Tape Worms...

On Jan 17, 6:51*pm, "Allan Smith" wrote:
Ivy,

What kind of worm?


Tapeworm. A very very tiny tapeworm... as compared in size to what I
found before I dewormed them on December 15th... where that segment
was previously 3x's thicker.

I usually feed them some high-end jack mackerel once a week fortified
with Nordic Naturals Omega-3 for pets... on a dark throw rug. I
spotted it after they finished eating and left... just like the last
time when I discovered a problem in Dec. after bringing in two outdoor
mousers.

I use cedarcide for everything. I believe it's a much healthier
alternative to other products. It kills fleas, their larvae and the
eggs... not to mention earmites etc. Makes the house smell like a
cedar closet, too.

http://www.cedarcidestore.com/ANIMALHEALTH.html




Cats can get roundworms not just in the litterbox, but from soil, grooming,
or elsewhere as well. The typical treatment is two, sometimes three,
wormings, three weeks apart.

http://www.marvistavet.com/html/body...__kittens.html

Tapeworms are caused by ingesting fleas, either on their prey, or in
grooming themselves or each other. The typical treatement for tapeworms is
to get rid of fleas, then worm once. Though some vets advise a second
worming three weeks later, it can be skipped to see if any segments
reappear. I've never had to administer a second dose if fleas are not
present. If it is tapeworms that are back, it is likely that you have a flea
problem.

http://www.marvistavet.com/html/body_tapeworm.html

Drontal is my choice for a tablet womer - it gets roundworms, tapeworms, and
hookworms.

Profender is my choice for a spot-on treatment that gets roundworms,
tapeworms, and hookworms, and it is effective for three months, thus doesn't
need to be repeated in three weeks.

"Advantage" is a spot-on treatment that gets adult fleas.

"Advantage Multi" ("Advocate" in Europe) is a spot-on treatment that gets
adult fleas, roundworms and hookworms (but not tapeworms), ear mites, and
prevents heartworm (heartworm is transmitted by mosquitoes - not typically a
problem for indoor cats).

If you have a flea infestation problem, Revolution may be a better choice,
as it kills adult fleas, flea larvae, and flea eggs, both on the cat as well
as in the environment, in addition to ear mites, roundworm and hookworm (but
not tapeworm), and prevents heartworms.

Best prices I've found are here, and no prescription is required:

Drontal -http://www.vidalspets.com/epages/vidalspets.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Sho...

Profender -http://www.vidalspets.com/epages/vidalspets.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Sho...

Advantage -http://www.vidalspets.com/epages/vidalspets.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Sho...

Advantage Multi -http://www.vidalspets.com/epages/vidalspets.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Sho...

Revolution -http://www.vidalspets.com/epages/vidalspets.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Sho...

I use Advantage on the indoor cats (about $7/month) for normal flea control,
and Advantage Multi on the outdoor cats (about $10/month). Advantage Multi
is a little more expensive, but not much more than other flea-control
products, and does much more than just control fleas.

A neighbor who has a flea infestation in his house used Revolution on his
dogs, and reported excellent results within 30 days, without resorting to
some of the more tedious methods often used when fleas become established
indoors.

Allan

--
One asks, many answer, all learn -- Plato, on the 'Forum
---
True civility is when every one gives to every other one every right
*that they claim for themselves.

"Ivy LittleVine" wrote in message

...



I am the somewhat inexperienced foster mother of multiple INDOOR
felines living in a small space. I recently dewormed my crew less than
a month ago for the first time and noticed this morning that They-y-
y'r-r-r-e-e-e Ba-a-a-c-c-c-k-k-k !-!-!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ivy,

Unless there are fleas in the litterbox (the dry clay dehydrates and kills
them) changing the box won't help unless the cat is eating litter and
happens upon a flea. There is only one way to get a tapeworm, and that is by
ingesting a flea.

An easy and highly effective way to check for environmental fleas is to put
a large bowl half full of soapy water on the floor, and put a bright
(incandescent, not flourescent) light a foot or two above it. The heat and
the light very strongly attract fleas from up to 25 feet away, they jump for
the light, are stunned by the impact with a hard surface, can't hold on to
the hot glass, and fall into the bowl and drown. A 50-or-so watt
reflector-type bulb directly above the bowl and pointed down at it is an
excellent choice, but a standard bulb works too. If the bowl is
light-colored, the drowned fleas are easily seen. This is an easy way to
check room-by-room to find the infested room(s). Many people are surprised
when they return to check the bowl in a couple of hours.

While there is much anecdotal discussion of cedar oil, and some aggressive
marketing of products, cedar oil is a repellent [1], not a killer, and is
more useful as a preventative than a "cure". Its method of action is as a
feeding-depressant, eventually starving the insect. That can take some time,
however, and does not affect existing eggs, larvae, and pupae.

See "Use profile" at
http://www.epa.gov/oppsrrd1/REDs/fac...s/3150fact.pdf
and footnote [1] below.

It has been found to be safe for dogs, but potentially toxic to the more
inefficient liver of the cat [2].

I've not yet met or heard-of a Vet that recommended cedar oil products for
cats. I see a lot of promotional material that says "prudent Vets recommend
....", or "Veterinarian-recommended", but I've not seen a "prudent Vet"
named, or a Vet willing to go "on record" recommending _only_ a cedar oil
product (if recommending one at all). I'm quite receptive to a discussion
with one, if I could find one.

http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...of-fleas-on-my

Borax powder remains the safest and most effective treatment for carpets and
floors, and many Vets sell such products, but they will caution you that it
does not adddress the problem of fleas on the pet, as physical contact with
the boric acid is required ot absorb the oils on the flea's body and cause
them to deydrate. It also has less effect on eggs, larvae, and pupae.

In short, the flea's life-cycle is complex and highly adapted to survival,
and thus difficult to effectively attack at only one of its four stages.

Good luck.

Allan

[1] A sampling of herbal and essential-oil product evaluations by the UK's
Control of Substances Hazardous to Health approval-evaluations of some of
these products is at
http://www.hse.gov.uk/biocides/copr/...rovals0405.pdf
Note that most are classified as 'repellants', or "for repellant use only".
In most cases, the suffix "-cide" may not be used in labelling, as the
product does not directly kill fleas (the UK is more strict about
truth-in-advertising and labelling than the US is).

[2] From http://www.messybeast.com/teatree.htm:

"Cedar Oil, also marketed as a flea treatment, is also highly toxic to cats.
It has been found to be toxic orally, when absorbed through the skin and an
irritant if the fumes are inhaled (if the fumes are concentrated enough it
may be absorbed through the lining of the lungs in toxic quantities). It is
irresponsibly marketed by Cedarcide as safe for pets, but COSHH and
toxicology data indicates it is toxic. Claims supporting Cedarcide are
highly biased and were written for dog treatments (dogs have very different
and more efficient liver function than cats). They are advertising claims,
not scientific claims, and perpetuate the misconception tha natural means
"safe". "

--
One asks, many answer, all learn -- Plato, on the 'Forum
---
True civility is when every one gives to every other one every right
that they claim for themselves.

"Ivy LittleVine" wrote in message
...
On Jan 17, 6:51 pm, "Allan Smith" wrote:
Ivy,

What kind of worm?


Tapeworm. A very very tiny tapeworm... as compared in size to what I
found before I dewormed them on December 15th... where that segment
was previously 3x's thicker.

"Allan Smith" wrote in message
...


There is only one way to get a tapeworm, and that is by
ingesting a flea.

Wrong again, Einstein! You're just chock full of erroneous information,
aren't you Professor??? *Two* species of tapeworm infect cats. Taenia.
taeniaeformis, and Dipylidium caninum. Taeniids are transmitted by eating
rodents or rabbits and only Dipylidium are flea-vectored. Make a note of
that.

This is the second time I had to correct your bogus information in as many
days. If you want to educate all us ignorant cat folk, at least make sure
your information is correct.

"Ivy LittleVine" wrote in message
...
On Jan 17, 10:14 am, "Matthew"
wrote:
you realize that what they have are caused by fleas right not the litter
box

"Ivy LittleVine" wrote in message

...



I am the somewhat inexperienced foster mother of multiple INDOOR
felines living in a small space. I recently dewormed my crew less than
a month ago for the first time and noticed this morning that They-y-
y'r-r-r-e-e-e Ba-a-a-c-c-c-k-k-k !-!-!

I went through my vet for the medication and successfully administered
roundworm and tapeworm medication to them at home myself. At $10 a
crack per cat... I cannot afford to do this on a continuous basis
every month.

Here's the problem...

After giving them their medication... when is the best time (how many
days do I wait?) before introducing their new litter boxes? and what
type of solution do I need to clean their paws/claws with to help
eliminate any possible re-infestations that can occur from them
cleaning their paws?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I use cedarcide...

You shouldn't use cedar oil products on or around cats- the aroma overwhelms
their olfactory senses and its potentially toxic to their liver.. Cats are
particularly sensitive to cedar aroma because of their huge (compared to
humans) olfactory epithelium, which can have an area 10 times larger than
ours. So an aroma that smells nice to you could be torturous for a cat.


we don't have fleas. Two were avid mousers that
lived outside until recently. The vet said eating mice/crickets etc.
was probably the original cause.

Your vet is correct. Two species of tapeworm infect cats. Taenia.
taeniaeformis, and Dipylidium caninum. Taeniids are transmitted by eating
rodents or rabbits and Dipylidium are flea-vectored.


Only one (the same cat) is once again
showing signs of the problem... but beings they all share the same
litter boxes everyone has to receive medication.

Cats cannot and do not acquire tapeworms by eating the segments or the tiny
egg packets-- a cat must ingest fleas or raw meat from birds, rodents, fish
or other mammals. These are called intermediate hosts and are essential to
the life cycle of the tapeworm.

One Droncit tablet each should solve your problem. Sometimes a second
treatment is necessary about a week or two later.

Phil