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Repellent: Methyl Nonyl Ketone?



 
 
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  #11  
Old October 25th 05, 10:03 AM
Phil P.
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Repellent: Methyl Nonyl Ketone?


"Juls" wrote in message
...
In article , "Phil P."
wrote:

You shouldn't block the space behind the fridge with a solid object

because
it will also restrict air flow and cause the fridge motor to overheat

and
possibly burn out.

While you're at home depot, buy a 4'H x 10L' roll of metal fencing

(similar
to chicken wire) that has 1/2" square openings- they're too small for a
cat's paws to get stuck in. Don't unroll the fencing- just stand it up

and
wedge it between the wall and the fridge- do the other of the side of

fridge
the same way. The fencing will keep the cats out while still allowing

air to
circulate behind the fridge. The rolls are hardly noticeable.

Some fencing comes wrapped in plastic packages. In this case, peel down

a
few inches of the package and put a few layers of tape around the roll-
about an inch or two from the top of the roll so it doesn't unwind. Do

the
same
on the other end. After both ends are taped, take the rest of the

plastic
packaging off and wrap a few layers of tape around the middle of the

roll.
Now the roll won't unwind. Wedge it between the wall and fridge. That

ought
to do it.


Fantastic! Thank you.



You could probably create barriers on both sides of the fridge from one roll
of fencing. Just use half a roll on each side. Make the diameter of the
rolls a lot wider than the space between the wall and fridge so they will
fit very tightly when you wedge them in.

A 4' x 10' roll of galvanized wire fencing shouldn't cost more than $10-$15.
That's what I used to build the outside pen for my cats. I stapled the
fencing to the inside of the 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" framing and I stapled heavy
duty screening to the outside of the frame. Keeps the bugs off the cats and
out of my house and also creates a "no man's land" between the screening and
fencing so other animals can't come in contact with my cats through the
fencing.



Now, could you come over and build me a custom cat tree??



No- but I can show you how to build a cat tree and high-level walkway that
your cats will love for less than $100 using wall shelving or bookcase kits.

Screw two 6' or 8' double-slotted heavy-duty uprights into your walls. Wall
studs are usually spaced 18" apart center-to-center- so you can make the
columns as wide or as narrow as you want. Cover the shelves with pieces of
carpet remnants- or you can by a small 9x12' closeout carpet for $25-$30.
Cut round or square holes in the shelves with a jig saw. Stagger the holes:
cut a hole in the left end of the 2nd shelf, right side in the 3rd, left
side in the 4th and so on- as high as you want or about a foot from the
ceiling. Screw the shelves into the brackets from the bottom side of the
shelf so they don't move. Make sure the screws aren't too long- otherwise
the points will come through the top. If you use 3/4" luann plywood, use
1/2" or 5/8" screws, for 1/2" luann- use 3/8"screws. You can make little
hidey-holes by covering the front of a few shelves and covering the front
panels with carpet. Luann is very strong and very light weight.

Give your cats a real treat and build 2 columns- one on each side of a
window. Use a long piece of shelving for the top and middle shelves to
create bridges across the window- the middle bridge makes a great perch for
the cats to look out the window. The bridges will also provide escape
routes to the right column for a cat to come down in case the other cat is
blocking the way down on the left column. They also give the cats a great
place to chase each other- up one column across the bridges and down the
other column.

Take a look at these illustrations. When you see what they look like,
you'll see how *easy* they are to build.

http://www.maxshouse.com/Environment...l_walkways.jpg

http://www.maxshouse.com/Environment...l_walkways.jpg

Phil.





  #12  
Old October 25th 05, 02:15 PM
Ramboyd
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Repellent: Methyl Nonyl Ketone?

"Phil P." wrote:

"Juls" wrote in message
...
In article , "Phil P."
wrote:

You shouldn't block the space behind the fridge with a solid object

because
it will also restrict air flow and cause the fridge motor to overheat

and
possibly burn out.

While you're at home depot, buy a 4'H x 10L' roll of metal fencing

(similar
to chicken wire) that has 1/2" square openings- they're too small for a
cat's paws to get stuck in. Don't unroll the fencing- just stand it up

and
wedge it between the wall and the fridge- do the other of the side of

fridge
the same way. The fencing will keep the cats out while still allowing

air to
circulate behind the fridge. The rolls are hardly noticeable.

Some fencing comes wrapped in plastic packages. In this case, peel down

a
few inches of the package and put a few layers of tape around the roll-
about an inch or two from the top of the roll so it doesn't unwind. Do

the
same
on the other end. After both ends are taped, take the rest of the

plastic
packaging off and wrap a few layers of tape around the middle of the

roll.
Now the roll won't unwind. Wedge it between the wall and fridge. That

ought
to do it.


Fantastic! Thank you.


You could probably create barriers on both sides of the fridge from one roll
of fencing. Just use half a roll on each side. Make the diameter of the
rolls a lot wider than the space between the wall and fridge so they will
fit very tightly when you wedge them in.

A 4' x 10' roll of galvanized wire fencing shouldn't cost more than $10-$15.
That's what I used to build the outside pen for my cats. I stapled the
fencing to the inside of the 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" framing and I stapled heavy
duty screening to the outside of the frame. Keeps the bugs off the cats and
out of my house and also creates a "no man's land" between the screening and
fencing so other animals can't come in contact with my cats through the
fencing.


Now, could you come over and build me a custom cat tree??


No- but I can show you how to build a cat tree and high-level walkway that
your cats will love for less than $100 using wall shelving or bookcase kits.

Screw two 6' or 8' double-slotted heavy-duty uprights into your walls. Wall
studs are usually spaced 18" apart center-to-center- so you can make the
columns as wide or as narrow as you want. Cover the shelves with pieces of
carpet remnants- or you can by a small 9x12' closeout carpet for $25-$30.
Cut round or square holes in the shelves with a jig saw. Stagger the holes:
cut a hole in the left end of the 2nd shelf, right side in the 3rd, left
side in the 4th and so on- as high as you want or about a foot from the
ceiling. Screw the shelves into the brackets from the bottom side of the
shelf so they don't move. Make sure the screws aren't too long- otherwise
the points will come through the top. If you use 3/4" luann plywood, use
1/2" or 5/8" screws, for 1/2" luann- use 3/8"screws. You can make little
hidey-holes by covering the front of a few shelves and covering the front
panels with carpet. Luann is very strong and very light weight.

Give your cats a real treat and build 2 columns- one on each side of a
window. Use a long piece of shelving for the top and middle shelves to
create bridges across the window- the middle bridge makes a great perch for
the cats to look out the window. The bridges will also provide escape
routes to the right column for a cat to come down in case the other cat is
blocking the way down on the left column. They also give the cats a great
place to chase each other- up one column across the bridges and down the
other column.

Take a look at these illustrations. When you see what they look like,
you'll see how *easy* they are to build.

http://www.maxshouse.com/Environment...l_walkways.jpg

http://www.maxshouse.com/Environment...l_walkways.jpg

Phil.


I might add, you can pick up carpet for free at major carpet stores. They often throw out
carpet from wall to wall installation jobs. Just check out the dumpster bin after the
store closes.

Ramboyd

======

"My Ottawa Includes Corruption"


  #13  
Old October 25th 05, 05:41 PM
Juls
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Repellent: Methyl Nonyl Ketone?

So helpful, Phil! Thanks....and I've actually got a roll of new carpet
in the basement I can use! (leftover, just sitting there) This is
really a neat looking project.

In article , "Phil P."
wrote:

"Juls" wrote in message
...
In article , "Phil P."
wrote:

You shouldn't block the space behind the fridge with a solid object

because
it will also restrict air flow and cause the fridge motor to overheat

and
possibly burn out.

While you're at home depot, buy a 4'H x 10L' roll of metal fencing

(similar
to chicken wire) that has 1/2" square openings- they're too small for a
cat's paws to get stuck in. Don't unroll the fencing- just stand it up

and
wedge it between the wall and the fridge- do the other of the side of

fridge
the same way. The fencing will keep the cats out while still allowing

air to
circulate behind the fridge. The rolls are hardly noticeable.

Some fencing comes wrapped in plastic packages. In this case, peel down

a
few inches of the package and put a few layers of tape around the roll-
about an inch or two from the top of the roll so it doesn't unwind. Do

the
same
on the other end. After both ends are taped, take the rest of the

plastic
packaging off and wrap a few layers of tape around the middle of the

roll.
Now the roll won't unwind. Wedge it between the wall and fridge. That

ought
to do it.


Fantastic! Thank you.



You could probably create barriers on both sides of the fridge from one roll
of fencing. Just use half a roll on each side. Make the diameter of the
rolls a lot wider than the space between the wall and fridge so they will
fit very tightly when you wedge them in.

A 4' x 10' roll of galvanized wire fencing shouldn't cost more than $10-$15.
That's what I used to build the outside pen for my cats. I stapled the
fencing to the inside of the 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" framing and I stapled heavy
duty screening to the outside of the frame. Keeps the bugs off the cats and
out of my house and also creates a "no man's land" between the screening and
fencing so other animals can't come in contact with my cats through the
fencing.



Now, could you come over and build me a custom cat tree??



No- but I can show you how to build a cat tree and high-level walkway that
your cats will love for less than $100 using wall shelving or bookcase kits.

Screw two 6' or 8' double-slotted heavy-duty uprights into your walls. Wall
studs are usually spaced 18" apart center-to-center- so you can make the
columns as wide or as narrow as you want. Cover the shelves with pieces of
carpet remnants- or you can by a small 9x12' closeout carpet for $25-$30.
Cut round or square holes in the shelves with a jig saw. Stagger the holes:
cut a hole in the left end of the 2nd shelf, right side in the 3rd, left
side in the 4th and so on- as high as you want or about a foot from the
ceiling. Screw the shelves into the brackets from the bottom side of the
shelf so they don't move. Make sure the screws aren't too long- otherwise
the points will come through the top. If you use 3/4" luann plywood, use
1/2" or 5/8" screws, for 1/2" luann- use 3/8"screws. You can make little
hidey-holes by covering the front of a few shelves and covering the front
panels with carpet. Luann is very strong and very light weight.

Give your cats a real treat and build 2 columns- one on each side of a
window. Use a long piece of shelving for the top and middle shelves to
create bridges across the window- the middle bridge makes a great perch for
the cats to look out the window. The bridges will also provide escape
routes to the right column for a cat to come down in case the other cat is
blocking the way down on the left column. They also give the cats a great
place to chase each other- up one column across the bridges and down the
other column.

Take a look at these illustrations. When you see what they look like,
you'll see how *easy* they are to build.

http://www.maxshouse.com/Environment...l_walkways.jpg

http://www.maxshouse.com/Environment...l_walkways.jpg

Phil.


--
To email (remove annoying hyphens)

j-u-l-i
at
e-c-t-dot-o-r-g
  #14  
Old October 25th 05, 06:57 PM
bookbug2005
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Repellent: Methyl Nonyl Ketone?

I've tried the Methyl Nonyl Ketone, and it "works" for about 24-48
hours--until the odor evaporates. To me, it smells like really strong
pine. So while it will repel a kitty, repeated applications are
necessary. Better to find more permanent solutions.

Michelle

  #15  
Old October 26th 05, 03:16 PM
No More Retail
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Repellent: Methyl Nonyl Ketone?

Chemical substances
Strychnine, Sodium fluoroacetate, Phosphorus, Zinc Phosphide:
rat/mouse/mole/roach poisons, rodents killed by same. Phosphorus is also
found in fireworks, matches, matchboxes, and fertilizer.
Arsenic, Metaldehyde, Lead: slug/snail bait; some ant poisons, weed killers
and insecticides; arsenic is a common impurity found in many chemicals.
Commercial paints, linoleum, batteries are sources of lead.
Warfarin (Decon; Pindone): grain feeds used as rat/mouse poison, Also used
as a prescription anti-coagulant for humans, various brand names, such as
coumadin. The animal bleeds to death. Vitamin-K is antidote: look for
purplish spots on white of eyes and gums (at this point animal is VERY
sick).
Antifreeze (ethylene glycol): from cars. Wash down any from your driveway as
this is "good tasting" but highly toxic to most animals.
Organophosphates and Carbamates (Dichlorvos, Ectoral, Malathion, Sevin (in
high percentages) etc), Chlorinated Hydrocarbons (Chloradane, Toxaphene,
Lindane, Methoxychlor: flea/parasite treatments, insecticides.
Petroleum products: gasoline, kerosene, turpentine.
Corrosives (acid and alkali): household cleaners; drain decloggers;
commercial solvents.
Many household cleaning products. Pine-oil products are very toxic and
should be avoided or rinsed thoroughly (bleach is a better alternative). In
particular, avoid items containing Phenol.
Garbage (food poisoning): carrion; decomposing foods; animal manure.
People Medicines: antihistamines, pain relievers (esp. aspirin), sleeping
pills, diet pills, heart preparations and vitamins. Anything smelling of
wintergreen or having methyl salicylate as an ingredient. Tylenol
(acetominophen) will kill cats.


  #16  
Old November 7th 05, 07:54 AM
~^Johnny^~
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Repellent: Methyl Nonyl Ketone?

On Mon, 24 Oct 2005 23:52:10 GMT, Juls wrote:

I'm getting ready to order one of those laser mice toys from Drs.
Foster and Smith (our Pet Smart is out of stock until the holidays) and
am tempted to order some of that spray cat repellent that contains
Methyl Nonyl Ketone.


I use herbal remedies. Especially effective is the dried flowers and
leaves of 'Salvia elegans', AKA "Pineapple sage". It grows well in
most zones, like s full/partial sun, tolerates misture and drought,
and is a memeber of the mint family. HOWEVER: one caveat: it cannot
be moved, once it is established, due to a deep taproot (unlike most
oterr mints). It must be propagated by seeds or cuttings, only.

Another less effective herb (also a member of the mint family) is
'Mentha pulegium', or pennyroyal. It is a strong insect repellant,
but not so strong for cats, and it can be toxic if ingested.

'Melissa officionales' (Lemon Balm), is also less effective than
Pineapple sage, but at least it is non-toxic, unlike pennyroyal.
And it does repel cats (unless planted next to 'Nepeta cataria'). g.

'Mentha piperita' (Peppermint), may also repel cats and dogs, and
essential oil of peppermint is quite safe (unlike that of pennyroyal).


Forget man-made keytones and other pesticides. They either don't
work, are hazardous, or are environmentally unsafe.



--
-john
wide-open at throttle dot info
 




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