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#11
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Tape Worms...
On Jan 17, 6:51*pm, "Allan Smith" wrote:
Ivy, What kind of worm? Tapeworm. A very very tiny tapeworm... as compared in size to what I found before I dewormed them on December 15th... where that segment was previously 3x's thicker. I usually feed them some high-end jack mackerel once a week fortified with Nordic Naturals Omega-3 for pets... on a dark throw rug. I spotted it after they finished eating and left... just like the last time when I discovered a problem in Dec. after bringing in two outdoor mousers. I use cedarcide for everything. I believe it's a much healthier alternative to other products. It kills fleas, their larvae and the eggs... not to mention earmites etc. Makes the house smell like a cedar closet, too. http://www.cedarcidestore.com/ANIMALHEALTH.html Cats can get roundworms not just in the litterbox, but from soil, grooming, or elsewhere as well. The typical treatment is two, sometimes three, wormings, three weeks apart. http://www.marvistavet.com/html/body...__kittens.html Tapeworms are caused by ingesting fleas, either on their prey, or in grooming themselves or each other. The typical treatement for tapeworms is to get rid of fleas, then worm once. Though some vets advise a second worming three weeks later, it can be skipped to see if any segments reappear. I've never had to administer a second dose if fleas are not present. If it is tapeworms that are back, it is likely that you have a flea problem. http://www.marvistavet.com/html/body_tapeworm.html Drontal is my choice for a tablet womer - it gets roundworms, tapeworms, and hookworms. Profender is my choice for a spot-on treatment that gets roundworms, tapeworms, and hookworms, and it is effective for three months, thus doesn't need to be repeated in three weeks. "Advantage" is a spot-on treatment that gets adult fleas. "Advantage Multi" ("Advocate" in Europe) is a spot-on treatment that gets adult fleas, roundworms and hookworms (but not tapeworms), ear mites, and prevents heartworm (heartworm is transmitted by mosquitoes - not typically a problem for indoor cats). If you have a flea infestation problem, Revolution may be a better choice, as it kills adult fleas, flea larvae, and flea eggs, both on the cat as well as in the environment, in addition to ear mites, roundworm and hookworm (but not tapeworm), and prevents heartworms. Best prices I've found are here, and no prescription is required: Drontal -http://www.vidalspets.com/epages/vidalspets.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Sho... Profender -http://www.vidalspets.com/epages/vidalspets.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Sho... Advantage -http://www.vidalspets.com/epages/vidalspets.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Sho... Advantage Multi -http://www.vidalspets.com/epages/vidalspets.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Sho... Revolution -http://www.vidalspets.com/epages/vidalspets.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Sho... I use Advantage on the indoor cats (about $7/month) for normal flea control, and Advantage Multi on the outdoor cats (about $10/month). Advantage Multi is a little more expensive, but not much more than other flea-control products, and does much more than just control fleas. A neighbor who has a flea infestation in his house used Revolution on his dogs, and reported excellent results within 30 days, without resorting to some of the more tedious methods often used when fleas become established indoors. Allan -- One asks, many answer, all learn -- Plato, on the 'Forum --- True civility is when every one gives to every other one every right *that they claim for themselves. "Ivy LittleVine" wrote in message ... I am the somewhat inexperienced foster mother of multiple INDOOR felines living in a small space. I recently dewormed my crew less than a month ago for the first time and noticed this morning that They-y- y'r-r-r-e-e-e Ba-a-a-c-c-c-k-k-k !-!-!- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
#12
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Tape Worms...
Ivy,
Unless there are fleas in the litterbox (the dry clay dehydrates and kills them) changing the box won't help unless the cat is eating litter and happens upon a flea. There is only one way to get a tapeworm, and that is by ingesting a flea. An easy and highly effective way to check for environmental fleas is to put a large bowl half full of soapy water on the floor, and put a bright (incandescent, not flourescent) light a foot or two above it. The heat and the light very strongly attract fleas from up to 25 feet away, they jump for the light, are stunned by the impact with a hard surface, can't hold on to the hot glass, and fall into the bowl and drown. A 50-or-so watt reflector-type bulb directly above the bowl and pointed down at it is an excellent choice, but a standard bulb works too. If the bowl is light-colored, the drowned fleas are easily seen. This is an easy way to check room-by-room to find the infested room(s). Many people are surprised when they return to check the bowl in a couple of hours. While there is much anecdotal discussion of cedar oil, and some aggressive marketing of products, cedar oil is a repellent [1], not a killer, and is more useful as a preventative than a "cure". Its method of action is as a feeding-depressant, eventually starving the insect. That can take some time, however, and does not affect existing eggs, larvae, and pupae. See "Use profile" at http://www.epa.gov/oppsrrd1/REDs/fac...s/3150fact.pdf and footnote [1] below. It has been found to be safe for dogs, but potentially toxic to the more inefficient liver of the cat [2]. I've not yet met or heard-of a Vet that recommended cedar oil products for cats. I see a lot of promotional material that says "prudent Vets recommend ....", or "Veterinarian-recommended", but I've not seen a "prudent Vet" named, or a Vet willing to go "on record" recommending _only_ a cedar oil product (if recommending one at all). I'm quite receptive to a discussion with one, if I could find one. http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...of-fleas-on-my Borax powder remains the safest and most effective treatment for carpets and floors, and many Vets sell such products, but they will caution you that it does not adddress the problem of fleas on the pet, as physical contact with the boric acid is required ot absorb the oils on the flea's body and cause them to deydrate. It also has less effect on eggs, larvae, and pupae. In short, the flea's life-cycle is complex and highly adapted to survival, and thus difficult to effectively attack at only one of its four stages. Good luck. Allan [1] A sampling of herbal and essential-oil product evaluations by the UK's Control of Substances Hazardous to Health approval-evaluations of some of these products is at http://www.hse.gov.uk/biocides/copr/...rovals0405.pdf Note that most are classified as 'repellants', or "for repellant use only". In most cases, the suffix "-cide" may not be used in labelling, as the product does not directly kill fleas (the UK is more strict about truth-in-advertising and labelling than the US is). [2] From http://www.messybeast.com/teatree.htm: "Cedar Oil, also marketed as a flea treatment, is also highly toxic to cats. It has been found to be toxic orally, when absorbed through the skin and an irritant if the fumes are inhaled (if the fumes are concentrated enough it may be absorbed through the lining of the lungs in toxic quantities). It is irresponsibly marketed by Cedarcide as safe for pets, but COSHH and toxicology data indicates it is toxic. Claims supporting Cedarcide are highly biased and were written for dog treatments (dogs have very different and more efficient liver function than cats). They are advertising claims, not scientific claims, and perpetuate the misconception tha natural means "safe". " -- One asks, many answer, all learn -- Plato, on the 'Forum --- True civility is when every one gives to every other one every right that they claim for themselves. "Ivy LittleVine" wrote in message ... On Jan 17, 6:51 pm, "Allan Smith" wrote: Ivy, What kind of worm? Tapeworm. A very very tiny tapeworm... as compared in size to what I found before I dewormed them on December 15th... where that segment was previously 3x's thicker. |
#13
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Tape Worms...
"Allan Smith" wrote in message ... There is only one way to get a tapeworm, and that is by ingesting a flea. Wrong again, Einstein! You're just chock full of erroneous information, aren't you Professor??? *Two* species of tapeworm infect cats. Taenia. taeniaeformis, and Dipylidium caninum. Taeniids are transmitted by eating rodents or rabbits and only Dipylidium are flea-vectored. Make a note of that. This is the second time I had to correct your bogus information in as many days. If you want to educate all us ignorant cat folk, at least make sure your information is correct. |
#14
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Tape Worms...
"Ivy LittleVine" wrote in message ... On Jan 17, 10:14 am, "Matthew" wrote: you realize that what they have are caused by fleas right not the litter box "Ivy LittleVine" wrote in message ... I am the somewhat inexperienced foster mother of multiple INDOOR felines living in a small space. I recently dewormed my crew less than a month ago for the first time and noticed this morning that They-y- y'r-r-r-e-e-e Ba-a-a-c-c-c-k-k-k !-!-! I went through my vet for the medication and successfully administered roundworm and tapeworm medication to them at home myself. At $10 a crack per cat... I cannot afford to do this on a continuous basis every month. Here's the problem... After giving them their medication... when is the best time (how many days do I wait?) before introducing their new litter boxes? and what type of solution do I need to clean their paws/claws with to help eliminate any possible re-infestations that can occur from them cleaning their paws?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I use cedarcide... You shouldn't use cedar oil products on or around cats- the aroma overwhelms their olfactory senses and its potentially toxic to their liver.. Cats are particularly sensitive to cedar aroma because of their huge (compared to humans) olfactory epithelium, which can have an area 10 times larger than ours. So an aroma that smells nice to you could be torturous for a cat. we don't have fleas. Two were avid mousers that lived outside until recently. The vet said eating mice/crickets etc. was probably the original cause. Your vet is correct. Two species of tapeworm infect cats. Taenia. taeniaeformis, and Dipylidium caninum. Taeniids are transmitted by eating rodents or rabbits and Dipylidium are flea-vectored. Only one (the same cat) is once again showing signs of the problem... but beings they all share the same litter boxes everyone has to receive medication. Cats cannot and do not acquire tapeworms by eating the segments or the tiny egg packets-- a cat must ingest fleas or raw meat from birds, rodents, fish or other mammals. These are called intermediate hosts and are essential to the life cycle of the tapeworm. One Droncit tablet each should solve your problem. Sometimes a second treatment is necessary about a week or two later. Phil |
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