavior modification. |
"Mary" wrote in message
. com... "mpwilliams" wrote in message ... wrote in message ups.com... [snip] Try to relax. I know how frustrating it is. And please, please, please don't even think about prozacing this cat. [snip] You can always tell a behavioralist ... you just can't tell them much! It is stupid to medicate a cat without trying behavior modification. Not unlike humans, cats can suffer from anxiety and anxiety-aggression disorders that are highly refractory to treatment with behavioral- or cognition-based socialization therapies ... the expedient, effective, safe, and humane solution for these animals (as with humans) *begins* with anti-depressant (e.g., fluoxetine) and/or anti-anxiety (e.g., buspirone) medications, supplemented by behavioral and cognitive therapy as mitigation of primary symptoms is observed. Stupid: no. Rational: yes. |
"mpwilliams" wrote in message ... "Mary" wrote in message . com... "mpwilliams" wrote in message ... wrote in message ups.com... [snip] Try to relax. I know how frustrating it is. And please, please, please don't even think about prozacing this cat. [snip] You can always tell a behavioralist ... you just can't tell them much! It is stupid to medicate a cat without trying behavior modification. Not unlike humans, cats can suffer from anxiety and anxiety-aggression disorders that are highly refractory to treatment with behavioral- or cognition-based socialization therapies ... the expedient, effective, safe, and humane solution for these animals (as with humans) *begins* with anti-depressant (e.g., fluoxetine) and/or anti-anxiety (e.g., buspirone) medications, supplemented by behavioral and cognitive therapy as mitigation of primary symptoms is observed. Stupid: no. Rational: yes. Given the side effects many medications have, if there is another way for my cat I will try it first. (Not to mention how stressful it is for the cat to be pilled.) Is buspirone the same as Buspar? If so, withdrawal from that can be dangerous and even cause seizures. Tell me, have you had cats that are on medication? Or are you a vet, or both? I am curious about what makes you feel so strongly about the benefits of these medicines for cats. |
"Not unlike humans, cats can suffer from anxiety and anxiety-aggression
disorders that are highly refractory to treatment with behavioral- or cognition-based socialization therapies ... the expedient, effective, safe, and humane solution for these animals (as with humans) *begins* with anti-depressant (e.g., fluoxetine) and/or anti-anxiety (e.g., buspirone) medications, supplemented by behavioral and cognitive therapy as mitigation of primary symptoms is observed. Stupid: no. Rational: yes" Please. I can't tell you the number of people I have known who have been over medicated by the irresponsible dispensation of anti-depression and anti-anxiety drugs and the hell they have gone through getting off those things when they realized they'd been zombified. Like people, anxiety and depression in a cat can be a perfectly rational reaction to an anxiety-causing and upsetting situation. Your cat has been through something frightening in her past and she needs to recover from it and learn to trust again. Just like people do. And with patience and love, she will do so. Unless you're just too restless to give her that time. I know it works, I've seen it happen. And it is a joyful experience to bring a little creature back from the abyss and watch their personality bloom and the spring come back into their step. Much more joyful than prozac'ing your cat. |
"Mary" wrote in message
. com... "mpwilliams" wrote in message ... "Mary" wrote in message . com... "mpwilliams" wrote in message ... wrote in message ups.com... [snip] Try to relax. I know how frustrating it is. And please, please, please don't even think about prozacing this cat. [snip] You can always tell a behavioralist ... you just can't tell them much! It is stupid to medicate a cat without trying behavior modification. Not unlike humans, cats can suffer from anxiety and anxiety-aggression disorders that are highly refractory to treatment with behavioral- or cognition-based socialization therapies ... the expedient, effective, safe, and humane solution for these animals (as with humans) *begins* with anti-depressant (e.g., fluoxetine) and/or anti-anxiety (e.g., buspirone) medications, supplemented by behavioral and cognitive therapy as mitigation of primary symptoms is observed. Stupid: no. Rational: yes. Given the side effects many medications have, if there is another way for my cat I will try it first. (Not to mention how stressful it is for the cat to be pilled.) Is buspirone the same as Buspar? If so, withdrawal from that can be dangerous and even cause seizures. Tell me, have you had cats that are on medication? Or are you a vet, or both? I am curious about what makes you feel so strongly about the benefits of these medicines for cats. Taking up your concern regarding side-effects first, the *only* published clinical study of the use of fluoxetine (Prozac) in treating felines with severe aggression and/or anxiety-related disorders found that at daily dosages (1.0mg/kg) up to twice that which I have suggested from my own experience (0.5mg/kg), there simply *were* no clinically-observable side effects. None. You can study these findings, which were presented in 2003 at the Thirteenth Biennial Symposium of The American Academy of Veterinary Pharmacology and Therapeutics, within the proceedings for that meeting, a download link for which is: http://www.aavpt.org/symposia/2003Proceedings.pdf Look for "New Therapeutic Horizons: Fluoxetine Pharmacology and Safety in Dogs and Cats and Its Role in Behavior Modification" by Kirby Pasloske, DVM, DVSc, DACVCP (beginning page 70 in proceedings, page 82 in .pdf document). Another useful reference from the veterinary literature can be found at: http://makeashorterlink.com/?Q1F85496A As for your question regarding my own experience with the use of fluoxetine in treating various feline disorders, the answer is yes, I do have experience treating two (2) neutered males and one (1) spayed female over the course of two years. Of those, one is perhaps best illustrative of my point. We adopted Mr. Buttons, a two-year-old neutered male ASH tabby in robust physical health, from my wife's mother (age 90), who had become very fearful of the cats spontaneous biting attacks, weary of his persistent spraying, and frustrated with his otherwise reclusive and unsociable habits. For almost two (2) years thereafter, we struggled to rehabilitate this poor fellow using best practice in behavioral and cognition-based therapy, as well as by using products such as Feliway (spraying), but Mr. Buttons remained refractory to our very best efforts (we are experienced cat people, maintaining a 2-7 cat household over the last twenty years). He was relentless in his unprovoked attacks on other cats in our household, he was dangerous in his unprovoked attacks on ourselves (often coming from another room for the seemingly single and sole purpose of launching such an attack, which frequently resulted in bleeding bite and scratch wounds), and his spraying and peeing conquests were daily, pervasive, and destructive. What to do? Well, there came a day, following a particularly vicious biting-and-clawing attack on my wife - one which left her absolutely terrified - when we both agreed that it might no longer be possible to provide Mr. Buttons with a home, and that euthanasia was the only remaining option (the local humane society told us very firmly that adoption was a non-starter). I don't recall ever feeling so poorly about myself as a steward and protector for our companion animals as I did on hanging up the phone after talking to the humane society about euthanizing Mr. Buttons. Despite all of his shortcomings, we had found something about him to love and care for, and, as I prepared to take Mr. Buttons to his end, we were both so overcome with remorse that we found it impossible to speak about it with one another. And then serendipity happened. My wife's friend arrived for an afternoon of quilting or the like and, when we explained the reason for our distress, she described a friend's successful experience treating their 'soon-for-the-pound' pooch with fluoxetine (Prozac), and it was this chance passing of information that changed everything. I put the pet carrier away, did some focused searching on the internet, and within 15 minutes I had discovered and digested the above-referenced publications. Before the afternoon was out, I had reviewed the situation with our vet (cats-only practice), who was very familiar with Mr. Buttons' history, had reached agreement on a trial of fluoxetine therapy, and we were off to the races on a daily dose of 2.5mg (0.5mg/kg/day), prepared at home by quartering the contents of 10mg fluoxetine caps and recapping in #4 gel caps. The results were astounding. Within 48 hours, Mr. Buttons' spraying and inappropriate peeing stopped completely, and over the next two weeks we observed daily miracles as he went through a complete transformation of demeanor and habit. He became sociable and gregarious, he stopped stalking and attacking, and - wonder of all wonders - he mustered the courage to pass over the threshold of our back door and in to our fenced and quite cat-friendly back yard ... his first time in two years! These changes have been robust over time, Mr. Buttons has experienced no clinically observable side effects due to his daily medication, and the quality of his life has improved immeasurably as a result. In point-of-fact, Mr. Buttons owes life itself to the fluoxetine he has taken daily, and, curiously, he seems to understand something about that because when I come around with his daily dose, he is extraordinarily accommodating as I open his jaws and gently push it to the back of his mouth ... and he has *never* spit out his meds, not even once. You can say what you like about the merits of non-medicative solutions to feline anxiety, aggression, and elimination disorders, but the choices one makes should be appropriate to the problem one is trying to resolve and the issues that hang in the balance ... every day that a cat's dysfunction remains unresolved - as the erstwhile owner doggedly exhausts one behavior-modification solution after the next - is a day of low-quality life that the animal will never recover, and a day closer to that point at which the bond between human and companion animal has been so severely strained that euthanasia remains as the only alternative. 'Smart' (as opposed to 'stupid', as you put it) means understanding that severe feline anxiety, aggression, and elimination disorders are not bad behaviors ... they are organic medical disorders, and they have to be treated with a combined therapy that services this fact. And, no, I am not a veterinarian ... nor are you. |
"mpwilliams" wrote in message ... Taking up your concern regarding side-effects first, the *only* published clinical study of the use of fluoxetine (Prozac) in treating felines with severe aggression and/or anxiety-related disorders found that at daily dosages (1.0mg/kg) up to twice that which I have suggested from my own experience (0.5mg/kg), there simply *were* no clinically-observable side effects. None. You can study these findings, which were presented in 2003 at the Thirteenth Biennial Symposium of The American Academy of Veterinary Pharmacology and Therapeutics, within the proceedings for that meeting, a download link for which is: http://www.aavpt.org/symposia/2003Proceedings.pdf Look for "New Therapeutic Horizons: Fluoxetine Pharmacology and Safety in Dogs and Cats and Its Role in Behavior Modification" by Kirby Pasloske, DVM, DVSc, DACVCP (beginning page 70 in proceedings, page 82 in .pdf document). Another useful reference from the veterinary literature can be found at: http://makeashorterlink.com/?Q1F85496A Thanks for the link, I will read it when time allows. As for your question regarding my own experience with the use of fluoxetine in treating various feline disorders, the answer is yes, I do have experience treating two (2) neutered males and one (1) spayed female over the course of two years. Of those, one is perhaps best illustrative of my point. We adopted Mr. Buttons, a two-year-old neutered male ASH tabby in robust physical health, from my wife's mother (age 90), who had become very fearful of the cats spontaneous biting attacks, weary of his persistent spraying, and frustrated with his otherwise reclusive and unsociable habits. For almost two (2) years thereafter, we struggled to rehabilitate this poor fellow using best practice in behavioral and cognition-based therapy, as well as by using products such as Feliway (spraying), but Mr. Buttons remained refractory to our very best efforts (we are experienced cat people, maintaining a 2-7 cat household over the last twenty years). He was relentless in his unprovoked attacks on other cats in our household, he was dangerous in his unprovoked attacks on ourselves (often coming from another room for the seemingly single and sole purpose of launching such an attack, which frequently resulted in bleeding bite and scratch wounds), and his spraying and peeing conquests were daily, pervasive, and destructive. What to do? This cat was neutered, right?? |
"Mary" wrote in message
. com... "mpwilliams" wrote in message ... Taking up your concern regarding side-effects first, the *only* published clinical study of the use of fluoxetine (Prozac) in treating felines with severe aggression and/or anxiety-related disorders found that at daily dosages (1.0mg/kg) up to twice that which I have suggested from my own experience (0.5mg/kg), there simply *were* no clinically-observable side effects. None. You can study these findings, which were presented in 2003 at the Thirteenth Biennial Symposium of The American Academy of Veterinary Pharmacology and Therapeutics, within the proceedings for that meeting, a download link for which is: http://www.aavpt.org/symposia/2003Proceedings.pdf Look for "New Therapeutic Horizons: Fluoxetine Pharmacology and Safety in Dogs and Cats and Its Role in Behavior Modification" by Kirby Pasloske, DVM, DVSc, DACVCP (beginning page 70 in proceedings, page 82 in .pdf document). Another useful reference from the veterinary literature can be found at: http://makeashorterlink.com/?Q1F85496A Thanks for the link, I will read it when time allows. As for your question regarding my own experience with the use of fluoxetine in treating various feline disorders, the answer is yes, I do have experience treating two (2) neutered males and one (1) spayed female over the course of two years. Of those, one is perhaps best illustrative of my point. We adopted Mr. Buttons, a two-year-old neutered male ASH tabby in robust physical health, from my wife's mother (age 90), who had become very fearful of the cats spontaneous biting attacks, weary of his persistent spraying, and frustrated with his otherwise reclusive and unsociable habits. For almost two (2) years thereafter, we struggled to rehabilitate this poor fellow using best practice in behavioral and cognition-based therapy, as well as by using products such as Feliway (spraying), but Mr. Buttons remained refractory to our very best efforts (we are experienced cat people, maintaining a 2-7 cat household over the last twenty years). He was relentless in his unprovoked attacks on other cats in our household, he was dangerous in his unprovoked attacks on ourselves (often coming from another room for the seemingly single and sole purpose of launching such an attack, which frequently resulted in bleeding bite and scratch wounds), and his spraying and peeing conquests were daily, pervasive, and destructive. What to do? This cat was neutered, right?? Yes, "a two-year-old neutered male ASH tabby in robust physical health" means, among other things, that he was (obviously) neutered. |
"mpwilliams" wrote This cat was neutered, right?? Yes, "a two-year-old neutered male ASH tabby in robust physical health" means, among other things, that he was (obviously) neutered. Sorry, I missed that. Great success story, thanks for sharing it. I am still inclined to try other means before drugging my cats, but the information you provided here may be helpful. |
"The answer is yes, I do have experience treating two (2) neutered
males and one (1) spayed female over the course of two years" And after this experienve with one cat, you found it appropriate to treat two additional cats in the same manner in less than two years? "every day that a cat's dysfunction remains unresolved - as the erstwhile owner doggedly exhausts one behavior-modification solution after the next - is a day of low-quality life that the animal will never recover, and a day closer to that point at which the bond between human and companion animal has been so severely strained that euthanasia remains as the only alternative" A cat learning to trust again after an upsetting and anxiety-provoking experience isn't living a "low-quality life"- it's honoring it's own instincts. The OP's cat isn't aggressive - it's simply hiding because it doesn't feel safe yet. That's what cats do. Just because it takes a long time by our standards doesn't make it an illness. It just makes it a human inconvenience. And your second point is relevent only if one considers euthanizing a healthy animal for being frightened. That's nowhere on my list of options. |
As I said before, you can always tell a behavioralist ... you just can't
tell them much! |
One more time for the slow learner: You can always tell a behavioralist ...
you just can't tell them much! |
"mpwilliams" wrote in message ... As I said before, you can always tell a behavioralist ... you just can't tell them much! Who are you talking to? |
"Mary" wrote in message
.com... "mpwilliams" wrote in message ... As I said before, you can always tell a behavioralist ... you just can't tell them much! Who are you talking to? Something calling itself '. Apologies to those who are suppressing 'read' posts ... I shall change my behavior! |
"mpwilliams" wrote in message ... "Mary" wrote in message .com... "mpwilliams" wrote in message ... As I said before, you can always tell a behavioralist ... you just can't tell them much! Who are you talking to? Something calling itself '. Apologies to those who are suppressing 'read' posts ... I shall change my behavior! Thank you. |
"Mary" wrote in message
.com... "mpwilliams" wrote in message ... "Mary" wrote in message .com... "mpwilliams" wrote in message ... As I said before, you can always tell a behavioralist ... you just can't tell them much! Who are you talking to? Something calling itself '. Apologies to those who are suppressing 'read' posts ... I shall change my behavior! Thank you. You're quite welcome. |
On 2005-02-06, Mary penned:
"mpwilliams" wrote This cat was neutered, right?? Yes, "a two-year-old neutered male ASH tabby in robust physical health" means, among other things, that he was (obviously) neutered. Sorry, I missed that. Great success story, thanks for sharing it. I am still inclined to try other means before drugging my cats, but the information you provided here may be helpful. I have a friend whose cat likes to pee on the futon. The only thing that seems to lessen the likelihood is an antidepressant (can't recall which). The cat is declawed (friend got her that way from the shelter). I do wonder if this is related, as I've heard that declawed cats often develop behavior problems. My friend would never declaw a cat, but she does intentionally choose already-declawed cats from the shelter ... I haven't quite sorted out the feelings I have about this. I mean, she's not having the cats declawed, and there are certainly plenty of already-declawed cats who need homes ... but ... ick =/ -- monique, roommate of Oscar the (female) grouch ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Eros was adopted! Eros has a home now! *cheer!* |
My friend would never declaw a cat, but she does intentionally choose already-declawed cats from the shelter ... I haven't quite sorted out the feelings I have about this. I mean, she's not having the cats declawed, and there are certainly plenty of already-declawed cats who need homes ... but ... ick =/ I understand your feelings declawing...however...at least IMO...what feelings could you have to sort out? What's done is done and these cats need homes, too. Right? IMO, it is the perfect solution to a less than perfect situation. pam |
"kitkat" wrote in message ... My friend would never declaw a cat, but she does intentionally choose already-declawed cats from the shelter ... I haven't quite sorted out the feelings I have about this. I mean, she's not having the cats declawed, and there are certainly plenty of already-declawed cats who need homes ... but ... ick =/ I understand your feelings declawing...however...at least IMO...what feelings could you have to sort out? What's done is done and these cats need homes, too. Right? IMO, it is the perfect solution to a less than perfect situation. Yes--especially since these cats are essentially defenseless. It is wonderful that Monique's friend adopts them. |
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On 2005-02-08, kitkat penned:
My friend would never declaw a cat, but she does intentionally choose already-declawed cats from the shelter ... I haven't quite sorted out the feelings I have about this. I mean, she's not having the cats declawed, and there are certainly plenty of already-declawed cats who need homes ... but ... ick =/ I understand your feelings declawing...however...at least IMO...what feelings could you have to sort out? What's done is done and these cats need homes, too. Right? IMO, it is the perfect solution to a less than perfect situation. Yeah, you're right. I guess it's just the preference for having a cat who's declawed that gives me icky feelings. However, as I don't anticipate there being any shortage of declawed cats in the near future, I guess you're right *sigh* -- monique, roommate of Oscar the (female) grouch ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Eros was adopted! Eros has a home now! *cheer!* |
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