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#552
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In article ,
enlightened us with... In article , enlightened us with... If toes are all the same, why aren't dogs routinely declawed? Dogs, cats, and humans all have bones in their toes. Sorry if that's news to you. And all bones are the same. Right. You're just trying every tactic in the book to get out of your little corner, aren't you? Actually, most bones ARE the same, at least in the composition. The arrangement with joints, size, thickness and such may be different, but that has nothing to do with the fact that declawing is the amputation of the last joint on the toe, period. No amount of twisting things around will change that. Because they don't use their claws the same way cats do. You mean they don't scratch? No, I mean they don't use their claws the same as cats do. Cats scratch much differently than dogs, or hadn't you noticed? What's that got to do with why dogs aren't routinely declawed? Cats inconvenience owners more. You have yet to bother to answer that yourself, though, so I'd say you're just pulling things out of your nether regions again. You claimed to know the "real" reason, yet have posted nothing. Of course they do. They can cause more damage with their claws than a cat. They scratch the furniture when they make a "bed", they dig holes in yards, they scratch people just by jumping on them. Um, a trained dog does none of these things. A trained cat must still scratch something. If training was the answer to declawing, cats wouldn't get declawed either. Yeah, okay. *sigh* Training IS the answer to declawing. There are many reasons why people want their dogs declawed. If vets did everything their clients asked, there would be declawed dogs running around. There's a reason that surgery isn't done. What reason might that be? You have yet to answer this. Making stuff up again? Declawing a cat does damage to the cat. Declawing a dog would do damage as well. Since one may damage a cat, why not a dog? They're not built the same. Do I need to give you an anatomy lesson now, too? Thanks, I'd rather learn from someone who actually knows and understands facts. If they could read properly it would be a plus. ------------------------------------------------- ~kaeli~ Press any key to continue or any other key to quit. Who is General Failure and why is he reading my hard disk? http://www.ipwebdesign.net/wildAtHeart http://www.ipwebdesign.net/kaelisSpace ------------------------------------------------- |
#553
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kaeli wrote:
If training was the answer to declawing, cats wouldn't get declawed either. Yeah, okay. *sigh* Training IS the answer to declawing. Exactly....the only reason cats are declawed in spite of training being the answer is that some people are too lazy to train their cats, or just don't know how. |
#554
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kaeli wrote:
If training was the answer to declawing, cats wouldn't get declawed either. Yeah, okay. *sigh* Training IS the answer to declawing. Exactly....the only reason cats are declawed in spite of training being the answer is that some people are too lazy to train their cats, or just don't know how. |
#555
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Relish wrote:
If I had it to do all over again now that I've been educated? I don't know...... ;-( I'll keep you posted on how he does if you are interested. Now that's not understandable. You just said you didn't know the facts about declawing when you declawed. Now you do. What you did in ignorance is much more forgiveable if you don't repeat the action in the future (or in retrospect, the past). I know what you mean, but I think what she meant is, she doesn't know how she would have handled it, knowing what she knows, but still feeling concerned for the baby, and not knowing how else to deal with the cat's behavior. I mean, I completely agree with you, I don't think declawing is the answer, and wouldn't expect someone to engage in it once they are in possession of the facts, but it sounds like she feels lost as to what options should have been used instead. By the way, Katra, I found some really good articles about cats, including one about aggression towards people, at http://www.catsinternational.org/ (and I know there are others out there). Hopefully, this will help, not only with Shade - who may very well continue to act out, even without his claws - but also if you come across this problem again in future, either with a cat of yours, or with someone you know. All the Best, Ann -- http://www.angelfire.com/ca/bewtifulfreak |
#556
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Relish wrote:
If I had it to do all over again now that I've been educated? I don't know...... ;-( I'll keep you posted on how he does if you are interested. Now that's not understandable. You just said you didn't know the facts about declawing when you declawed. Now you do. What you did in ignorance is much more forgiveable if you don't repeat the action in the future (or in retrospect, the past). I know what you mean, but I think what she meant is, she doesn't know how she would have handled it, knowing what she knows, but still feeling concerned for the baby, and not knowing how else to deal with the cat's behavior. I mean, I completely agree with you, I don't think declawing is the answer, and wouldn't expect someone to engage in it once they are in possession of the facts, but it sounds like she feels lost as to what options should have been used instead. By the way, Katra, I found some really good articles about cats, including one about aggression towards people, at http://www.catsinternational.org/ (and I know there are others out there). Hopefully, this will help, not only with Shade - who may very well continue to act out, even without his claws - but also if you come across this problem again in future, either with a cat of yours, or with someone you know. All the Best, Ann -- http://www.angelfire.com/ca/bewtifulfreak |
#557
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In article ,
Katra wrote: If Shade (aka Booger) had not been given so many chances over the past 2 years of his life, if he had not been REPEATEDLY so aggressive towards anything that disturbed him, and shown a marked jealousy of the baby, the outcome might have been different. All I ask is not forgiveness, but just an understanding of what WE felt we were dealing with, and the fact that we really did not know how badly we were maiming this animal. I have never, ever declawed a cat before. Well, here I am being trolled again. But in case this isn't a fabrication, I'll say yeah. I understand the impulse, the reflex due to shock, that might lead someone to follow a drastic course of action like this. However, I don't understand your need to aggressively defend said course of action. Coming on this newsgroup and saying "Tell me it was OK to declaw this cat" is like saying to a group of animal welfare activists that it's OK to club baby seals. You will never change someone's mind, the best you can do is get them very very worked up and upset about the whole ordeal. Which was apparently your point. Food. Canned food and amount. To date, I've judged the amount of canned food my gang gets by how much they eat. I used to feed 4 cans and they licked the pans clean and went looking for more. I increased it to 5 cans, and now they leave some. The large cans of Whiskas are 21.2 oz. x 5 cans is 106 oz. for 36 cats, comes out to 2.94 oz. per cat. Someone else calculated it earlier and they were way off. ;-) I think they were thinking of the smaller can size... Is this enough? Should I offer canned food twice per day instead of only once? I've already been told I should discontinue the free-fed kibbles. I'm not sure how the cats would feel about that, considering how strongly they let me know about it if I accidentally let the bowls run out. ;-) I like to let the kibble crocks get as low as possible before re-filling to avoid leaving stale food. My cats get about 6 ounces of premium (ie calorie-dense and highly digestible) canned food each per day, or sometimes 3 oz canned and 1/8-1/4 c. kibble. But I don't have 36 cats to feed. If I did I think I'd go to a good yet economical brand of kibble (Sensible Choice comes to mind) and fill the bowl once per day, probably in the evening, with an appropriate amount for the number of cats to be fed. Then once per day I'd feed each animal an individual portion of canned food. Since this will undoubtedly raise your food bill I'd like to offer some unsolicited advice on reducing your vet bill concurrently. By going to the reduced vaccine protocol now followed by vet hospitals (TXA&M, http://www.doglogic.com/vaccinearts.htm; CSU http://www.vth.colostate.edu/vth/savp2.html) and professional organizations (AAFP, http://aafponline.org/about/guidelines.htm) you can cut your cost for vaccines to a third or less. By learning how to do a simple physical at home for your young healthy cats (here from a vet school curriculum http://education.vetmed.vt.edu/Curri...ct/Techniques/ index.htm and here from a pet first aid site http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Con...&S=0&C=0&A=292) you might not even have to bring them in more than every few years. The physical is the most important part of the visit though, and not everyone wants to risk skipping it. In addition spending one-on-one time with each animal will help you to recognize problems early. This might be tough without bringing your "problem cats" in from off the porch. For your older cats I'd do at least one vet visit, preferably two, per year and a basic geriatric blood chemistry profile yearly as well. I'd start that routine at 8-10 years of age. This way you catch problems early and avoid expensive treatments. HTH, Alison in OH |
#558
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In article ,
Katra wrote: If Shade (aka Booger) had not been given so many chances over the past 2 years of his life, if he had not been REPEATEDLY so aggressive towards anything that disturbed him, and shown a marked jealousy of the baby, the outcome might have been different. All I ask is not forgiveness, but just an understanding of what WE felt we were dealing with, and the fact that we really did not know how badly we were maiming this animal. I have never, ever declawed a cat before. Well, here I am being trolled again. But in case this isn't a fabrication, I'll say yeah. I understand the impulse, the reflex due to shock, that might lead someone to follow a drastic course of action like this. However, I don't understand your need to aggressively defend said course of action. Coming on this newsgroup and saying "Tell me it was OK to declaw this cat" is like saying to a group of animal welfare activists that it's OK to club baby seals. You will never change someone's mind, the best you can do is get them very very worked up and upset about the whole ordeal. Which was apparently your point. Food. Canned food and amount. To date, I've judged the amount of canned food my gang gets by how much they eat. I used to feed 4 cans and they licked the pans clean and went looking for more. I increased it to 5 cans, and now they leave some. The large cans of Whiskas are 21.2 oz. x 5 cans is 106 oz. for 36 cats, comes out to 2.94 oz. per cat. Someone else calculated it earlier and they were way off. ;-) I think they were thinking of the smaller can size... Is this enough? Should I offer canned food twice per day instead of only once? I've already been told I should discontinue the free-fed kibbles. I'm not sure how the cats would feel about that, considering how strongly they let me know about it if I accidentally let the bowls run out. ;-) I like to let the kibble crocks get as low as possible before re-filling to avoid leaving stale food. My cats get about 6 ounces of premium (ie calorie-dense and highly digestible) canned food each per day, or sometimes 3 oz canned and 1/8-1/4 c. kibble. But I don't have 36 cats to feed. If I did I think I'd go to a good yet economical brand of kibble (Sensible Choice comes to mind) and fill the bowl once per day, probably in the evening, with an appropriate amount for the number of cats to be fed. Then once per day I'd feed each animal an individual portion of canned food. Since this will undoubtedly raise your food bill I'd like to offer some unsolicited advice on reducing your vet bill concurrently. By going to the reduced vaccine protocol now followed by vet hospitals (TXA&M, http://www.doglogic.com/vaccinearts.htm; CSU http://www.vth.colostate.edu/vth/savp2.html) and professional organizations (AAFP, http://aafponline.org/about/guidelines.htm) you can cut your cost for vaccines to a third or less. By learning how to do a simple physical at home for your young healthy cats (here from a vet school curriculum http://education.vetmed.vt.edu/Curri...ct/Techniques/ index.htm and here from a pet first aid site http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Con...&S=0&C=0&A=292) you might not even have to bring them in more than every few years. The physical is the most important part of the visit though, and not everyone wants to risk skipping it. In addition spending one-on-one time with each animal will help you to recognize problems early. This might be tough without bringing your "problem cats" in from off the porch. For your older cats I'd do at least one vet visit, preferably two, per year and a basic geriatric blood chemistry profile yearly as well. I'd start that routine at 8-10 years of age. This way you catch problems early and avoid expensive treatments. HTH, Alison in OH |
#559
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Katra wrote:
Any comments on the cat feeding thing? I've heard that it's better to feed twice a day, and maybe leave a bit of dry out for them to nibble on in between. Hopefully someone else will be able to verify this or give a more expert opinion. And while it does sound like your experience with animals is a bit unusual/extreme, it does sound like you take very good care of them, and that's the main thing. Ann -- http://www.angelfire.com/ca/bewtifulfreak |
#560
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Katra wrote:
Any comments on the cat feeding thing? I've heard that it's better to feed twice a day, and maybe leave a bit of dry out for them to nibble on in between. Hopefully someone else will be able to verify this or give a more expert opinion. And while it does sound like your experience with animals is a bit unusual/extreme, it does sound like you take very good care of them, and that's the main thing. Ann -- http://www.angelfire.com/ca/bewtifulfreak |
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