Caring for an older cat questions.......

"Laura R." wrote in message
.. .
circa 17 Jan 2004 15:47:00 GMT, in rec.pets.cats.health+behav,


With older cats, an ounce of prevention is worth ten pounds of cure,
IMO.

HTH,

Laura


Great post, Laura. I just forwarded a copy to myself to keep for future
reference. Thanks!

MaryL

"Laura R." wrote in message
.. .
circa 17 Jan 2004 15:47:00 GMT, in rec.pets.cats.health+behav,


With older cats, an ounce of prevention is worth ten pounds of cure,
IMO.

HTH,

Laura


Great post, Laura. I just forwarded a copy to myself to keep for future
reference. Thanks!

MaryL

"Laura R." wrote in message
.. .
circa 17 Jan 2004 15:47:00 GMT, in rec.pets.cats.health+behav,


With older cats, an ounce of prevention is worth ten pounds of cure,
IMO.

HTH,

Laura


Great post, Laura. I just forwarded a copy to myself to keep for future
reference. Thanks!

MaryL

(MJohns7861) wrote in message ...
As my indoor cat Willi approaches his 10th birthday in April am wondering if
there are something I need to think about regarding his health. I generally
take him in once a year for his vet visit and shots. Am debating if I should
now move this to every 6 months. Any thoughts? I have read in someplaces there
is a value to perhaps getting him x-rayed periodically to identify any
possiblity of cancer early. Also, he has never had his teeth cleaned and wonder
if I need to be thinking about any dental issues he may have in his senior
years. Overall, Willi has a good health history and had his PC surgery when he
was 6 for a blockage and has never been outside the house. However, he is in
the 16 lb range and really needs to lose some weight. He is currently eating a
ProPlan weight management dry food.

Any feedback or thoughts are appeciated.

Your vet should be able to answer these questions. There are a lot of
specialist vets now, and the cat-only vet I use specializes in
geriatric care (although they treat cats of all ages). My advice is
to make sure you feel comfortable with the level of knowledge that
your vet has with regard to caring for older cats and follow his/her
advice.


Magnus

(MJohns7861) wrote in message ...
As my indoor cat Willi approaches his 10th birthday in April am wondering if
there are something I need to think about regarding his health. I generally
take him in once a year for his vet visit and shots. Am debating if I should
now move this to every 6 months. Any thoughts? I have read in someplaces there
is a value to perhaps getting him x-rayed periodically to identify any
possiblity of cancer early. Also, he has never had his teeth cleaned and wonder
if I need to be thinking about any dental issues he may have in his senior
years. Overall, Willi has a good health history and had his PC surgery when he
was 6 for a blockage and has never been outside the house. However, he is in
the 16 lb range and really needs to lose some weight. He is currently eating a
ProPlan weight management dry food.

Any feedback or thoughts are appeciated.

Your vet should be able to answer these questions. There are a lot of
specialist vets now, and the cat-only vet I use specializes in
geriatric care (although they treat cats of all ages). My advice is
to make sure you feel comfortable with the level of knowledge that
your vet has with regard to caring for older cats and follow his/her
advice.


Magnus

(MJohns7861) wrote in message ...
As my indoor cat Willi approaches his 10th birthday in April am wondering if
there are something I need to think about regarding his health. I generally
take him in once a year for his vet visit and shots. Am debating if I should
now move this to every 6 months. Any thoughts? I have read in someplaces there
is a value to perhaps getting him x-rayed periodically to identify any
possiblity of cancer early. Also, he has never had his teeth cleaned and wonder
if I need to be thinking about any dental issues he may have in his senior
years. Overall, Willi has a good health history and had his PC surgery when he
was 6 for a blockage and has never been outside the house. However, he is in
the 16 lb range and really needs to lose some weight. He is currently eating a
ProPlan weight management dry food.

Any feedback or thoughts are appeciated.

Your vet should be able to answer these questions. There are a lot of
specialist vets now, and the cat-only vet I use specializes in
geriatric care (although they treat cats of all ages). My advice is
to make sure you feel comfortable with the level of knowledge that
your vet has with regard to caring for older cats and follow his/her
advice.


Magnus

Laura R. wrote:

circa 17 Jan 2004 15:47:00 GMT, in rec.pets.cats.health+behav,
MJohns7861 ) said,

As my indoor cat Willi approaches his 10th birthday in April am wondering if
there are something I need to think about regarding his health. I generally
take him in once a year for his vet visit and shots. Am debating if I should
now move this to every 6 months. Any thoughts? I have read in someplaces there
is a value to perhaps getting him x-rayed periodically to identify any
possiblity of cancer early. Also, he has never had his teeth cleaned and wonder
if I need to be thinking about any dental issues he may have in his senior
years. Overall, Willi has a good health history and had his PC surgery when he
was 6 for a blockage and has never been outside the house. However, he is in
the 16 lb range and really needs to lose some weight. He is currently eating a
ProPlan weight management dry food.

Any feedback or thoughts are appeciated.

Magnus


I always start my cats on an annual geriatric workup when they are
around nine or ten years old. Any veterinarian will know what you
mean by this if you request it. They'll do a full blood panel and
some geriatric-specific examinations and tests, watching for things
like signs of hyperthyroidism, CRF, raised calcium levels (may
indicate cancer, but not necessarily), liver issues, etc. If the labs
and exams all look good, then an annual exam is fine. If the
bloodwork or exams show any signs for concern, then your vet may
recommend more frequent checkups, but a healthy older cat is usually
fine with annual exams.

I would highly recommend an annual dental, as well. Dental health is
crucial in older cats, as it reduces the amount of plaque and
bacteria that get into the cat's system, as well as helping to ensure
that the cat doesn't stop eating because of mouth pain. If your cat
has a tooth that is cracked or otherwise compromised, it's better to
have the tooth removed while he's still younger than to wait for
years until it gets to the point where it has to come out and the cat
is less able to tolerate the anesthesia. Also, a "bad" tooth can
contribute to the development of heart disease (because of the
plaque, I kid you not), and renal failure or other systemic disease
because of the bacteria.

It's good that you're feeding him a weight-manangement food, and you
should probably continue to do so, as *gradual* weight reduction is a
good idea if the cat is chubby. Also, if your cat is a dry-food-only
eater, you may want to try to switch to at least a primarily wet-food
diet, as the higher moisture content can help keep the cat better
hydrated, which in turn can help with any age-related loss of kidney
function. It's also easier to mix supplements and medications into
wet food than dry.

You may also want to think about chondroitin/shark cartilage
supplements as older cats can become arthritic.

As far as things to watch for in older cats, keep an eye out for
increased thirst and larger-volume urination, as these can indicate
renal insufficiency. Watch for constipation, both because it can
indicate renal issues and things like megacolon. If your cat is prone
to constipation, add plain canned pumpkin to his food, or baby food
prunes, or even unflavored metamucil. If you add metamucil, add water
to the wet food and mix it in there, as metamucil will require
increased hydration. You can also sprinkle it on dry food (I do both
with my cats), but again, make sure you have lots of water sources
available for the reason listed previously. In fact, one of the
things I do as my cats age is to distribute more water bowls around
the house. Cats do not necessarily like their water to be near their
food (in fact, mine won't drink water near their food- they like it
to be near the places where they sleep so that they can drink right
before and right after napping). Put water bowls in your cat's
favorite "traffic" areas (by scratching post, cat trees, your bed,
whatever).

Watch your cat for signs of pain or stiffness. If he starts to fail
in jumping up on things that used to be easy for him, he may be
arthritic or just plain old and stiff. If the fur on his spine is
standing up (not like when a cat is freaked out and hissing, but just
raised a bit), this may indicate that he is in pain and should prompt
a vet visit.

You may also want to start putting your cat's food on a plate instead
of in a bowl. Cats cannot see what is right in front of their mouths-
they actually use those little whiskers on the front of their mouths
to "feel" their food. Some cats do not like to eat from bowls because
their whiskers graze the sides of the bowl and make it harder for
them to figure out where the food is. This happens more as they get
older, in my experience. Putting food on a plate for my oldest cat
helped immensely both in getting him to eat and in getting him to
quit dropping the food on the floor to eat it. Additionally, if you
can raise the cat's food so that he doesn't have to crouch down to
eat it, do so. It helps prevent stomach acid backup into the
esophagus, much like not lying down right after eating a hearty meal
helps people avoid heartburn.

I would recommend stocking up on the following items, as well:

- needleless syringes and/or droppers; these are great for
administering liquid medications, supplements, etc.

- a mortar and pestle for grinding up supplements and medications
that come in tablet form that isn't easy to administer to the cat.
For example, Jacob gets 1/4 of a Pepcid A/C per day to reduce the
extra stomach acid that builds up as a result of his CRF. I don't
know if you've ever seen one of these tablets, but they're about 2 mm
in diameter and difficult to accurately cut. Jacob is also difficult
to pill. As a result, I finally resorted to grinding up one pill per
40ml of water (measured with the syringes, and ground with the mortar
and pestle). I then dissolve the Pepcid in the water and squirt 10ml
onto Jacob's wet food each day. Obviously, if your cat doesn't have
CRF, this isn't something you should adopt as a practice, but there
are lots of medications and supplements that are easier to administer
if you dissolve them in water and mix them into the cat's food, or if
you grind them into a powder and sprinkle the food.

- a pill cutter, for reasons outlined already

- a couple of those parmesan cheese shaker jars. They're great for
sprinkling powdered supplements onto the cat's food (such as the
metamucil and the chondroitin- The chondroitin I use comes in pill
form, and I powder it in a food processor, then sprinkle it onto the
cats' food)

- a water filter or distilled water. Give your kitty
filtered/distilled water instead of tap water. It's easier on his
system.

- a tube of Felovite if your veterinarian thinks it's a good idea.
You may not need to give it regularly, but if your cat gets sick, or
"off his feed", a vitamin supplement may be helpful. When my now-
deceased Alex was battling lymphoma, in the early stages of his
chemo, the lymphoma was still so strong in his system that his
appetite was nonexistent. Felovite actually helped stimulate his
appetite as it made him feel better when he was basically feeling
"hungover". Cats with renal problems can also become vitamin-
depleted. Again, you may not need to give this as a routine, but it's
good to have around "just in case".

- a cat "toothbrush", which is really a rubberized thing that slips
over your finger and has soft little bristles on it. You can
gradually acclimate your cat to it, and it will help with his dental
health between cleanings

- cat enzymatic toothpaste. Never use human toothpaste for cats.

- a tube or two of hairball remedy.

- a few jars of onion-free chicken or turkey baby food. If your cat
is feeling punky and not eating well, this is sometimes a good
temporary supplement/alternative. Make sure that there are no onions
in the ingredient list, as onions are toxic to cats.

- a bottle of plain mineral oil- no scent. If your cat has waxy ears
(Jacob does, though there's neither yeast nor mites in 'em- they're
just waxy), putting a drop or two in his ears and rubbing the bases
of the ears is a good way to help loosen any gunk therein. Never put
cotton swabs in your cat's ears. If you do use the mineral oil for
your cat's ears, wad up a kleenex and hold it around the opening your
cat's ears while you do the drip-and-rub thing. I actually use the
kleenex to do the rubbing. The mineral oil may also come in handy as
a supplement for constipation or hairballs, although you'll want to
check with your veterinarian as to whether it's indicated.

- soft pads for your cat to sleep on. Older kitties' joints are
stiffer and more tender, so if your cat likes to sleep in a patch of
sunlight on the floor or whatever, putting a soft pad there for him
to sleep on is a small and simple kindness.

- at some point, you may even want to put a little stepstool or
platform near your bed if you have a high bed and the cat sleeps with
you. My Jacob (sixteen years old) has a hard time jumping up on my
bed these days, and giving him an intermediate jumping platform makes
it easier for him.

None of these things are vital to rush out and get immediately, but
having them ready in your house can be a great comfort for you, and
save you a lot of time and trouble if and when you need them. Always
check with your vet before giving your cat supplements, medications,
etc. Just because you can doesn't necessarily mean you should. :-)

Also, as your cat ages, you may want to reduce the number of
vaccinations he gets. My cats now only get rabies vaccinations, and
once they develop long-term health conditions, I stop the vaccines
altogether. I stopped Alex's vaccinations when he developed lymphoma.
I have stopped Jacob's vaccinations as a result of his CRF (chronic
renal failure) and because at his age, he's basically got all the
immunity he's going to get. Indoor-only cats in a closed household
(no exposure to new cats) do not need feline leukemia vaccinations.
Ditto for FIV.

Talk to your veterinarian about which vaccinations your cat really
needs. As cats age, they tolerate the side effects of vaccinations
(that two- or three-day lethargy and neuralgia that often occurs)
less. Make sure that your vet uses adjuvant-free vaccines (Merial
Purevax, for example). Adjuvants are strongly believed to be
connected to vaccination-site sarcomas. Make sure your vet varies
injection sites for the vaccines. Some vaccines should be delivered
in the shoulder or haunch so that if a vaccination-site sarcoma
should result, the affected limb can be amputated. Unfortunately,
this is often the most viable option in the case of a vaccination-
site sarcoma. Varying the location each year where the vaccine is
administered may also help reduce the likelihood of a sarcoma. Again,
however, reducing the number of vaccines you give to your cat is the
best way to minimize risk. There are vaccines that are listed as
"core" vaccines, and vaccines that are considered situational or
optional. Know which are which and adjust accordingly. Also, annual
vaccine is probably *not* required. Cornell did a twenty- or thirty-
year study and found that cats generally maintain antibodies for
three years. A good veterinarian will offer you the option of
titering for antibodies before administering vaccines. That way, if
the cat's antibodies are still sufficient, you can skip the vaccine
altogether.

Develop a regular grooming schedule and watch for things like
increased dandruff or hair loss. These can be signs of illness
(dandruff, for example, is common in cats with renal failure).

Please don't think that you need to assume that your cat is
inherently going to "get sick" because of all the stuff I've typed.
Geriatric cats can be very, very healthy. You just need to be
prepared for age-related conditions. I have three cats, who are 9.5,
nearly 11 and nearly 16 in age. The two younger ones are in perfect
health, and the oldest is in great shape aside from his renal issues.
We found his CRF very early (over two years ago) because I had a
geriatric blood workup and urine specific gravity testing performed
due to his age. As a result, the course of his disease has been
slowed considerably, and he has never had a "crash", which is
essentially a sudden, severe and serious downturn in health as a
result of kidney functioning diminishing to the point that the cat
becomes filled with toxins.

Last, as a cat ages, he may become more vocal and more prone to
"night prowling". As a cat's hearing and sight diminish, he may
become more vocal both as a locator mechanism and because he
literally can't hear himself "talk" as easily. Night prowling
(wandering around aimlessly, vocalizing a lot) may indicate increased
thyroid activity (hyperthyroidism), which will also manifest itself
in weight loss, dryer fur and skin, and muscle wasting.

Basically, you've had your cat for long enough to know what his
normal behaviors are, and the best thing you can do is to be alert to
changes in those behaviors.

With older cats, an ounce of prevention is worth ten pounds of cure,
IMO.

HTH,

Laura

Thank you for this, go treat yourself to a hot fudge sundae. Well done!
I saved a copy too.

Karen

Laura R. wrote:

circa 17 Jan 2004 15:47:00 GMT, in rec.pets.cats.health+behav,
MJohns7861 ) said,

As my indoor cat Willi approaches his 10th birthday in April am wondering if
there are something I need to think about regarding his health. I generally
take him in once a year for his vet visit and shots. Am debating if I should
now move this to every 6 months. Any thoughts? I have read in someplaces there
is a value to perhaps getting him x-rayed periodically to identify any
possiblity of cancer early. Also, he has never had his teeth cleaned and wonder
if I need to be thinking about any dental issues he may have in his senior
years. Overall, Willi has a good health history and had his PC surgery when he
was 6 for a blockage and has never been outside the house. However, he is in
the 16 lb range and really needs to lose some weight. He is currently eating a
ProPlan weight management dry food.

Any feedback or thoughts are appeciated.

Magnus


I always start my cats on an annual geriatric workup when they are
around nine or ten years old. Any veterinarian will know what you
mean by this if you request it. They'll do a full blood panel and
some geriatric-specific examinations and tests, watching for things
like signs of hyperthyroidism, CRF, raised calcium levels (may
indicate cancer, but not necessarily), liver issues, etc. If the labs
and exams all look good, then an annual exam is fine. If the
bloodwork or exams show any signs for concern, then your vet may
recommend more frequent checkups, but a healthy older cat is usually
fine with annual exams.

I would highly recommend an annual dental, as well. Dental health is
crucial in older cats, as it reduces the amount of plaque and
bacteria that get into the cat's system, as well as helping to ensure
that the cat doesn't stop eating because of mouth pain. If your cat
has a tooth that is cracked or otherwise compromised, it's better to
have the tooth removed while he's still younger than to wait for
years until it gets to the point where it has to come out and the cat
is less able to tolerate the anesthesia. Also, a "bad" tooth can
contribute to the development of heart disease (because of the
plaque, I kid you not), and renal failure or other systemic disease
because of the bacteria.

It's good that you're feeding him a weight-manangement food, and you
should probably continue to do so, as *gradual* weight reduction is a
good idea if the cat is chubby. Also, if your cat is a dry-food-only
eater, you may want to try to switch to at least a primarily wet-food
diet, as the higher moisture content can help keep the cat better
hydrated, which in turn can help with any age-related loss of kidney
function. It's also easier to mix supplements and medications into
wet food than dry.

You may also want to think about chondroitin/shark cartilage
supplements as older cats can become arthritic.

As far as things to watch for in older cats, keep an eye out for
increased thirst and larger-volume urination, as these can indicate
renal insufficiency. Watch for constipation, both because it can
indicate renal issues and things like megacolon. If your cat is prone
to constipation, add plain canned pumpkin to his food, or baby food
prunes, or even unflavored metamucil. If you add metamucil, add water
to the wet food and mix it in there, as metamucil will require
increased hydration. You can also sprinkle it on dry food (I do both
with my cats), but again, make sure you have lots of water sources
available for the reason listed previously. In fact, one of the
things I do as my cats age is to distribute more water bowls around
the house. Cats do not necessarily like their water to be near their
food (in fact, mine won't drink water near their food- they like it
to be near the places where they sleep so that they can drink right
before and right after napping). Put water bowls in your cat's
favorite "traffic" areas (by scratching post, cat trees, your bed,
whatever).

Watch your cat for signs of pain or stiffness. If he starts to fail
in jumping up on things that used to be easy for him, he may be
arthritic or just plain old and stiff. If the fur on his spine is
standing up (not like when a cat is freaked out and hissing, but just
raised a bit), this may indicate that he is in pain and should prompt
a vet visit.

You may also want to start putting your cat's food on a plate instead
of in a bowl. Cats cannot see what is right in front of their mouths-
they actually use those little whiskers on the front of their mouths
to "feel" their food. Some cats do not like to eat from bowls because
their whiskers graze the sides of the bowl and make it harder for
them to figure out where the food is. This happens more as they get
older, in my experience. Putting food on a plate for my oldest cat
helped immensely both in getting him to eat and in getting him to
quit dropping the food on the floor to eat it. Additionally, if you
can raise the cat's food so that he doesn't have to crouch down to
eat it, do so. It helps prevent stomach acid backup into the
esophagus, much like not lying down right after eating a hearty meal
helps people avoid heartburn.

I would recommend stocking up on the following items, as well:

- needleless syringes and/or droppers; these are great for
administering liquid medications, supplements, etc.

- a mortar and pestle for grinding up supplements and medications
that come in tablet form that isn't easy to administer to the cat.
For example, Jacob gets 1/4 of a Pepcid A/C per day to reduce the
extra stomach acid that builds up as a result of his CRF. I don't
know if you've ever seen one of these tablets, but they're about 2 mm
in diameter and difficult to accurately cut. Jacob is also difficult
to pill. As a result, I finally resorted to grinding up one pill per
40ml of water (measured with the syringes, and ground with the mortar
and pestle). I then dissolve the Pepcid in the water and squirt 10ml
onto Jacob's wet food each day. Obviously, if your cat doesn't have
CRF, this isn't something you should adopt as a practice, but there
are lots of medications and supplements that are easier to administer
if you dissolve them in water and mix them into the cat's food, or if
you grind them into a powder and sprinkle the food.

- a pill cutter, for reasons outlined already

- a couple of those parmesan cheese shaker jars. They're great for
sprinkling powdered supplements onto the cat's food (such as the
metamucil and the chondroitin- The chondroitin I use comes in pill
form, and I powder it in a food processor, then sprinkle it onto the
cats' food)

- a water filter or distilled water. Give your kitty
filtered/distilled water instead of tap water. It's easier on his
system.

- a tube of Felovite if your veterinarian thinks it's a good idea.
You may not need to give it regularly, but if your cat gets sick, or
"off his feed", a vitamin supplement may be helpful. When my now-
deceased Alex was battling lymphoma, in the early stages of his
chemo, the lymphoma was still so strong in his system that his
appetite was nonexistent. Felovite actually helped stimulate his
appetite as it made him feel better when he was basically feeling
"hungover". Cats with renal problems can also become vitamin-
depleted. Again, you may not need to give this as a routine, but it's
good to have around "just in case".

- a cat "toothbrush", which is really a rubberized thing that slips
over your finger and has soft little bristles on it. You can
gradually acclimate your cat to it, and it will help with his dental
health between cleanings

- cat enzymatic toothpaste. Never use human toothpaste for cats.

- a tube or two of hairball remedy.

- a few jars of onion-free chicken or turkey baby food. If your cat
is feeling punky and not eating well, this is sometimes a good
temporary supplement/alternative. Make sure that there are no onions
in the ingredient list, as onions are toxic to cats.

- a bottle of plain mineral oil- no scent. If your cat has waxy ears
(Jacob does, though there's neither yeast nor mites in 'em- they're
just waxy), putting a drop or two in his ears and rubbing the bases
of the ears is a good way to help loosen any gunk therein. Never put
cotton swabs in your cat's ears. If you do use the mineral oil for
your cat's ears, wad up a kleenex and hold it around the opening your
cat's ears while you do the drip-and-rub thing. I actually use the
kleenex to do the rubbing. The mineral oil may also come in handy as
a supplement for constipation or hairballs, although you'll want to
check with your veterinarian as to whether it's indicated.

- soft pads for your cat to sleep on. Older kitties' joints are
stiffer and more tender, so if your cat likes to sleep in a patch of
sunlight on the floor or whatever, putting a soft pad there for him
to sleep on is a small and simple kindness.

- at some point, you may even want to put a little stepstool or
platform near your bed if you have a high bed and the cat sleeps with
you. My Jacob (sixteen years old) has a hard time jumping up on my
bed these days, and giving him an intermediate jumping platform makes
it easier for him.

None of these things are vital to rush out and get immediately, but
having them ready in your house can be a great comfort for you, and
save you a lot of time and trouble if and when you need them. Always
check with your vet before giving your cat supplements, medications,
etc. Just because you can doesn't necessarily mean you should. :-)

Also, as your cat ages, you may want to reduce the number of
vaccinations he gets. My cats now only get rabies vaccinations, and
once they develop long-term health conditions, I stop the vaccines
altogether. I stopped Alex's vaccinations when he developed lymphoma.
I have stopped Jacob's vaccinations as a result of his CRF (chronic
renal failure) and because at his age, he's basically got all the
immunity he's going to get. Indoor-only cats in a closed household
(no exposure to new cats) do not need feline leukemia vaccinations.
Ditto for FIV.

Talk to your veterinarian about which vaccinations your cat really
needs. As cats age, they tolerate the side effects of vaccinations
(that two- or three-day lethargy and neuralgia that often occurs)
less. Make sure that your vet uses adjuvant-free vaccines (Merial
Purevax, for example). Adjuvants are strongly believed to be
connected to vaccination-site sarcomas. Make sure your vet varies
injection sites for the vaccines. Some vaccines should be delivered
in the shoulder or haunch so that if a vaccination-site sarcoma
should result, the affected limb can be amputated. Unfortunately,
this is often the most viable option in the case of a vaccination-
site sarcoma. Varying the location each year where the vaccine is
administered may also help reduce the likelihood of a sarcoma. Again,
however, reducing the number of vaccines you give to your cat is the
best way to minimize risk. There are vaccines that are listed as
"core" vaccines, and vaccines that are considered situational or
optional. Know which are which and adjust accordingly. Also, annual
vaccine is probably *not* required. Cornell did a twenty- or thirty-
year study and found that cats generally maintain antibodies for
three years. A good veterinarian will offer you the option of
titering for antibodies before administering vaccines. That way, if
the cat's antibodies are still sufficient, you can skip the vaccine
altogether.

Develop a regular grooming schedule and watch for things like
increased dandruff or hair loss. These can be signs of illness
(dandruff, for example, is common in cats with renal failure).

Please don't think that you need to assume that your cat is
inherently going to "get sick" because of all the stuff I've typed.
Geriatric cats can be very, very healthy. You just need to be
prepared for age-related conditions. I have three cats, who are 9.5,
nearly 11 and nearly 16 in age. The two younger ones are in perfect
health, and the oldest is in great shape aside from his renal issues.
We found his CRF very early (over two years ago) because I had a
geriatric blood workup and urine specific gravity testing performed
due to his age. As a result, the course of his disease has been
slowed considerably, and he has never had a "crash", which is
essentially a sudden, severe and serious downturn in health as a
result of kidney functioning diminishing to the point that the cat
becomes filled with toxins.

Last, as a cat ages, he may become more vocal and more prone to
"night prowling". As a cat's hearing and sight diminish, he may
become more vocal both as a locator mechanism and because he
literally can't hear himself "talk" as easily. Night prowling
(wandering around aimlessly, vocalizing a lot) may indicate increased
thyroid activity (hyperthyroidism), which will also manifest itself
in weight loss, dryer fur and skin, and muscle wasting.

Basically, you've had your cat for long enough to know what his
normal behaviors are, and the best thing you can do is to be alert to
changes in those behaviors.

With older cats, an ounce of prevention is worth ten pounds of cure,
IMO.

HTH,

Laura

Thank you for this, go treat yourself to a hot fudge sundae. Well done!
I saved a copy too.

Karen

Laura R. wrote:

circa 17 Jan 2004 15:47:00 GMT, in rec.pets.cats.health+behav,
MJohns7861 ) said,

As my indoor cat Willi approaches his 10th birthday in April am wondering if
there are something I need to think about regarding his health. I generally
take him in once a year for his vet visit and shots. Am debating if I should
now move this to every 6 months. Any thoughts? I have read in someplaces there
is a value to perhaps getting him x-rayed periodically to identify any
possiblity of cancer early. Also, he has never had his teeth cleaned and wonder
if I need to be thinking about any dental issues he may have in his senior
years. Overall, Willi has a good health history and had his PC surgery when he
was 6 for a blockage and has never been outside the house. However, he is in
the 16 lb range and really needs to lose some weight. He is currently eating a
ProPlan weight management dry food.

Any feedback or thoughts are appeciated.

Magnus


I always start my cats on an annual geriatric workup when they are
around nine or ten years old. Any veterinarian will know what you
mean by this if you request it. They'll do a full blood panel and
some geriatric-specific examinations and tests, watching for things
like signs of hyperthyroidism, CRF, raised calcium levels (may
indicate cancer, but not necessarily), liver issues, etc. If the labs
and exams all look good, then an annual exam is fine. If the
bloodwork or exams show any signs for concern, then your vet may
recommend more frequent checkups, but a healthy older cat is usually
fine with annual exams.

I would highly recommend an annual dental, as well. Dental health is
crucial in older cats, as it reduces the amount of plaque and
bacteria that get into the cat's system, as well as helping to ensure
that the cat doesn't stop eating because of mouth pain. If your cat
has a tooth that is cracked or otherwise compromised, it's better to
have the tooth removed while he's still younger than to wait for
years until it gets to the point where it has to come out and the cat
is less able to tolerate the anesthesia. Also, a "bad" tooth can
contribute to the development of heart disease (because of the
plaque, I kid you not), and renal failure or other systemic disease
because of the bacteria.

It's good that you're feeding him a weight-manangement food, and you
should probably continue to do so, as *gradual* weight reduction is a
good idea if the cat is chubby. Also, if your cat is a dry-food-only
eater, you may want to try to switch to at least a primarily wet-food
diet, as the higher moisture content can help keep the cat better
hydrated, which in turn can help with any age-related loss of kidney
function. It's also easier to mix supplements and medications into
wet food than dry.

You may also want to think about chondroitin/shark cartilage
supplements as older cats can become arthritic.

As far as things to watch for in older cats, keep an eye out for
increased thirst and larger-volume urination, as these can indicate
renal insufficiency. Watch for constipation, both because it can
indicate renal issues and things like megacolon. If your cat is prone
to constipation, add plain canned pumpkin to his food, or baby food
prunes, or even unflavored metamucil. If you add metamucil, add water
to the wet food and mix it in there, as metamucil will require
increased hydration. You can also sprinkle it on dry food (I do both
with my cats), but again, make sure you have lots of water sources
available for the reason listed previously. In fact, one of the
things I do as my cats age is to distribute more water bowls around
the house. Cats do not necessarily like their water to be near their
food (in fact, mine won't drink water near their food- they like it
to be near the places where they sleep so that they can drink right
before and right after napping). Put water bowls in your cat's
favorite "traffic" areas (by scratching post, cat trees, your bed,
whatever).

Watch your cat for signs of pain or stiffness. If he starts to fail
in jumping up on things that used to be easy for him, he may be
arthritic or just plain old and stiff. If the fur on his spine is
standing up (not like when a cat is freaked out and hissing, but just
raised a bit), this may indicate that he is in pain and should prompt
a vet visit.

You may also want to start putting your cat's food on a plate instead
of in a bowl. Cats cannot see what is right in front of their mouths-
they actually use those little whiskers on the front of their mouths
to "feel" their food. Some cats do not like to eat from bowls because
their whiskers graze the sides of the bowl and make it harder for
them to figure out where the food is. This happens more as they get
older, in my experience. Putting food on a plate for my oldest cat
helped immensely both in getting him to eat and in getting him to
quit dropping the food on the floor to eat it. Additionally, if you
can raise the cat's food so that he doesn't have to crouch down to
eat it, do so. It helps prevent stomach acid backup into the
esophagus, much like not lying down right after eating a hearty meal
helps people avoid heartburn.

I would recommend stocking up on the following items, as well:

- needleless syringes and/or droppers; these are great for
administering liquid medications, supplements, etc.

- a mortar and pestle for grinding up supplements and medications
that come in tablet form that isn't easy to administer to the cat.
For example, Jacob gets 1/4 of a Pepcid A/C per day to reduce the
extra stomach acid that builds up as a result of his CRF. I don't
know if you've ever seen one of these tablets, but they're about 2 mm
in diameter and difficult to accurately cut. Jacob is also difficult
to pill. As a result, I finally resorted to grinding up one pill per
40ml of water (measured with the syringes, and ground with the mortar
and pestle). I then dissolve the Pepcid in the water and squirt 10ml
onto Jacob's wet food each day. Obviously, if your cat doesn't have
CRF, this isn't something you should adopt as a practice, but there
are lots of medications and supplements that are easier to administer
if you dissolve them in water and mix them into the cat's food, or if
you grind them into a powder and sprinkle the food.

- a pill cutter, for reasons outlined already

- a couple of those parmesan cheese shaker jars. They're great for
sprinkling powdered supplements onto the cat's food (such as the
metamucil and the chondroitin- The chondroitin I use comes in pill
form, and I powder it in a food processor, then sprinkle it onto the
cats' food)

- a water filter or distilled water. Give your kitty
filtered/distilled water instead of tap water. It's easier on his
system.

- a tube of Felovite if your veterinarian thinks it's a good idea.
You may not need to give it regularly, but if your cat gets sick, or
"off his feed", a vitamin supplement may be helpful. When my now-
deceased Alex was battling lymphoma, in the early stages of his
chemo, the lymphoma was still so strong in his system that his
appetite was nonexistent. Felovite actually helped stimulate his
appetite as it made him feel better when he was basically feeling
"hungover". Cats with renal problems can also become vitamin-
depleted. Again, you may not need to give this as a routine, but it's
good to have around "just in case".

- a cat "toothbrush", which is really a rubberized thing that slips
over your finger and has soft little bristles on it. You can
gradually acclimate your cat to it, and it will help with his dental
health between cleanings

- cat enzymatic toothpaste. Never use human toothpaste for cats.

- a tube or two of hairball remedy.

- a few jars of onion-free chicken or turkey baby food. If your cat
is feeling punky and not eating well, this is sometimes a good
temporary supplement/alternative. Make sure that there are no onions
in the ingredient list, as onions are toxic to cats.

- a bottle of plain mineral oil- no scent. If your cat has waxy ears
(Jacob does, though there's neither yeast nor mites in 'em- they're
just waxy), putting a drop or two in his ears and rubbing the bases
of the ears is a good way to help loosen any gunk therein. Never put
cotton swabs in your cat's ears. If you do use the mineral oil for
your cat's ears, wad up a kleenex and hold it around the opening your
cat's ears while you do the drip-and-rub thing. I actually use the
kleenex to do the rubbing. The mineral oil may also come in handy as
a supplement for constipation or hairballs, although you'll want to
check with your veterinarian as to whether it's indicated.

- soft pads for your cat to sleep on. Older kitties' joints are
stiffer and more tender, so if your cat likes to sleep in a patch of
sunlight on the floor or whatever, putting a soft pad there for him
to sleep on is a small and simple kindness.

- at some point, you may even want to put a little stepstool or
platform near your bed if you have a high bed and the cat sleeps with
you. My Jacob (sixteen years old) has a hard time jumping up on my
bed these days, and giving him an intermediate jumping platform makes
it easier for him.

None of these things are vital to rush out and get immediately, but
having them ready in your house can be a great comfort for you, and
save you a lot of time and trouble if and when you need them. Always
check with your vet before giving your cat supplements, medications,
etc. Just because you can doesn't necessarily mean you should. :-)

Also, as your cat ages, you may want to reduce the number of
vaccinations he gets. My cats now only get rabies vaccinations, and
once they develop long-term health conditions, I stop the vaccines
altogether. I stopped Alex's vaccinations when he developed lymphoma.
I have stopped Jacob's vaccinations as a result of his CRF (chronic
renal failure) and because at his age, he's basically got all the
immunity he's going to get. Indoor-only cats in a closed household
(no exposure to new cats) do not need feline leukemia vaccinations.
Ditto for FIV.

Talk to your veterinarian about which vaccinations your cat really
needs. As cats age, they tolerate the side effects of vaccinations
(that two- or three-day lethargy and neuralgia that often occurs)
less. Make sure that your vet uses adjuvant-free vaccines (Merial
Purevax, for example). Adjuvants are strongly believed to be
connected to vaccination-site sarcomas. Make sure your vet varies
injection sites for the vaccines. Some vaccines should be delivered
in the shoulder or haunch so that if a vaccination-site sarcoma
should result, the affected limb can be amputated. Unfortunately,
this is often the most viable option in the case of a vaccination-
site sarcoma. Varying the location each year where the vaccine is
administered may also help reduce the likelihood of a sarcoma. Again,
however, reducing the number of vaccines you give to your cat is the
best way to minimize risk. There are vaccines that are listed as
"core" vaccines, and vaccines that are considered situational or
optional. Know which are which and adjust accordingly. Also, annual
vaccine is probably *not* required. Cornell did a twenty- or thirty-
year study and found that cats generally maintain antibodies for
three years. A good veterinarian will offer you the option of
titering for antibodies before administering vaccines. That way, if
the cat's antibodies are still sufficient, you can skip the vaccine
altogether.

Develop a regular grooming schedule and watch for things like
increased dandruff or hair loss. These can be signs of illness
(dandruff, for example, is common in cats with renal failure).

Please don't think that you need to assume that your cat is
inherently going to "get sick" because of all the stuff I've typed.
Geriatric cats can be very, very healthy. You just need to be
prepared for age-related conditions. I have three cats, who are 9.5,
nearly 11 and nearly 16 in age. The two younger ones are in perfect
health, and the oldest is in great shape aside from his renal issues.
We found his CRF very early (over two years ago) because I had a
geriatric blood workup and urine specific gravity testing performed
due to his age. As a result, the course of his disease has been
slowed considerably, and he has never had a "crash", which is
essentially a sudden, severe and serious downturn in health as a
result of kidney functioning diminishing to the point that the cat
becomes filled with toxins.

Last, as a cat ages, he may become more vocal and more prone to
"night prowling". As a cat's hearing and sight diminish, he may
become more vocal both as a locator mechanism and because he
literally can't hear himself "talk" as easily. Night prowling
(wandering around aimlessly, vocalizing a lot) may indicate increased
thyroid activity (hyperthyroidism), which will also manifest itself
in weight loss, dryer fur and skin, and muscle wasting.

Basically, you've had your cat for long enough to know what his
normal behaviors are, and the best thing you can do is to be alert to
changes in those behaviors.

With older cats, an ounce of prevention is worth ten pounds of cure,
IMO.

HTH,

Laura

Thank you for this, go treat yourself to a hot fudge sundae. Well done!
I saved a copy too.

Karen

"MaryL" -OUT-THE-LITTER wrote in message
...

"Laura R." wrote in message
.. .
circa 17 Jan 2004 15:47:00 GMT, in rec.pets.cats.health+behav,


With older cats, an ounce of prevention is worth ten pounds of cure,
IMO.

HTH,

Laura


Great post, Laura. I just forwarded a copy to myself to keep for future
reference. Thanks!

I forwarded a copy to a friend who was expressing concern to me the other
day about her cat, who's now 12.

Cathy

--
"Staccato signals of constant information..."
("The Boy in the Bubble") Paul Simon