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HELP! My cat runs my house!



 
 
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  #11  
Old November 26th 08, 02:16 AM posted to rec.pets.cats.health+behav
AR[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 20
Default HELP! My cat runs my house!

On Nov 25, 7:19 pm, "dejablues" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Nov 24, 8:47 pm, AR wrote:



Thanks everyone. I think he's about 8 or 9. A tenant left him. He was
a used cat ;-). He still has a waist, but his stomach hangs a bit. The
behavior started right after I had locked him the bathroom for a half
hour as he wasn't allowing my mom to eat in peace. He peed on the rug
there.We kept the rug up until needed and the behavior stopped even
though there were other rugs he had access to.. I heard rubber backing
attracts them and they are all rubber backed. He also uses the litter
box to pee. I will pay more attention to the amount and scent. He
seems to do though as a protest when he doesn't get what he wants. He
doesn't seem to drink that much. He uses his litter box most of the
time and starts peeing on the rugs when he doesn't get his way or
wants to annoy me.. He hadn't peed on the other rugs for several
months after we took the other one up, but started to in the last few
weeks. I read if there is an infection they associate the litter box
with pain and pee on something soft, but he uses the box daily. He
seems fine otherwise. He does run away when I yell at him.


In addition to what Peter said, you need to stop yelling at him and locking
him away when his behavior inconveniences you. He is desperately trying to
tell you something and you aren't listening. Why would he trust you and want
to please you if you are scaring him so.

And take him to the vet, ASAP. Cats with urinary problems will sometimes pee
in their box as well, and symptoms can some and go. He is not doing it to
spite or annoy you, because even though we sometimes think so, they do no
think like people.
Make the effort to bond with him, or give him away.



He's always gone out although I know he shouldn't as he's declawed. I
love to watch him run outside and he can't do that indoors. He will
get heavier I would think. I just don't think it's fair to keep him in
to sit around all day, and sleep and eat. We have loads of windows he
can perch next to and look out, but don't they also need to run and
get exercise? We still let him out it's just not at exactly the time
he wants. He meows his head off and then gets ****ed off literally if
I won't let him out! I don't want to let him out of the apt. as if I
can't go down and open the front door, and no one else lets him out he
pees in the basement as there's no litter box there.


Thanks again guys for all your help.


You have a lot going on. DO test for a urinary infection, diabetes or
kidney stones before engaging in any disciplinary behavior. Further to
that, if your cat is a good eater (and 16 pounds might suggest that)
you might try getting nutmeg grater and grating a *SMALL* amount of
natural Vitamin C into his food every other day until you have a good
diagnosis for any other problems (and tell your Vet that you are doing
this). This will serve to acidify his urine which will help dissolve
stones (if that is the problem) and flush out any sort of fungal
infection. It WILL NOT help any other sort of infection - but it will
cause a small amount of burning if there is such an infection - and
your cat's reaction will be indicative. Our vet strongly suggests the
Vitamin C treatment for male cats prone to stones as a continuing
preventative treatment, and whenever treating for an infection
suggests it as a palliative during the rest of the treatment. Small =
a few mg. no more. Natural, so that it will not repel the cat. It will
not help for diabetes at all.

Consider that a cat that has been declawed would be as if you had your
fingers cut off at the first knuckle. It is a painful procedure when
it happens and causes continuing irritation for the rest of the cat's
life. You did state that this was a 'used' cat - from the fact that it
has beend declawed it has been very badly used. How you got it - as an
abandoned left-over - suggests the same. Likely the cat bites a bit
more than normal - adaptation to not having claws with which to signal
displeasure. Do understand that cats with this handicap must never be
outdoors without supervision. They are utterly helpless if attacked,
cannot climb properly and cannot even run properly should they need
claws for traction. This adds to your complications.

So, verify that it is healthy. Treat it for any problems you discover.
Once treated, there are enzymatic solvents to remove any traces of old
urine and gentle behavior modification will take care of the rest.

A couple of cautions when it comes to cleaning:

a) Bleach: Do not use bleach immediately around your cat. It is a
perfectly acceptable cleaning agent as long as your cat is not
directly exposed to it or will not walk on a wet bleached surface
(then licking its paws). As you keep reading, bleach may become more
and more attractive.

b) Pine-Sol or any Pine-Oil cleaner: Don't. Ever. Pine oils are
analogous to Phenols and cause quick and often permanent damage to any
of the cat species, large or small. They contain terpenes which
damages their livers and by extension their kidneys. Read any cleaner
labels and keep away from anything containing terpenes (pine oils).
Similarly menthol - less toxic, but still related to terpenes.

c) Anything at all containing Phenol - liquid Lysol or _ANY_ similar
material. Just don't. Toxic in microscopic amounts, fatal in tiny
amounts, and typically such cleaners are designed to leave a
antiseptic residue - not good.

The general rule-of-thumb around cats is any cleaner or solvent that
goes 'milky' in water should be avoided.

You will get through this and the both of you will be happier for it.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


Thanks Peter for telling him off. I just tried to ignore it. No, I
didn't declaw him, or neuter him, and if I didn't take him in he would
be out on the street as a stray, or worse yet, picked up and killed.
He leads a great life and is spoiled rotten and lives like a king. He
gets ham, and milk--no he's not kosher, fresh chicken and turkey, tuna
and more. I do love cats, but I am a novice at it. We have taken up
all the small area rugs. If he continues to pee out of the box, I will
definitely take him to the vet ASAP. I will see if his urine is sweet
and check for blood in it. He's been outside for 6+ years with no
issues, but your advice is well taken.

He is a little ****, but he's my big little **** and I do love him. I
will pick him up and give him a good long cuddle and tell him I'm
sorry for yelling at him. Thanks again for all your contributions to
my problems with him.
  #12  
Old November 26th 08, 02:40 AM posted to rec.pets.cats.health+behav
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 126
Default HELP! My cat runs my house!

On Nov 25, 8:16*pm, AR wrote:

Thanks Peter for telling him off. I just tried to ignore it. No, I
didn't declaw him, or neuter him, and if I didn't take him in he would
be out on the street as a stray, or worse yet, picked up and killed.
He leads a great life and is spoiled rotten and lives like a king. He
gets ham, and milk--no he's not kosher, fresh chicken and turkey, tuna
and more. I do love cats, but I am a novice at it. We have taken up
all the small area rugs. If he continues to pee out of the box, I will
definitely take him to the vet ASAP. I will see if his urine is sweet
and check for blood in it. He's been outside for 6+ years with no
issues, but your advice is well taken.

He is a little ****, but he's my big little **** and I do love him. I
will pick him up and give him a good long cuddle and tell him I'm
sorry for yelling at him. Thanks again for all your contributions to
my problems with him


A couple of things - which might help some.

a) About 80% of all adult cats are lactose-intolerant. So, milk is not
always a good thing to feed him, even if he really loves it. Similarly
cheese, ice-cream or other milk-based foods.
b) Many forms of ham and processed meats are very salty. This could
(and does often in altered cats) contribute to kidney stones. There is
_NOTHING_ wrong with feeding cats with the occasional bit of 'people-
food', but not as a steady diet. High-salt, high-preservative stuff
should be quite limited. Processed meats are significant offenders
here.
c) Cats need taurine as a steady part of their diet. Without it, they
will have all sorts of problems and eventually get several sorts of
nasty deficiency diseases as well as severe digestive problems. So, a
proper 'cat food' should be the bulk of his diet. Or, if your cat will
take it, you may use taurine supplements instead. I know of several
'vintage' cats who must have a very bland diet and do quite well on
white chicken, corn sprouts for roughage (just plant some popcorn) and
a high-taurine cat-specific supplement. Your vet can advise you on
this and other diet options, nor is it at all expensive.
d) There is also nothing wrong with neutering cats - the alternative
in males is often, but not always, scent-marking, roaming, fighting
and other potentially unhappy behaviors - and unwanted kittens, yet
worse. In females, continuous litters, roaming, marking... .

You are doing a good thing by taking on this companion. And do not
expect to know everything or always do the politically correct thing
every time. Life is a balance between risk and happiness for cats as
well as their people, and only you know what is best for the two of
you. So, in the words of the poet, illigitimi non carborundum, follow
your heart and your common sense.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
  #13  
Old November 26th 08, 03:09 AM posted to rec.pets.cats.health+behav
dejablues[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 110
Default HELP! My cat runs my house!


"AR" wrote in message
...
He
gets ham, and milk--no he's not kosher, fresh chicken and turkey, tuna
and more. I do love cats, but I am a novice at it. We have taken up
all the small area rugs. If he continues to pee out of the box, I will
definitely take him to the vet ASAP. I will see if his urine is sweet
and check for blood in it.


Regardless of where he pees, he *needs* to go to the vet. You may see blood,
but by the time you do, the cat is in serious condition. You will not see
traces of blood, or white blood cells, crystals, or bacteria is his urine,
only a urine test can show those. His urine may smell stronger than usual,
or it may not, and sweet-smelling urine may or may not happen, but don't
wait - take him to the vet. You seem to be resisting the vet, and I'm
telling you now, it may get expensive.
He also needs a diet of good cat food. What you are feeding him now is fine
for a very occasional treat, but not as his whole source of nutrition. Salty
and rich foods put a tremendous load on his kidneys. Stop feeding him that
stuff and giving him milk. Encourage him to drink water by changing it
frequently os leaving a tap running, if he likes that.

People here have lots of cat experience so don't get ****ed when they get
frustrated with noobs, and don't just listen to the advice of people who
talk nice to you. You will miss a lot that way.


  #14  
Old November 26th 08, 04:11 AM posted to rec.pets.cats.health+behav
honeybunch
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 154
Default HELP! My cat runs my house!

On Nov 25, 7:19*am, " wrote:
On Nov 24, 8:47*pm, AR wrote:



Thanks everyone. I think he's about 8 or 9. A tenant left him. He was
a used cat ;-). He still has a waist, but his stomach hangs a bit. The
behavior started right after I had locked him the bathroom for a half
hour as he wasn't allowing my mom to eat in peace. He peed on the rug
there.We kept the rug up until needed and the behavior stopped even
though there were other rugs he had access to.. I heard rubber backing
attracts them and they are all rubber backed. He also uses the litter
box to pee. I will pay more attention to the amount and scent. He
seems to do though as a protest when he doesn't get what he wants. He
doesn't seem to drink that much. He uses his litter box most of the
time and starts peeing on the rugs when he doesn't get his way or
wants to annoy me.. He hadn't peed on the other rugs for several
months after we took the other one up, but started to in the last few
weeks. I read if there is an infection they associate the litter box
with pain and pee on something soft, but he uses the box daily. He
seems fine otherwise. He does run away when I yell at him.


He's always gone out although I know he shouldn't as he's declawed. I
love to watch him run outside and he can't do that indoors. He will
get heavier I would think. I just don't think it's fair to keep him in
to sit around all day, and sleep and eat. We have loads of windows he
can perch next to and look out, but don't they also need to run and
get exercise? We still let him out it's just not at exactly the time
he wants. *He meows his head off and then gets ****ed off literally if
I won't let him out! I don't want to let him out of the apt. as if I
can't go down and open the front door, and no one else lets him out he
pees in the basement as there's no litter box there.


Thanks again guys for all your help.


You have a lot going on. DO test for a urinary infection, diabetes or
kidney stones before engaging in any disciplinary behavior. Further to
that, if your cat is a good eater (and 16 pounds might suggest that)
you might try getting nutmeg grater and grating a *SMALL* amount of
natural Vitamin C into his food every other day until you have a good
diagnosis for any other problems (and tell your Vet that you are doing
this). This will serve to acidify his urine which will help dissolve
stones (if that is the problem) and flush out any sort of fungal
infection. It WILL NOT help any other sort of infection - but it will
cause a small amount of burning if there is such an infection - and
your cat's reaction will be indicative. Our vet strongly suggests the
Vitamin C treatment for male cats prone to stones as a continuing
preventative treatment, and whenever treating for an infection
suggests it as a palliative during the rest of the treatment. Small =
a few mg. no more. Natural, so that it will not repel the cat. It will
not help for diabetes at all.

Consider that a cat that has been declawed would be as if you had your
fingers cut off at the first knuckle. It is a painful procedure when
it happens and causes continuing irritation for the rest of the cat's
life. You did state that this was a 'used' cat - from the fact that it
has beend declawed it has been very badly used. How you got it - as an
abandoned left-over - suggests the same. Likely the cat bites a bit
more than normal - adaptation to not having claws with which to signal
displeasure. Do understand that cats with this handicap must never be
outdoors without supervision. They are utterly helpless if attacked,
cannot climb properly and cannot even run properly should they need
claws for traction. This adds to your complications.

So, verify that it is healthy. Treat it for any problems you discover.
Once treated, there are enzymatic solvents to remove any traces of old
urine and gentle behavior modification will take care of the rest.

A couple of cautions when it comes to cleaning:

a) Bleach: Do not use bleach immediately around your cat. It is a
perfectly acceptable cleaning agent as long as your cat is not
directly exposed to it or will not walk on a wet bleached surface
(then licking its paws). As you keep reading, bleach may become more
and more attractive.

b) Pine-Sol or any Pine-Oil cleaner: Don't. Ever. Pine oils are
analogous to Phenols and cause quick and often permanent damage to any
of the cat species, large or small. They contain terpenes which
damages their livers and by extension their kidneys. Read any cleaner
labels and keep away from anything containing terpenes (pine oils).
Similarly menthol - less toxic, but still related to terpenes.

c) Anything at all containing Phenol - liquid Lysol or _ANY_ similar
material. Just don't. Toxic in microscopic amounts, fatal in tiny
amounts, and typically such cleaners are designed to leave a
antiseptic residue - not good.

The general rule-of-thumb around cats is any cleaner or solvent that
goes 'milky' in water should be avoided.

You will get through this and the both of you will be happier for it.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


The nutmeg idea sounded so interesting I just tried it and Snappy felt
INCREDIBLY INSULTED. His eyes got enormous and he backed up looking
VERY VERY BETRAYED. Such a poor cat. But he perked up and now he is
chasing a little ball.

Your story about what declawing actually is all about is horrid. How
unkind to do that to an animal.

AR's cat has had a hard life and AR is very kind to come to his
rescue.
  #15  
Old November 26th 08, 02:50 PM posted to rec.pets.cats.health+behav
AR[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 20
Default HELP! My cat runs my house!

On Nov 25, 8:40 pm, " wrote:
On Nov 25, 8:16 pm, AR wrote:

Thanks Peter for telling him off. I just tried to ignore it. No, I
didn't declaw him, or neuter him, and if I didn't take him in he would
be out on the street as a stray, or worse yet, picked up and killed.
He leads a great life and is spoiled rotten and lives like a king. He
gets ham, and milk--no he's not kosher, fresh chicken and turkey, tuna
and more. I do love cats, but I am a novice at it. We have taken up
all the small area rugs. If he continues to pee out of the box, I will
definitely take him to the vet ASAP. I will see if his urine is sweet
and check for blood in it. He's been outside for 6+ years with no
issues, but your advice is well taken.


He is a little ****, but he's my big little **** and I do love him. I
will pick him up and give him a good long cuddle and tell him I'm
sorry for yelling at him. Thanks again for all your contributions to
my problems with him


A couple of things - which might help some.

a) About 80% of all adult cats are lactose-intolerant. So, milk is not
always a good thing to feed him, even if he really loves it. Similarly
cheese, ice-cream or other milk-based foods.
b) Many forms of ham and processed meats are very salty. This could
(and does often in altered cats) contribute to kidney stones. There is
_NOTHING_ wrong with feeding cats with the occasional bit of 'people-
food', but not as a steady diet. High-salt, high-preservative stuff
should be quite limited. Processed meats are significant offenders
here.
c) Cats need taurine as a steady part of their diet. Without it, they
will have all sorts of problems and eventually get several sorts of
nasty deficiency diseases as well as severe digestive problems. So, a
proper 'cat food' should be the bulk of his diet. Or, if your cat will
take it, you may use taurine supplements instead. I know of several
'vintage' cats who must have a very bland diet and do quite well on
white chicken, corn sprouts for roughage (just plant some popcorn) and
a high-taurine cat-specific supplement. Your vet can advise you on
this and other diet options, nor is it at all expensive.
d) There is also nothing wrong with neutering cats - the alternative
in males is often, but not always, scent-marking, roaming, fighting
and other potentially unhappy behaviors - and unwanted kittens, yet
worse. In females, continuous litters, roaming, marking... .

You are doing a good thing by taking on this companion. And do not
expect to know everything or always do the politically correct thing
every time. Life is a balance between risk and happiness for cats as
well as their people, and only you know what is best for the two of
you. So, in the words of the poet, illigitimi non carborundum, follow
your heart and your common sense.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


Hi again! The bulk of his diet is Healhwise cat food. I chose it as it
had no artificial ingredients in it , or chicken by products. He just
gets a 1/2 slice of ham about once a week. I didn't realize salt was a
problem. Thanks for letting me know. He has no loose stools or other
problems from the milk I can see so maybe he's not lactose intolerant.
If he's lactose intolerant wouldn't there be symptoms of that? I don't
want to give it to him if it's no good for him.

I've been reading a lot about spite and cats on the net and have read
stories where the cats behavior could only be spite, and have read
where cat professionals DO think some cat behavior is spite. I believe
if a cat can hiss when displeased he can do something he knows his
owner doesn't like either if displeased, like pee. Since it happens
within 10 minutes of when he doesn't get what he wants it is a bit
suspect. I will watch him carefully and keep him fin or a few days so
I can watch him. I'm not there where the cat is all the time, as he's
taken care of by my mom's caretaker when I'm not there. He will go to
the vet on Monday if needed.

Thanks again for all your help!
  #16  
Old November 26th 08, 08:54 PM posted to rec.pets.cats.health+behav
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 126
Default HELP! My cat runs my house!

On Nov 25, 10:11*pm, honeybunch wrote:
On Nov 25, 7:19*am, " wrote:





On Nov 24, 8:47*pm, AR wrote:


Thanks everyone. I think he's about 8 or 9. A tenant left him. He was
a used cat ;-). He still has a waist, but his stomach hangs a bit. The
behavior started right after I had locked him the bathroom for a half
hour as he wasn't allowing my mom to eat in peace. He peed on the rug
there.We kept the rug up until needed and the behavior stopped even
though there were other rugs he had access to.. I heard rubber backing
attracts them and they are all rubber backed. He also uses the litter
box to pee. I will pay more attention to the amount and scent. He
seems to do though as a protest when he doesn't get what he wants. He
doesn't seem to drink that much. He uses his litter box most of the
time and starts peeing on the rugs when he doesn't get his way or
wants to annoy me.. He hadn't peed on the other rugs for several
months after we took the other one up, but started to in the last few
weeks. I read if there is an infection they associate the litter box
with pain and pee on something soft, but he uses the box daily. He
seems fine otherwise. He does run away when I yell at him.


He's always gone out although I know he shouldn't as he's declawed. I
love to watch him run outside and he can't do that indoors. He will
get heavier I would think. I just don't think it's fair to keep him in
to sit around all day, and sleep and eat. We have loads of windows he
can perch next to and look out, but don't they also need to run and
get exercise? We still let him out it's just not at exactly the time
he wants. *He meows his head off and then gets ****ed off literally if
I won't let him out! I don't want to let him out of the apt. as if I
can't go down and open the front door, and no one else lets him out he
pees in the basement as there's no litter box there.


Thanks again guys for all your help.


You have a lot going on. DO test for a urinary infection, diabetes or
kidney stones before engaging in any disciplinary behavior. Further to
that, if your cat is a good eater (and 16 pounds might suggest that)
you might try getting nutmeg grater and grating a *SMALL* amount of
natural Vitamin C into his food every other day until you have a good
diagnosis for any other problems (and tell your Vet that you are doing
this). This will serve to acidify his urine which will help dissolve
stones (if that is the problem) and flush out any sort of fungal
infection. It WILL NOT help any other sort of infection - but it will
cause a small amount of burning if there is such an infection - and
your cat's reaction will be indicative. Our vet strongly suggests the
Vitamin C treatment for male cats prone to stones as a continuing
preventative treatment, and whenever treating for an infection
suggests it as a palliative during the rest of the treatment. Small =
a few mg. no more. Natural, so that it will not repel the cat. It will
not help for diabetes at all.


Consider that a cat that has been declawed would be as if you had your
fingers cut off at the first knuckle. It is a painful procedure when
it happens and causes continuing irritation for the rest of the cat's
life. You did state that this was a 'used' cat - from the fact that it
has beend declawed it has been very badly used. How you got it - as an
abandoned left-over - suggests the same. Likely the cat bites a bit
more than normal - adaptation to not having claws with which to signal
displeasure. Do understand that cats with this handicap must never be
outdoors without supervision. They are utterly helpless if attacked,
cannot climb properly and cannot even run properly should they need
claws for traction. This adds to your complications.


So, verify that it is healthy. Treat it for any problems you discover.
Once treated, there are enzymatic solvents to remove any traces of old
urine and gentle behavior modification will take care of the rest.


A couple of cautions when it comes to cleaning:


a) Bleach: Do not use bleach immediately around your cat. It is a
perfectly acceptable cleaning agent as long as your cat is not
directly exposed to it or will not walk on a wet bleached surface
(then licking its paws). As you keep reading, bleach may become more
and more attractive.


b) Pine-Sol or any Pine-Oil cleaner: Don't. Ever. Pine oils are
analogous to Phenols and cause quick and often permanent damage to any
of the cat species, large or small. They contain terpenes which
damages their livers and by extension their kidneys. Read any cleaner
labels and keep away from anything containing terpenes (pine oils).
Similarly menthol - less toxic, but still related to terpenes.


c) Anything at all containing Phenol - liquid Lysol or _ANY_ similar
material. Just don't. Toxic in microscopic amounts, fatal in tiny
amounts, and typically such cleaners are designed to leave a
antiseptic residue - not good.


The general rule-of-thumb around cats is any cleaner or solvent that
goes 'milky' in water should be avoided.


You will get through this and the both of you will be happier for it.


Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


The nutmeg idea sounded so interesting I just tried it and Snappy felt
INCREDIBLY INSULTED. *His eyes got enormous and he backed up looking
VERY *VERY BETRAYED. *Such a poor cat. *But he perked up and now he is
chasing a little ball.

Your story about what *declawing actually is all about is horrid. *How
unkind to do that to an animal.

AR's cat has had a hard life and AR is very kind to come to his
rescue.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Um.... nutmeg GRATER to grate NATURAL VITAMIN C into his food to
acidify his urine.

If you do, by some strange confluence of circumstances, manage to get
nutmeg inside your cat... well... just be aware that as far as cats
are concerned, it is a natural psychedelic. No wonder his eyes got
huge - you were offering him feline LSD (note, not every cat is
affected by nutmeg as psychedelic, but all cats can get ill from it -
so avoid it anyway).

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
  #17  
Old November 30th 08, 03:12 AM posted to rec.pets.cats.health+behav
Phil P.
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,027
Default HELP! My cat runs my house!


wrote in message
...
Or, as is often the case, neutered males will have
a (relatively) small urethra and be prone to bladder infections and/or
kidney stones.

That's an old, outdated, and very dangerous myth.that you really shouldn't
perpetuate. There
are more than enough idiots that don't neuter their pets for a variety of
utterly stupid reasons as it is- please don't give them another stupid
reason.

The below is an excerpt from a report by the Winn Foundation. Although it
was designed to support early-age neutering, the results still apply since
the control group weren't neutered until sexual maturity.

"Group 1 (11 kittens) were neutered or spayed at 7 weeks of age.
Group 2 (11 kittens) were neutered or spayed at 7 months.
Group 3 (the control group of 9 kittens) were not neutered until maturity
and after the completion of the first phase of the study at 12 months.

"Observations of urinary tract development showed no differences between the
three groups other than the differences related to sex and these were
consistent across all groups. The investigators measured the diameter of the
urethra in the male kittens only and found no differences between the
groups. Concerns have been raised that early neutering would result in
smaller diameters in the urinary tract, resulting in an increased incidence
of cystitis and related problems. This does not appear to be the case. The
main differences observed between the groups occurred in the comparison of
secondary sex characteristics. Males were examined for differences in the
development of the penis and prepuce (skin covering the penis), as well as
for the development of penile spines. The penile spines were absent in Group
1, smaller than normal in Group 2, and normally developed in Group 3. In the
examination of the female kittens, investigators found that the vulvas were
more infantile in Groups 1 and 2 and normal in Group 3. None of these
differences had any impact on the ability to catheterize the kittens.
Concerns that development of the urinary tract might be arrested or impaired
by early spaying and neutering proved unsupported. "

http://www.cfa.org/articles/health/early-neuter.html


Phil


  #18  
Old August 13th 09, 10:21 PM posted to rec.pets.cats.health+behav
John Doe
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 381
Default HELP! My cat runs my house!

AR wrote:

We have a 16 lb. nuetered American shorthair that's the man of
the house. If he meows and I don't let him out he goes and pees
on my kitchen rug a few minutes later! He shows his displeasure
in peeing on any rug he can find if he doesn't like something.
He also pees in the little box, and I'm sure this is spite. I've
taken up any rug I can, and have put citronella oil the rest,
but no dice. He free feeds and I have replaced his food dish
with the soiled rug for a few hours so he would get the idea,
brought him over to the soiled rug and yelled at him, put his
food dish on top of that rug as I know cats won't eat where they
pee, but he just went over to the other side to access the dish.


I suppose this is too late for you, but here is some real
practical advice from a technician... If you want to keep a cat,
the litter box area must be tension free. When an excrement
related problem develops, you must use your head and solve it
indirectly. The litter box area is critical that way, do not
discipline your cat in the litter box area.

Good luck.
  #19  
Old August 13th 09, 10:26 PM posted to rec.pets.cats.health+behav,free.usenet
John Doe
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 381
Default HELP! My cat runs my house!

Longtime regular patently offensive troll,
uses the pretense of a love for cats
as an excuse to insult others


"cybercat" cyberpurrs yahoo.com wrote:

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Subject: HELP! My cat runs my house!
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"AR" alanryder aol.com wrote

He's always gone out although I know he shouldn't as he's declawed.



Asshole.\\\\\\\\\\\\\\




  #20  
Old August 13th 09, 10:35 PM posted to rec.pets.cats.health+behav
John Doe
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 381
Default HELP! My cat runs my house!

" wrote:

"cybercat" wrote:
"AR" wrote


He's always gone out although I know he shouldn't as he's
declawed.


Definitely not. That is something I look for in a stray. If it is
declawed, I would try hard to adopt it. It probably would be a
challenge to keep healthy, like making stuff that it can (and
would be motivated to) climb on, without having to use its claws.

Asshole.\\\\\\\\\\\\\\


She did not declaw the cat, JudgeMental.

You are a piece of work - and dangerous to boot.

Had the OP followed your initial advice and her cat (likely) had
a medical condition, your advice would have killed it. Keep that
in what passes for your mind as you read further.

And now you blame her for the declawing? She clearly stated
"Used Cat". From her questions, she is also clearly not a "cat
person", nor has had much experience with cats. Further, she is
trying, reading up on them and coming here. Where she meets a
thoughtless jackass - you. Imagine how much that will turn her
on towards asking for advice.


That is the problem. JudgeMental and her defender pretend to love
cats, while she insults people, turning them off to asking about
or discussing cats here.
 




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